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Espalon - 5.6

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
Standard rack up to BD #4, depending on which variation is done. Mostly tat anchors.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)


Approach: From the point where you reach the base of the cliffs that are on the left (facing toward the road), there is a tall, broken, low-angle face up to the right that is facing the stream. Head up to the base of that and scramble up right to the alcove at the base of a left-facing corner. Pitch One (5.5) - 60 feet: Climb the left-facing corner and low-angle slab to the top of the crack and a boulder. Step right over the boulder to a nice ledge with a tat around a boulder on top. Pitch Two (5.6) - 130 feet: Climb straight up toward the large overhang / small roof, clearing it on the right (though the left looks fairly straight-forward, too). There may be multiple tat stations before and after the roof, but the easiest one to work from is slightly left of the roof where there are two old pins. Pitch Three (5.6) - 140 feet: Head straight up, follwing the path of least resistance to a fairly comfortable belay off to the left just below easy terrain on broken rock and what appears to be the summit from below. Pitch Four (5.7) - 135 feet: Climb up over the broken rock to an easy walk for about 40 feet to a small offwidth / wide crack. Climbing the offwidth is the crux. I personally climbed the sketchy crack to the left after making the exposed step across. The sketchy crack was actually pretty easy despite the gear not feeling 100% secure. Rope drag can be an issue with this pitch.

Descent Options:

Do an easier-than-it-looks downclimb to the climber's right and slide down the loose gravel to the base. The walk down is pretty easy, but one should take care to not knock loose rocks down on parties below.

Submitted by: Gmburns2000 on 2011-01-09
Views: 1663
Route ID: 107657

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1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Gmburns2000 on 2011-01-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Espalon

Supposedly 5.7, but felt easier. Lots of variations, but be aware of loose rock. Would be G-rated if not for potential rock fall.

Added: 2011-01-09