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Normal- Point of decision route - 5.7

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rusty old steel cables tied to trees and bolted.
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Drive through Glicerio and continue on until the fork of Tapera and Frade. Take the Tapera fork and climb the mountain(driving). Just before reaching the top, park your car at the turnout and climb up the rocky road to your right. Walk 5 minutes up the road and descend down the other side. Walk 60 meters down hill then turn right and start climbing up the grassy hill. (Fence climbing alongside you on your right) Find the trail and switchback up into the forest. After 45 minutes, level out on the ridge and start walking left towards the peak. Another 1-1.5 hours you will be on the final approach to the peak. Use the steel cables on the lower flanks to pull yourself up through the forest. Use a rope and gear when you arrive at the clean, 15 foot rock cliff. (the cable is tied to a bush) Continue on and arrive at "point of decision", where the rock gets steeper as does the exposure. Continue on using your rope or the steel cables until you reach the summit 100 meters up. Sign the summit log and rappel back down. Bring a 60m rope, some quickdraws and friends, and an 8 to rappel down. great views and good exposure.(leave your good judgement at home)

Submitted by: indamtnsbj on 2002-08-18
Views: 763
Route ID: 21824

1 Ascent Recorded

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Onsight Onsight ascent by: indamtnsbj on 2001-07-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Talia and I tried to climb this nasty peak by just showing up and bushwacking through the jungle.(bad idea..) After a full day of trying to find something of a trail, we retreated and went into Trapeche. We found a local who knew the route, but we stopped when we got to the "rusty, thin steel cables tied to trees" part.
We went back with the right gear and knocked that baby out. A nice adventure into the Brazilian highlands.

Witnessed by: A bunch of Brazilians!
Added: 2001-07-08