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Minor Dihedral - 5.9

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Grade III. Fun route up the large buttress on the left side of Haystack's west face. "Minor" is the rightmost prominent line on this buttress. A right facing dihedral is visible for several pitches on the climb's upper half. Aproach the climb by hiking up and around to a meadow which accesses the climb a couple pitches above the cliff's low point (a direct start is also possible). Traverse 100' left from this meadow on easy ground to reach P1, which follows a thin RF corner topped by 5.9 friction to a small ledge--a nice morning wake-up call! The belay requires smaller gear which you may well have already placed on the pitch. Traverse right and climb RF corners for 200' to another belay stance. Then, make tricky moves down and right for P3 into the main crack/corner system, which is followed from here to the top. The route crux is great stemming on the second pitch up this system. Descend by traversing south (right) along the top of Haystack, then use the "Grassy Goat Trail", a system of 4th class ledges and ramps which angle down and skier's left to the talus.

Submitted by: takeme on 2006-08-17
Views: 533
Route ID: 62149

1 Ascent Recorded

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Onsight Onsight ascent by: takeme on 2004-08-05 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Good route--the long crux pitch corner is really fun. We had one of those "don't fall now or we'll both go" moments (I hope to never have such a moment again) after Chrissy led the first pitch. After the crux, she got in one so-so piece before the belay ledge, then placed a decent 0 tcu, a bad #1 tcu and a bad nut at the belay, as nothing else was available. (Since she's half my size, it seemed unlikely that she'd be able to hold my weight herself). She made me aware of this and so I essentially treated the 5.9 crux move as though I was soloing--I was fully prepared to back down if I didn't feel 100% solid. After climbing up and down a couple times, I felt certain I wouldn't fall, and did the move. Scary!

Witnessed by: Chrissy
Added: 2004-08-05