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Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
This route is one of two that lies on the north side of the river. Hike as you are going to High On Boulder. Once you dump into the river bed, continue along the north side for a couple hundred meters. There is a cliff face that runs right into the river bed. From this cliff, start trending up through a dense stand of juniper. There will be a hummock splitting this tiny hanging valley. Going up the right shoulder involves juniper bushwacking, the right side offers painful side hilling, and going directly up offers easier hiking on a small shoulder. Choose your own way around/over this hill. Once you get to the far north end of it, you will notice two drainages. The one on the right is Smoked Turkey. Climb through several bulges and low angle ice to the base of the first pitch. This pitch is about half a rope length, and can form as a huge, broad shield later in the year, or as a small, dangly, chandoliered curtain early season. Belay from screws. Hike up the drainage a ways to reach the second pitch. This is about a 25 foot tall curtain/"pillar" in a tiny little ampitheater. Belay from screws. In the 2007-2008 season, there was a tantalizing log in the middle of the drainage that was used to belay, but it is not recommended to be used. Ask why. This brings you up to the two third pitches. The left is called the Left Wing, and offers "WI3" climbing through steep, akward bulges at the top to a tree belay. A full sixty meters. The right pitch is called the Drumstick, and is every bit WI5. Usually very textured, very wet, and soft, this pitch is best on cold days. It has been top roped in the past, by climbing the Left Wing, and walking precariously along the edge to some trees at the top. Good luck. This route offers a good, short day, if you are a fast mover.
Rappel the ice from v-threads. The Drumstick and the Left Wing can both be rappelled from trees.