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This Aint No Disco - 5.4 WI3 M1

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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J. Hattan, C. Hayes
Rock (Trad) Ice Mixed
Good ice pro until halfway, marginal rock pro there to top
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.1
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 1.50/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5


Prominent Y-shaped NW facing couloir in NE cirque of Three Waters Mountain, accessed from Granite Lake. Route follows left side of Y. 40-60 degree alpine ice to the split, then moderate mixed rock, ice and snow to top.

Descent Options:

Descend via the summit plateau to the western slopes of Three Waters, effectively traversing the mountain. Also a traverse around the rim of the cirque provides a steeper but more direct route back to Granite Lake.

Submitted by: chayes on 2007-11-06
Views: 434
Route ID: 90500

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.1 F
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: william1957 on 2009-03-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars split mountain

I did a solo climb of this route about 15 years a go. I had just walk over 100 miles with an ice axe that i had rented in jackson. It was late august late in the after noon. I droped my pack at the bottom. wore only a tee shirt. I was able to kick steps in the snow The whole length of the route. It was the last time that I ever went climbing. I have no idea how to rate it

Added: 2009-03-04

  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: chayes on 2006-10-06 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars FA?

Not too sure if this is a FA or not, could't find any info to indicate it isn't. Early season snow covered much of the route with 6-12" fresh on old glacier ice and broken rock. First few pitches climbed unroped up ~45 degree ice to base of large buttress, began roped 50-60 degree narrowing ice until it thinned to broken rock. Continued roped until halfway up left finger of couloir, unroped and simul-climbed loose broken rock because of complete lack of reliable pro and impending darkness to the top. Would recommend EARLY start as the right finger of this thing seemed to be intent on dropping large rocks once the sun hit it. Definitely don't want to be below the split midday.

Added: 2007-11-06