Rockclimbing.com | Routes | North America

Corner Crack ( 5.7 )

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Easy trad route in the left corner of the ampitheater. Follow crack for protection and use rock at top for anchoring.

Slab-a-licious 5.9+ ( 5.9 )

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

This climb is on the face to the left of Jake Said Ouch near the corner. A tricky start which leads you to a funky chicken head and finger pocket love for the crux moves, and then it's beautifully featured rock with mega bomber holds that you wish you could climb for another 90 feet....but nope...you are at the chains.

Above the Crowds ( V0 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

This will be the first boulder you encounter as you approach the area. Its located about 50 feet right of the trail and not visible from the trail. Please tread lightly past plant life to make your way to this boulder.

Bottom right start, move left over the corner on good holds.

Above the Crowds ( V0 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

All That Jazz ( 5.8 )

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

This climb is shown in Handren's Guide as "Geriatric Therapy 2a Variation" It is a fun climb, but the walk off is confusing. Go West until you are pretty much straight across from Cut Your Teeth Crag and you will be at the correct gully to go down.
The first pitch was originally put up by Mark Limage and it consisted of 3 bolts and a bolted anchor. We added a new first bolt (with Mark's permission) to make the start a little less intimidating for climbers leading at this grade. Thanks Mark.

P1: (5.7) Climb the bolted face to the second anchor. Use the first to clip a draw but continue literally 10' left and 15' higher to the second anchor for the belay. This is a really comfy ledge, be careful not to get complacent and forget you are about 60' up. (60')

The second anchor was placed by Chris Burton and Mike Burton (not related) for a single pitch route called "Greek Tragedy." This climb ascends the shallow ramp to the left (east) of the direct start for the first pitch of All that, Jazz. Looks like it takes small gear. Thanks for the information Chris!

P2: (5.8) Trend 10' right to gain the shallow, left-facing corner/crack. Place gear as you like in the crack using long slings to prevent drag. Use the ample face features and crack to stem, lie-back, and smear your way up. When the crack ends, look for a bolt up and to the left. Traverse to the bolt (if it seems too high, look for feet) and then continue left to the crux, a short, dead-vertical headwall that will "go" easily to some really fun moves! There is a protection bolt smack in the center of the headwall to protect these moves. Pull the headwall to a bolted anchor and a reasonable, slabby ledge. (110') T

P2 Option: (5.8) If you have time, rap or lower back to the first station after the your second cleans the pitch and top rope straight up the face back to the second anchor - fun climbing that adds another 110' to the day!

P:3 (5.6) Step off left and make a few moves on the solid-varnished vertical face to a single bolt (the only one on this pitch) about 8 feet off the belay. Continue straight up this face as it slabs off and becomes easier. Place gear as you like in ample horizontals and try to stay to the left in the black varnish. Trending right leads to climbable terrain but the rock quality is not as good and the placements will be fewer and more questionable! Watch rope drag as you move higher on the slab. There is a bolted anchor at the top, no rings or links. (110')

We took our time, placed plenty of gear, sat on the top in the sun for a while, stopped for photos and the route took us about 2 hours pack-to-pack.

Location

See the general description. The thumb-like feature stands out and easily identifies the start of this route. Approach time is a casual 20 minutes.

One of the best things about the route is it has a walk off - a really easy walk off! After topping out, walk up the ramp to the left toward an obvious tree. Then cut sharply right and walk along the ridge line - there are some cairns, but they seem to lead everywhere and nowhere at the same time. The trick is this, as you walk west along the ridge, always try to trend to the right (toward the "U" notch or saddle and away from the park). You will have to trend left toward the park and then back toward the saddle a couple of times but ultimately, you will end up in the saddle gully. Until you know the descent, you will find this a little confusing, however trending right will ultimately lead you right to the easy gully where you can turn sharply right again and hike back to your pack in about 5 minutes.
If you use this "always right" method, the correct descent NEVER gets dangerous or exposed. You will come to areas that are both, when this happens, backtrack, go to the left to easier terrain and start trending right again as soon as possible. You will know you are close when you go down into a gully and see a huge solitary boulder leaning across a two-level slab. If you walk past this boulder and turn around to look at it, it has two rectangular holes in it and you can see it is practically hollow inside. These two "eyes" look in the direction you want to go in. Continue down where you will see two big boulders in the gully. Go under the first and under or over the second. Total descent time is about 20 minutes.

