Rockclimbing | Routes | Asia

9/11 Blues ( 5.11a )

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

There are about three routes down in the trees. Two are short boulder problems with a bolt or two. Another is a slab with several bolts. Look and find.

Bolted crack ( 5.11d )

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

this is the grungy bolted crack to the left of the decent slab.

Circular ( 5.12b )

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

this route was bolted rope solo, on lead with removable bolts. A real adventure in 35 ft. the route is close to the water entrance of the cave, and climbs accross the roof, with the beginning and the end at the same verticle height. Start on either side.

dihedral right ( 5.11a )

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

and odd start-- see finger crack left for crag location. In fact. Here is a decent description on how to get to Dobongsong. The dobongsong subway station is on the north end of town. After departure, head toward the mountains through a cluster of 1000 restaraunts. Head up the 30 ft wide trails, with 10000 office workers.
the start. Lean off a ledge 30 ft up the route, and place a cam or two. Climb down into a hole, and start the rout> (alternatively, lean over, jam a hand, and start from the ledge.) climb up through a dihedral, corner and roof features. There was also a second pitch that was less good, but still 2 star. There were rap anchors in 2000.

DWS routes ( 5.11a )

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

At least two DWS routes are possible out the cave mouth, over the water. Do it at high tide and there is about 12 ft of water. at low tide it is as shallow as 3 ft. left route about 5.8, right route about 11A

finger crack left ( 5.11c )

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Dobong san is a large crag. Around the left side and higher, is a smaller subsidiary crag with two excellent routes. Yosemite like cracks. These routes are several hundred feet higher than the main crag.
The left route is an 11C finger crack. One can place gear high, from a ledge, to protect the opening moves. At the top, the crack narrows and is lost. Really excellent climbing for the Yosemite veteran. Yvon was proud.

Get Some ( V11 )

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Good bouldering wall with inverted and ceiling section. Great for workouts here on this little FOB. 3 routes taped, more planned

Holger onsight ( 5.11d )

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

There are right and left variations to this route (I think) the first couple bolts are shared. Named in honor of a visitor who onsighted the route. Delicate start followed by big good moves.
this is left of Witches Promise

laybacks from hell ( 5.12d )

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

The name says it. You'll know if you get on it. Left of roofed. Capped by a bit of sticky muddiness.

Left face routes ( 5.12c )

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

There are three routes 10 or so meters left of the big cave. All of these start up a beautiful limestone pillar. A right route branches hard right above the pillar and stays climbing in a severe overhang--about 12 b. A middle route goes almost straight up, and then through a small scoop to meet up with the right route. This one is hardest at about 12 C. The left route swings slightly left for about 30 ft, and then joins with the middle at the top with a rightward traverse on a delicate ledge. Some of these have larger than average fall potential. These routes overhang the whole way, and any fall is clean.

meada cave bouldering ( V4 )

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

There are endless possibilities for bouldering in the cave. It is possible to go completely around about 11+, to cross the roof in areas 5.12, to go up to various cranies and ledges--as easy as 5.10+. The cave is deep in all areas. When you are tired, let go.

more description ( 5.12c )

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This is more description for climbing cave. This cave is about 50 ft above the water, and can be accessed from below, or from rappel anchors above. There is an old dump on the climbers left. There are also two main walls. On the climbers right is a slightly overhanging wall, the color of dog doo. It has a couple of 5.11 routes which are pretty good. There is another route that starts much lower and goes through some poor rock. The left wall can also be divided into two sections . The first is the cave endurance area, on the right and center of the cave. There are a number of very overhanging routes that are all accessed from a single pillar of OK stone at the base. There is one short section of very soft stone litter about 20 ft up. Check this bolt close. These routes are all 12 B to about 13A. On the left side are a few short bouldery routes that end in odd features about 40 ft up. These are 11+ to 12 B. The walls all look awful, the climbing is actually pretty good.

Roofed ( 5.12a )

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This is the route with a small roof about 20 ft up. First route left of bolted crack

roofs and bolts ( 5.12a )

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

There are several bolted climbs above the oasis. All of them have short areas of trad climbing. The best has a 12A slab (I was told "10C") with a short 11+ roof higher. Excellent 10 slab high several pitches.

sea ward routes. ( )

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

About 150 ft left of the left face routes there is a cave. Several routes climb out the cave and the face above. After leaving the cave and overhang above, these routes are not as steep as the others. However, in some areas very small features are climbed, keeping all the grades 5.12

The big one ( 5.13b )

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

toward the left side of the big cave there is a ledge about 20 ft above the cave floor. Access the ledge by about 5.10 climbing. there are two variations out the cave. The right is hardest, and forks right after the first 4 bolts. Shallow two finger pulls, with jugs in between. About 60 ft of roof climbing. I redpointed this in a gale, with my 12 year old belaying.

The bow route ( 5.11b )

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

The oasis is about 150 ft up and the easiest access is runout 5.9 slab. This route starts off the right side of the oasis. I was told by a local welder/climber that the name was the bow, for the stellar pitch. I think the real name is Korean. First pitch is 5.9 crack, second pitch 10+ slab with a broken crack above. 4th pitch stellar corner arching crack--the bow 5.10. Above this is a low angle OW grovel which leads to a short hard roof, capped by a bit of endurance crack 11B head right to the belay.

Ulna ( 5.10b )

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Find the line that looks good. search like hell for RB holes.

Water world ( 5.13a )

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

this is the route that starts on the right side of the huge cave. This cave is about 100 ft left of Holger onsight. It starts on a slab (10+) and goes straight up to the overhang. At the overhang, it heads almost directly left and the follows the line of bolts around left and up to near the top of the cave, following pockets and reasonable rock.
I was only able to do this route with two ropes. The line produced too much rope drag with one rope. Often wet, always slimy.

Witches Promise ( 5.13b )

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

this was my hardest non-roof route in Okinawa. It is left of laybacks from hell, and I can't remember if there was a route between the two. Anyway, 11+ to a non-restful stance, then 5.12 to the slot and small roof, capped by a boulder problem. choose a dry day and good luck making the last clip or two--I choose to take the big falls on redpoint attempts.

workout route ( 5.12d )

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start from same ledge as the big one. go straight up instead of right.