Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Screws, Specters, anchor bolts.
The first three pitches are the approach to Slow Turning. Walk beyong Desperate for Lovin' about another twenty minutes to two short of vertical, but short approach pitches. The first pitch is the obvious ramp in the chimney, which turns right to two steep curtains in the chimney. The ramp can be very thin, offering little room for more than stubbies and spectres. If you go too far right, you will have trouble swinging, since the rock is so close to your head. About halfway up the ramp, start heading to the left. Turn the corner into a short, steep curtain, then to another steep curtain. These two steps can be very chandeliered in a lean year, or fat and steep in a good year. The top of the second can also vary widely. It can either be thin and mixed, or thick and thunker. Two bolts protect the top, on the left, for the second. Hike up the drainage less than fifty yards. This rolling pitch is short, and could be done with a double halved, if necessary. In fat years, an interesting line will come in on the right of the main flow, offering some steeper, and spookier ice. It tops out on a kitty litter slope, and how the ice sticks to this loose stuff is a mystery to me. Belay from two bolts on the left. The third pitch is one roller up, and around the corner from the bolts. It is a rolling, easy, short piece of ice, many can solo up. Belay from one bolt on the right. This is the bottom of Slow Turning. Many more rolling pitches will lead you high, high on the mountain, and are not worth the hike in fat years.
If going above the third, v-threads will be required. If staying below Slow Turning, downclimb, and rappel from bolts. There is usually a v-thread one roller below the first pitch, to rappel the two steepest and longest approach pitches.
Fun day of climbing. Couple of really good pitches with lots and lots of rolling ice. We roped up for the first and second pitches and soloed the rest. there are so many rolling steps that it was hard to clearly define where each pitch begins and ends. Experienced everything from fat ice to soaking wet, chandeliered ice. Bolt anchors were nice, as the ice at the tops of the pitches was too thin for V-threads. Beautiful drainage with lots of interesting climbing. We did not experience any rockfall.