Found on the N face of El Tonto, this classic two-pitch line begins on a large platform that must be reached by a steep section of scrambling. Many rope up for this approach - a very good idea. The route is easily identifiable by its large roof that caps an open dihedral. P1: blast up the dihedral until you reach a clear, diagonal crack on a roof that traverses out left. You will not be turning the largest roof directly above you. However, traversing the roof left is exciting to say the least. Belay at a bolted anchor 3m above the roof. P2: sparse protection on this steep, 5+ slab. Some bolts, some thin cams - definitely be solid at the grade. Descent is an easy walkoff NW back to the base. Five-star climb (pictured at right).
Submitted by: le_bruce on 2006-05-31
Route ID: 66401