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Routes : North America : United States : Wyoming : Western Wy. : Wind River : Middle Fork Lake : Pronghorn Peak -- Antelope Arete

Pronghorn Peak -- Antelope Arete - 5.8

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Just north of Pronghorn's unclimbed East face -- and if that thing doesn't make your knees buckle, you are certifiably insane -- is a 1000' tall ridge, site of this climb. Follow a spine above Donna Lake to the base (3rd class), then start up dark green rock on the triangular NE face. The route-finding is difficult, the ledges mossy, and the rock horrible -- good luck finding anything resembling a reliable hold. The idea is to gain the ridge after about two pitches -- but not too early, as the bottom of the ridge is steep & roofy. We wound up in a shallow LF dihedral that was manky, cold, and completely terrifying, and also 5.10ish. Three resident nuts in the corner indicated we were not the first idiots to go that way. The ridge itself is quite sunny, excellent pink granite, but almost too easy (5.5) considering the horror of the lower pitches. About 7 long ropelengths get you to the summit. Descent stinks: hop over frost-shattered talus for a mile either direction; easy (but hard to locate) gullys will bring you to Monkeyflower Dome's shoulder, or hump the loooong path around Dragon's Head. Most gullys along this ridge look like certain death as descent routes.

Submitted by: timmet on 2002-08-11
Views: 1225
Route ID: 21990