Rockclimbing | Routes | North America

bear territory ( V3 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

before you get to the waterfall. there is a group of boulders leading into a cave. this problem is in the cave on the south side. its overhung, very very fun. the last couple moves involve you crawling out through a little ceiling tunnel.

Tomorrow is Today ( 5.12b )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Right hand line of bolts up the green face.

Antonian ( 5.9 )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Climb the dihedral to the left leaning crack

Arete V1 ( V1 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Just left of Pocket Slab.

Arete V3 ( V3 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This on the opposite side of the boulder from K. Start low on edge and arete.

Arm Forces ( 5.13a )

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

To the right of Ron Kauk Gets a Perm

Authenic Life ( 5.10b A1 )

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

start from the notch between J-head and the eastern tower. Approach from either Jordan Road TH or Soldiers Pass TH, hike toward Cibola pass then up wash and slick rock

P1: 5.10 TRAVERSE!!! about 100ft past a gear placements and bolts to a nice ledge.
P2: 5.10 CRACK!!! clip a bolt and head up steep finger and hand crack, passing a bad bolt (plan to replace) to a ledge atop the column.
P3: 5.10,C1 STEEP!!! 4th class up slab to ledge then climb face on huecos, clip bolt, then thin fingers and edges past bulge to summit. (will probably go free at 5.12)

Better Than Mecca ( 5.9 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start in a V-shaped crack to a small roof. Short layback leads a wide vertical crack, then hands and fingers to the top.

Bombers Delight ( 5.8 )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This climb is along the same rock face as Six Crack but much further left. (left if you are facing the cliff) I named this climb Bombers Delight because of the many great holds on this route. You can climb either left or right of the crack or even the crack itself. Theres easy access to the top and plenty of trees to tie off on. In addition to this climb it looks like there would be a few more good ones just to the right on this climb. Pics will be added soon.

Catch and Release ( 5.11d )

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start on the arete to the right of Piranha and continue up the face to the ledge at the top.

Class act ( 5.11b )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This is the bolted route that starts at the top of the center route. The start is a bit tough to protect--I used green and yellow aliens in the thin crack. Above this, the bolts are widely spaced. Arete and face climbing.

Cold Fusion ( V3 )

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Climb the arete.

Corner ( V4 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

The leftmost problem on the Roadside Boulder. From undercling move to pockets and mantle.

Daisy ( 5.9 )

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

The steep broken crack on the far right side of the wall.

Dream On ( 5.12c )

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

great route with a hard little crux

Dwarf ( V5 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Right of the Roadside Boulder is this short problem. Start low on solid edge and move to slopers on lip.

Eagles Wing ( 5.4 )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This climb is more toward the begining of the cliff line. If you look up you should see a rock that looks like a gaints eagles head. Now look for the rock that looks like its wing (the wing will run left if you are facing the cliff) at the vary tip of the wing (going away from the head) is a chimney that runs almost all the way up the cliff. For an east climb you can do the chimney or for something a little harder go left. I started out on the chimney then went left about 6 feet off the ground. Eigher way its a pretty easy climb. Lots of holds with some great bombers but in some areas you will only be able to grip the rock with your fingers. I almost dismised this climb as to easy but decided to do it since I had my nine your old son along and he wanted to have a go. It was much better than I expected, and I'd highly recommend it for novice climbers or those just wanting to have some great fun. The only problem here was setting up the runners, your going to need some long ones as the nearest trees are about 11 feet back. There are two trees the literally hang on the edge but I was not about to tie off on those.

Gased On This ( V6 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Just right of Dwarf. Start in jug and high gaston. Power up to slopers on the lip and mantle.

Gill Traverse ( V3 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

The highball face behind Arete V3. Start in the crack and traverse up and right. Also known as "Southern Exposure".

Green Bean ( V4 )

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Sit Start on the lower left corner of 'The Green Jug' usings right hand crimp and left hand arete. Move right hand to the nexts crimp and left hand to pinch on arete then up to the Green Jug to finish.

Hugh Keenly Corner ( 5.10c )

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

climb the never ending right facing corner. Jam & layback. Bring everything.

K ( V1 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Right of Pocket Slab. Climb the arete making use of the massive pinch.

Mossy Demise ( 5.10a )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Almost at the vary end of this cliff line just before the clift face changes a sharp corner the disappears into the hill. Its the last chimney you'll come to. Don't climb the chimley just head up the left hand side. Theirs small out cropping that you have to get over toward the begining of the climb. This climb has some good bomber holds, but there are just as many places where you only have finger holds. Theres also some wet moss growing rock in places. The several feet of this climb is a bit hard.

Nervous Breakdown ( 5.11b )

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

First climb right of Giardia. Broken start to easy roof into sustained crack/corner climbing which gets progressively more difficult. Ends at an anchor shared with Giardia.

Northern Pike ( 5.11a )

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

On the Mothership Wall. Start on the first 2 bolts of Fight Club, then go left around the arete and up some interesting and different from the usual Gorge fare climbing.

Out To Launch ( V3 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

From the top of Matt's Sloper Problem. Jump across the gap to the two slopers at the top of OBD Traverse.

Pocket Slab ( V0 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Right of the arete facing the creek on the obvious square boulder.

Quarry Ice Flows ( WI3 M1 )

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

To the climbers right of what is being called Mertz Perch (Emlenton Quarry) is two ice flows.

Queen of Hearts ( 5.12c )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

A nice long route that pulls several roofs. Lots of fun climbing in between good rests.

Ruptured (Stretch Armstrong) ( 5.11d )

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

sport line to the left of Team Jesus. If you are under 6 ft you will understand the meaning of the route's surname, "Stretch Armstrong". Great technical climbing.

