Grade IV. This is a compelling route on the far right side of Haystack's west face that doesn't seem to get much traffic. Disclaimer: I'm adding the route although we bailed from midway up the crux 6th (of 8) pitch. The Kelsey guide has an excellent topo (unusual for a route that isn't particularly popular, but he did the FA and recommends the route). I would add 2 notes: pitch 2 is more like 10- rather than the 5.7 shown on the topo, and the crux pitch is fantastic--exposed climbing with perfect rock, but what seems to be a finger crack from afar and on the topo is actually a flared overlap and difficult to protect, even with the recommended gear above (much of which I did not have). With that gear and confidence on 5.10, the leader will be all right. The climbing on all pitches was excellent, and I intend to go back to finish the crux pitch and the route (someday--there's so much else to explore in the Winds!).
Submitted by: takeme on 2006-08-27
Route ID: 62148