Just north of Pronghorn's unclimbed East face -- and if that thing doesn't make your
knees buckle, you are certifiably insane -- is a 1000' tall ridge, site of this climb.
Follow a spine above Donna Lake to the base (3rd class),
then start up dark green rock on the triangular NE face.
The route-finding is difficult, the ledges mossy, and the
rock horrible -- good luck finding anything resembling
a reliable hold. The idea is to gain the ridge after about
two pitches -- but not too early, as the bottom of the
ridge is steep & roofy. We wound up in a shallow
LF dihedral that was manky, cold, and completely
terrifying, and also 5.10ish. Three resident nuts in the
corner indicated we were not the first idiots to go that way.
The ridge itself is quite sunny, excellent pink granite, but
almost too easy (5.5) considering the horror of the lower pitches.
About 7 long ropelengths get you to the summit. Descent stinks: hop over frost-shattered talus for a mile either direction; easy (but hard to locate) gullys will bring you to Monkeyflower Dome's shoulder, or hump the loooong path around Dragon's Head. Most gullys along this ridge look like certain death as descent routes.
Submitted by: timmet on 2002-08-11
Route ID: 21990