Sign Route (Daniel's Variation) ( 5.10c )

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Climb the first part of "Hard-up" until you reach the high left
anchor with webbing hanging on it. From there, follow a pair of
diagonal cracks up the face know as the "Sign Route". In the middle
of the face, there is a large chunk gone visible from the ground.
Here, place a few pieces and run it out straight up the face over a
bulge. You'll make several tough moves and then move up 5.6 to 5.7ish
terrain passing a horizontal crack that takes gear and ending up on a
ledge with a small tree with a crack behind it. From here, the
climbing isn't so great, but not difficult to finish if you can find a
line with decent pro.

Skunkape Stem ( V5 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start with a palm and a gaston and then go right into stretch armstrong. finish on bobs knobs same way.

Strawberry Jam ( 5.3 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Left side Smorgasbord Wall, wide, left-leaning fissure.

The Leaning Tower ( V3 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

One of castles best on good rock as well. May be slightly sandy but very very good. stand start on the rock with opposing sidepulls and bear hug your way with heelhooks to the top. Classic

The Sweepings ( 5.10a )

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This contrived route begins right of a large crack between Flesh Tuxedo and Richter Scale. Meander between the crack and a large pillar. The path of least resistance could leave you swinging into some unpleasantness if you fell. Even if it cleaned up this route is not interesting at all.

The Tall Bastard ( V8 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start on the rib cage/spinal cage and go out left and finish straight up the blunt arete. aka the drunken master

The Yert Yak Crack ( 5.9 )

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Overhanging dihedral with a hand crack in the back.

Tomb Raider Roof (stand start) ( 5.1 V5 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

stand start to Tomb Raider Roof, beginning on obvious jug.

Unknown ( V4 )

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

To the right of Begnaud is a low shelf with multiple holds. SDS here and move to crimpers, then to top.

Which Witch ( 5.8 )

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

One of the rightmost routes on the face (the rightmost?). A 5.8 move at the start leads to easier, mostly unenjoyable climbing.

Cure For Pain ( 5.10c )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

10b from 5' off the ground to 5' before the anchors.

dick and harry ( 5.10c )

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

steep, juggy start to reachy moves pulling the lip.
left of tom.

French Toast ( 5.8 )

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

65'. Just inside the House on west (right) wall. Starts roughly right above where you enter the House. Now a sport climb. Climb up face w/ large finger pocket then veer right out from under rock to upper thin face.

No. 5 ( 5.10d )

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

first route, so far, on the mouse wall trail.
blunt arete, steep at the bottom.

pendulum ( 5.13b )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

First 25 feet are over hang and very hard. I recommend top roping it but that's easier said than done.
Assuming you top rope it your going to pendulum a lot, but theirs a good tree for belay.

South Crack ( 5.6 )

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Starts up relatively easy east facing chimney to top of sundeck boulder. Climb the crack to the right. The crux is getting past the bulge. It is possible to clip some ratty slings that were wrapped around the chock stone to surpass this section. 2nd and 3rd pitch can be combined on the way up.

Tom ( 5.8 )

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

casual, blocky start to open book corner for your stemming approval.
left of tom.

Pinnacle jump ( 5.8 )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Fun climb relatively easy and amazing view at the top, bring a camera if your into photography.

Senior Daredevil ( 5.9 )

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Face.

Route info credited to "Bishop Area Rock Climbs, 3rd Edition" by Peter Croft and Marty Lewis. Awesome book guys!

Biohazard ( 5.10a )

Tue, 24 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Excellent variety of climbing up crack into a sustained corner crack with an anchor at finish.

Doin' Time ( 5.11a )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Right of the S Crack. 4 Bolts, 2 Bolt Anchor.

Sweet Poison ( 5.10a )

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Looks like a few small foot holds have been broken off at the start. Now I'd say the start is 10b if you stay true to book and start up the true face to the left. If you use the crack/ramp, I'd say that is 10a.

Route info credited to "Bishop Area Rock Climbs, 3rd Edition" by Peter Croft and Marty Lewis. Awesome book guys!

The Moose ( 5.10a )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

nice

Bird of Prey ( 5.11c )

Tue, 24 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

On the Mothership Wall.

Start with the first 2 bolts of Catch and Release and continue up the north-facing wall near the arete and past a thin crack.

green dragon ( 5.10b )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

this route is ten feet left of gumbys gully climb up through a large roof then pull your way through the green moss

route beer ( 5.8 )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

this rout is twenty feet left of harmony crack climb the face to a large gully then right of the gully up a small crack good top out

Third World Lover ( 5.11c )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This route is located about 10 feet right of Relaxed Atmosphere. It is the rightmost route on this wall. Begin far left of the first bolt and gun through a sequential traverse on surprisingly not so good holds. Crank up and over the lip and relax on easier ground to the anchors. 5.11c in the guidebook, voted 5.11d at redriverclimbing.com

Fred's Line ( )

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Absolute right end of Tufa City.

Diversity in Microcosm ( 5.9 )

Tue, 24 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Short route up crack to a chimney to a short traverse to the anchors. Protects well and is fun despite its short length.

Slip 'n Slide ( 5.6 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Climb the offwidth crack at the right edge of the wall which makes up the right side of the wall of the Corn Flakes Buttress

Rebel Rabble ( 5.9 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This route is located next to the buttress to the right of Corn Flakes Buttress. Ascend the thin face on the sort wall facing the Corn Flakes Buttress

Heart Ache ( 5.7 )

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

The formation to the right of the Challenger Buttress features a double crack system divided by a large oak tree growing into the cliff. Climb the left crack, avoiding any contact with the tree at the base of the route