If you have time, when you come out of the descent gully, go west toward the saddle and Cut Your Teeth crag (literally minutes away) and climb November Daze (5.7 100') and September Knights (5.9 85')!

Apache Prizefighter ( 5.12a )

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Drive past picnic parking area and stop on the left before crossing the creek (@ 100 yds). Look south up the ridge to a NE facing small wall. Two cracks split the face. This is the right one. An overhung hand crack, first four feet are choss, that pinches off to tips. Then two bolts guard the zig zag to the mantle.

Boy Scout ( 5.7 )

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

This climb has shared anchors with the cub scout, and it starts in the same position under the flake. Trend right up the large flake to some smaller flakey holds, then move up to find some hidden bombers near the top.

Cling to the Present ( V0 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Sit start on lower left edge, reach for great rails to top out. Head straight into the dense rock field from Ying/Yang.

Crossing the Line ( 5.13a )

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Very manufactured, but very good. Sustained power-endurance.

Dig it ( 5.8 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

This is the obvious corner crack between the 2 arete's left of doc holiday... Going left at the overhang is a 5.8, straight up turns this into a 10b I'd guess...

Diogenes Posture ( V3 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Start far left over a big ledge traversing and heel hooking to the right, throw for great holds to top out on far right. Same boulder as Cling to the Present.

EZ Edge ( V1 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Follow the outside edge and bump out right towards the top for finishing moves. The most northern boulder up hill, pointy top.

Floating Monk ( V1 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Beautifully spaced two and three finger holds work up the middle of the boulder. Boulder next to Zen Steps.

Granola Sucks ( V1 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Sit start on undercling and follow the left corner up to finish. You can see this problem approaching the area on the left side.

High Vibes ( V1 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Many variations, Very balancy. Opposite of Floating Monk.

Hoedown ( 5.8 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

This is the Arete' on the left near Doc Holiday and wiswig. Up the ar�te to where it steepens. Move left to a stance, then back right to a crack on the ar�te. Continue up the ar�te to a fixed anchor at the top. 70'

incognito ( 5.9 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

This is the arete on the right near wiswig and doc holiday... Follow the arete up, past a slight overhang, traverse right, then up to anchors...

Invisible Ladder ( V0 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Start in lower right corner, follow diagonally up to the left, same top out as Lucky Streak.

Irene's Traverse ( V0 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Start on right side, gym like holds with good feet. Just opposite of Socrates Dilemma.

Kickstand(aka Tinkerbell) ( V0 )

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Sit start a rock at the corner furthest from the fire pit. Work some laybacks and maybe a little crimp at the start and top out by going over the pinnacle of the rock. A fun problem to practice keeping your arms extended and staying positive on something slightly overhung. Don't cheat on the sit start by using the ground or not sitting completely down on the rock first. A sit start means you sit on your butt, not one foot.

Lazy Day ( V2 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Start on the same left ledge as Diogenes Posture, match on the triangular in cut hold to the right then reach up for a big sloper.

Lucky Streak ( V0 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Great holds, solid footing from start to finish. Add a matching sit start for variation. Just right of Natural Showmanship.

Mr. Pink Eye Low ( V3 )

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

The lower start to Mr. Pink eye, instead of jumping onto the high hold start on the slopey left hand/ right hand crimp directly below the high start. Get your feet on and then clime straight up.

Natural Showmanship ( V2 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

A highball chalked full of crimps, palming and smearing, many variations are possible and an extra pad and spotter helps the confidence. Biggest boulder in the area, this climb faces the trail.

Now What ( 5.7 )

Tue, 21 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

This is very accessible trad route that is superb for the introductory trad climber. The route hosts two variations that are technically straight forward and easy to protect. From GooseBerry Gully walk north. Pass The Dead Zone area and enter The Big Section. You will make a slight turn left. The numbers 19A and 19B will be painted in yellow on the rock. These markings simply denote different starts to the route. Both variations are 5.7 and converge at a roof, of which a crack bisects. Pull the roof and traverse right at 1 O'clock to the wrap station.

Overboard ( 5.8 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

shares the first bolt with walk the plank, 5.6, but continues straight up for some fun climbing.

