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Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
Ice screws, bolt belay at the second pitch.
This is one of the top five routes on the South Fork. From the end of the South Fork Road, it is the obvious, huge, blue flow directly across from the parking lot. Follow the approach description in the Majo Ranch area, and from there, hike directly up hill to this monster. Count on an hour and a half approach time. The first pitch is a double rolled WI3 coming in at roughly 50 meters.. Belay from ice screws. The second pitch is a more sustained, longer, airier (if that is a word) pitch of ice coming in at about 50 meters again. Belay from bolts on the right side, or from screws. The third pitch is a bit more laid back. Belay from screws. A fourth pitch around the corner will lead up into the Pillar of Pain ampitheater.
Rappel the route using v-threads. There has been a tendency to use a tree on climber's right of the second pitch to rappel. Use extreme care getting over to it, as this has been the site of a very unfortunate accident that took two climber's lives. If you