Rockclimbing | Gear Reviews | Shoes

Anasazi VCS

Fri, 01 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - I completely agree with everything said prior, this shoe destroys everything. There are just a few things that I would like to add: First is that I have a medium to high-volume foot and this shoe fits me just fine. Second is that something is either different in the sizing of our street shoes, or we just have different fit ideas. I wear a ten street shoe in everything; nike, brooks, saucony, mizuno, five ten, but for my VCS's I down-sized two sizes. A size 8 seems perfect for me, I can wear them for 15-20 minutes at a time if I want to without any excesssive pain. I'd say that the stretch is around a quarter of a size, very minimal indeed. Definetly a re-soler, just try them on before ordering.

Bandit

Thu, 07 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - I just retired my year-old bandit with 2 gaping holes on the toes just this weekend after sliding off a slab problem (granite wall, no less)made me realize that there�s an end to all things good. This is my ode for this incredible climbing partner. This is a stiff shoe so it provides good support, esp. in the midarch but for new climbers this translates to painful tight fit. Now that I�ve climbed for a year, this tight fit translates to precision edging and just awesome support. I really, really like how surgical this shoe feels, I can slip the pointy rand in virtually any crack, ledge, micro edges, crystal, shelf, hold, you name it and it�ll stick. Oftentimes in desperation I�d just jam the bottom sole into the wall and voila�it sticks. Amazing rubber. My rand (toe) blew at around the 11th month. I climb 3x / wk at gym and 1 x outdoors on big walls. This shoe feels a half size smaller than the stated size. I wear street size 9.5 and I got the bandit at same 9.5, but was tortured for the first 3 mos. My toes were curled and extremely jammed, which resulted in me taking it off on routes longer than 5 mins and under heat. It doesn�t stretch, although the shoe will mold your feet like 2nd skin after enough sweating. Buy half size bigger if you�re new and buy street size if you want performance. This shoe is rated intermediate climbing.

Cliff

Sun, 03 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - It's a great shoe.....i wish it was a little more aggressive but the fit stretches perfect and really fits well....i just wish my left foot was a little smaller!

Miura

Tue, 05 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - This shoe is super comfy but still performs remarkably. Without doubt the best shoe I've used.

Ninja - improved

Thu, 07 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - These are great shoes, the ruber is super adhesive, very flexible and helps a lot with friction. Also are very confortable and could be weared all day long. The new ruber on the top helps you so much with overhangings and roofs. Easy to get in and out. A must have product.

Rock & Resole

Wed, 06 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Pretty much says it all. I hand-delivered Monday morning, and had both pairs this noon (Wednesday). Paid just under $26 each (includes local tax) for half-soles using C4. Pleasant owner, nice workmanship. I'll definitely be back.

Testarossa

Wed, 06 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - I've been really pleased with these shoes since I bought them. For gym climbing and limited outdoor they've been awesome, really helped me achieve some climbs that I could not have done before without their awesome edging and lots of stick on heel hooks. I love overhangs and these have performed awesomely (if only my muscles were so reliable).

Only three minor issues. Stretch is moderate and not helped by sweaty feet. They suck to pull on and off, especially outside. And I've got ugly calluses on my big toes from the toe of the shoe - yes, I know, purely a cosmetic issue.