Rockclimbing | Routes | North America/United States/Colorado

Class act ( 5.11b )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This is the bolted route that starts at the top of the center route. The start is a bit tough to protect--I used green and yellow aliens in the thin crack. Above this, the bolts are widely spaced. Arete and face climbing.

The Sweepings ( 5.10a )

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This contrived route begins right of a large crack between Flesh Tuxedo and Richter Scale. Meander between the crack and a large pillar. The path of least resistance could leave you swinging into some unpleasantness if you fell. Even if it cleaned up this route is not interesting at all.

Chicken Delight ( 5.10c )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This route is the leftmost route on the 'Chicken Wall' at 'The Clock Tower'. 7 bolts follow a face with pockets and crimpers to the anchors. The route can be eased by using the arete (a little dirty). I would place this route at the same grade as the route to the right, Rubber Chicken, somewhere around 5.10 c/d. Not quite as fluid as Rubber Chicken.

pendulum ( 5.13b )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

First 25 feet are over hang and very hard. I recommend top roping it but that's easier said than done.
Assuming you top rope it your going to pendulum a lot, but theirs a good tree for belay.

Pinnacle jump ( 5.8 )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Fun climb relatively easy and amazing view at the top, bring a camera if your into photography.

Rubber Chicken ( 5.10d )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Locate this route by walking uphill (left) to the second last set of bolts, just uphill past a dirty corner/groove system. Climb the face with sloping holds on great feet, past 7 bolts to the anchor, may be a little reachy for some but overall quite an enjoyable route.

Chicken Lips ( 5.11b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Locate this route by walking uphill (left) to a face just right of a dirty corner groove system with 4 bolts on it. (1 more over lip). Climb the steep slab with small crimpers, keeping the feet out of the corner to the left. A great line although very short. A little overgraded in the guide, perhaps 11a/b at most

Alfa Chick ( 5.11c )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Deceptive looking route, which will surprise many people. 4th line from the left, 5th line from the right on this lower wall. Climb easier terrain until the 3rd & 4th bolts where body position will be the key, a great onsight to figure out, drop your weight to the left and use the 1 finger or the sidepull found in a small obvious seam, crank to the lip and pull down. Have fun, a great line.

Chicken Hawk ( 5.9 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

It starts from the right side of the first obvious belay ledge at the base of the wall and climbs good holds to the top of the wall.

Daddy Blocker ( 5.11a )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Just right of "Chicken Hawk". This is the longest route on the wall and gives a couple cruxes. Watch out for the bat shit/piss before pulling the roof at the top. A key hold can be found for reaching the anchors by reaching around the right arete to a large jug. A decent route (a little dirty) with many different types of moves. 2 stars.

Mommy Blocker ( 5.10a )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

2nd route from the right of the old industrial bolts. A little squeezed with "Wessel In the Chicken Coop". Be careful clipping the first bolt, as there may be bat shit/piss all around. From here, continue up the arete/corner to the anchors. A short route, but nonetheless a decent route for the intermediate leader. As mentioned, a little squeezed with the route directly right, as you could clip these bolts as well.

Wessel in the Chicken Coop ( 5.9 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This route is the farthest right route on Chicken Wall, starting by 2 huge old industrial bolts. The climbing is rather forgettable with easy clips from good stances. Most of the good holds are hidden until you're right on top of them. I also found myself zig-zagging to the left and right of the bolt line to reach these holds. Beware the rope drag if you plan on setting up a top rope.