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South Buttress - 5.6 popular

Average Rating = 4.88/5 Average Rating : 4.88 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (12)
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Rock
Set of nuts, up to yellow BD cam, tricams
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.60/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.83/5

Description:

Great approach up the shoulder with some exposed type 4 friction moves. P1/2/3 (can combine/scramble w/o rope) jamming/stamming up a right facing corner, P4 either do 5.8 on K cracks, or traverse left. Top out with easy scrambling. Can be rapped with one rope.

Submitted by: uasunflower on 2004-09-20
Views: 1825
Route ID: 59774

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12 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: markguycan on 2011-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great rock 5*s

Leisurely start- left camp after 9am. Climbed it as 4 pitches: linked first two- minimal pro placed to diminish drag, then short corner to traverse- easy with great views, then the long dihedral pitch -felt the most difficult, then finished on the "Best 5.6 Ever" left of the K Crack, also did and enjoyed the K Crack but IMHO the 5.6 was more memorable. Late lunch on top, napping in the meadow by mid afternoon. 1 70M easily gets you off, a 60M would work with 2 short easy downclimbs. Rack: set of nuts, single set cams to #3camalot, 6slings.



Added: 2011-09-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: floridaputz on 2011-08-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars K cracks variation

After watching party after party climb this route we decieded to do it. The 2nd pitch is very good and the K crack variation on P 3 is a must.

Added: 2011-08-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: AJones on 2006-08-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars K crack was fun

Short moderate climb. K crack was pretty fun. We climbed this route, went down to camp and packed, hiked out, and drove 20 straight hours to northern Alberta.

Added: 2010-06-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: shrug7 on 2009-09-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun day.

Skipped most of the normal pitches.

P2 did a 5.9 variation (great stemming) and then the left side of the K crack.

Added: 2009-09-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: xjlx on 2009-08-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars South buttress on Pingora

fun route

Added: 2009-08-15

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