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Eliseu Frechou, Marcio Bruno, Fernando Leal
3 sets of Friends, camalots, nuts, hooks...
After 12 days on the wall of Monte Roraima, Márcio Bruno, Fernando Leal and Eliseu Frechou achieved the first ascent of a new route on Monte Roraima by the Guiana’s side.
The trio reached the wall by helicopter, starting from the Santa Elena Uiarén in Venezuela, in a 50 minutes flight. The landing was in a 4x5m block, just below the highest waterfall in the mountain. As the waterfall did not have much wather at the time, it was possible to arrive the climbers and equipments- without the helicopter landing. It is believed that this is one of the few possible landing points in the region of The Proa.
The first part of the route is full of vegetation and loose blocks. Only after 150 meters the quality of the rock improvement and rock climbing becomes more enjoyable. The stone is quartzite and offers many cracks for protection. There are many possible plateaus for bivac, but most on the positive side where it rains and drips a lot. Spiders and scorpions also deserve attention because they are found even in the most vertical places.
The climb was interrupted on the fifth day by reason of a storm that forced the group to get stuck in a ledge of 4 square meters for the next 4 days.
The route is called Guerra de Luz e Trevas (war between light and darkness), and the degree is suggested VI 5.11a A3 J4 / 650m.
The first ascent of these mountain by the side of Guiana was made by the legendary british climbers Joe Brown and Don Whillans, in 1973, when, accompanied by Mo Anthoine and Hamish MacInnes climbed the mountain. Two other expeditions opened U.S. routes in the region in 2003 and 2006, Cutting the edge and Scorpion wall.
No way. The route is steepest.
Submitted by: frechou on 2010-02-07
Route ID: 103480