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Spying and Flying - WI4

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Ice Screws.
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This is one of the way out there routes in the Upper Canyon. Hike as per going to High on Boulder, but after crossing the river, pick the South Fork Trail back up, lower your head, and proceed to hike. This climb is about 2 and a half miles up the drainage, give or take. You will cross two drainages before coming to this very noticeable drainage. it is a deep drainage with ice going across it, and vertical ice visible up stream from the trail crossing. You will be above the box on the South Fork River, a very obvious narrowing of the riverbed. The trail goes between the second and third pitches. Rappel down the first two pitches, and proceed climbing back out. The first pitch climbs directly out of the canyon, in a tight slot. It is a full rope stretcher pitch. Belay from a tree, or ice screws. Scramble up the drainage for the second pitch, which would be the first you rappelled over. Climb this curtain and belay from screws. Cross the trail and proceed up drainage to the base of the rolling, often hollow third pitch. Belay from a tree, or ice screws. The forth pitch is the money maker, in my opinion, making the hike worthwhile. Climb easier ice to a vertical section coming in at WI4. Belay from trees or ice screws. This is as far as I have been up this climb, so I will leave the description here.

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Rappel the route from screws and trees.

Submitted by: southforkclimber on 2008-12-28
Views: 314
Route ID: 97488