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Grandma's Chicken - WI4

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This route is one of two that lies on the north side of the river. Hike as you are going to High On Boulder. Once you dump into the river bed, continue along the north side for a couple hundred meters. There is a cliff face that runs right into the river bed. From this cliff, start trending up through a dense stand of juniper. There will be a hummock splitting this tiny hanging valley. Going up the right shoulder involves juniper bushwacking, the right side offers painful side hilling, and going directly up offers easier hiking on a small shoulder. Choose your own way around/over this hill. Once you get to the far north end of it, you will notice two drainages. The one on the left, characterized by a tight, dark chimney, is Grandma's Chicken. The first pitch is tight, possibly thin WI2, going up the chimney. The first step of this pitch is about fifteen feet tall. Walk across the ledge, then proceed up about a 25 foot step. Belay from screws, or possibly one of the trees at the top of the second step. Scramble up the chimney for about a rope length, then proceed up the rolling, bulbous slab to an ice screw belay. Many people can solo this pitch. Belay from screws if needed. This will put you at the base of the money pitch. This pitch is a full rope length of WI4 climbing. Usually pillared out, the top is very prone to melting out, as it receives direct sun much of the day. It has been done, albeit with much cursing from the leader, as a mixed climb for the last twenty meters, after melting out. Belay from screws, or a tree. The fourth pitch is a fair hike up the drainage, going over a couple of rollers. This is usually not done.

Descent Options:

Rappel the ice with v-threads and trees.

Submitted by: southforkclimber on 2008-12-28
Views: 242
Route ID: 97487