Philosophers Stone ( V1 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Matching sit start on bottom left corner, it's bumping heaven from there. Other side of Cling to the Present.

Shaolin Pump ( V4 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Begin on a good open right handed pinch style hold and a high left hold on an in cut crimp, move up left, reach over the lip for solid crimpers, take a deep breath and step over the lip, smearing onto a smooth face for the top out. This problem is up hill from Cling to the Present and recessed in the ground.

Sippin on Ginseng ( V2 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

On same boulder as Above the Crowds. Pumpy sit start off a matching right angled hold, solid, steady moves to top out.

Sliced Lotus ( V0 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Same sit start as Zen Steps but bumps straight up over an obvious ledge to finish.

Smokey ( 5.10b )

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Clip and go right for the aretenext to U Sure?.

Socrates Dilemma ( V3 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Sit start with a nice right handed jug and left hand on crimpy feature, lunge up to a high left crimper, controlled static moves make this problem flow better. Left corner of Philosophers Stone.

The Crack of John ( 5.3 V0 )

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Climb the obvious off-width crack to a tricky top out feeling top out.

The Horror ( 5.10a )

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

First route on the left side of the crag climbs through small bulge and shares anchors with Blue Bird to its right.

Tits Up ( 5.7 )

Tue, 21 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

This is yet another, classic Mt. Nemo technically straight forward, accessible and easy to protect route for the introductory trad climber. Heck, everyone should climb it. It is just plain fun. From GooseBerry Gully walk north. Pass The Dead Zone. You will come to a left facing corner that rises approximately 4 meters. Atop the left facing corner is a crack the ascends the majority of the face. A small overhang sits atop the crack. The route is marked with a yellow '16D.' The original name of the route is unknown and so we arbitrarily gave it its present name.

Trail Loot ( V0 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

This traverse starts hanging upside down on lower right ledge, lots of heel hooking play, ending with a high left bomber hold to top out. Opposite of Natural Showmanship.

Two Step ( V0 )

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Start on the face near the right hand corner of the John Boulder...No using the corner on this one until you get to the very last hold, then you kind of need to. When I cleaned this problem I wanted to maintain some of the moss at the top for the hikers that frequent the area.

U sure? ( 5.3 )

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

First crack you come to off 68. Somewhat dry depending on the season.

Weight of the Rai ( V3 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

I won't give too much away on this problem. It is a sit start that moves into a slight overhang with sloped holds. (crux near bottom) Just below Invisible Ladder.

Windy Owl ( 5.8 )

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Easy route up right corner crack that heads straight up to top. Watch out for owls nest in the middle of the route about 150 ft up.

Ying ( V0 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Sit start on this little boulder and enjoy a 3 to 5 move climb. Ying is about 160ft west from Above the Crowds boulder, about 60ft off the right side of the trail.

Ying ( V0 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Sit start on this little boulder and enjoy a 3 to 5 move climb. Ying is about 160ft west from Above the Crowds boulderl.

Young Grasshopper ( V0 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Sit start to two bench size ledges, good warm up. Same boulder as Sliced Lotus.

Zen Steps ( V1 )

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Sit start on crimpy holds and bump through the first few moves, the features get bigger and further apart as you go. This problem is about 22 feet east of the Natural Showmanship boulder.

Blue Bird ( 5.10a )

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Second route in from the start of the crag. Low first bolt, follows nice holds to a shared anchor with The Horror.

Toxic ( 5.11a )

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Crux start on angled edges.

Black Scar ( 5.11b )

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

A couple hard and long pulls to start before jogging right and then back left before the shared anchor with Toxic.

Freerange McHam ( 5.9 )

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

This route lies 20' left of Green Eggs and Ham (the obvious right facing book) and offers fun steep face.

Highway Twenty-One ( 5.10a )

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Pass a couple bolts to a nice bulge. Jog left and head to the anchors left of a black water streak.

Business District ( 5.11b )

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Start at the base of a blank face with a left trending ramp. Crux moves to a ledge where it joins Original Route to the shared anchor.

Unk ( 5.10a )

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

This route ascends the arete left of "Green Eggs and Ham" (the obvious right facing book). A tricky move gets you to a bolt then cool and easier face to a two bolt belay shared with "Freerange McHam"