Rockclimbing | Routes | North America/United States/California

Chewed Out (V4)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Right of "World Shut Your Mouth"on small cracks with sharp edges. Sit start.

Chewed Out (stand start variation) (V3)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Still hard.

Expressway (5.11b)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Super fun! My first .11 sport lead!

Ha-ha (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

On the west side of the Slowdance boulder.

Lululator (V4)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start a couple of feet right of the crack on two high crimps.

Might Fortress (5.12c)

Tue, 02 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

towards the left, maybe last climb before the ledge

Misery Chimney (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Climb the 'chimney' between the boulders west of the Misery boulder.

North Face Direct (V2)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

On Grandma's north face, climb the big huecos (right through the middle, on the left you're on "Essential Peabody", on the right on "Slipstream"). Several variations possible. Sit start.

Pale Blue (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Right of "Blue". while "Blue" goes up on sloppery holds, this goes up on the pockets.

Palm Reader (5.11d)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Slabby dihedral thn crack corner to roof crack

South Face (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

The boulder can be climbed (and downclimbed) on the south face. Highball.

Steppin' Out (5.10d)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Slightly overhanging offwidth crack on right side of Independence Pinnacle. Climb easy (5.7) first half of the center route to base of Steppin' Out and belay just under large tree growing out of a crack.
A short leaning fist section rounds the corner to a pin and the real climbing. Good rests along the way and the occasional good foot make this route not as sustained and mean as it looks. A bolt about mid way up helps to protect the route. Mostly 5 to 6 inches the whole way.

The Fang (V4)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Sit starting on the good hold in the back of the cave, go through the roof to the fang, then go up to the big hueco.

The Fang (right variation) (V2)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Don't start at the leftmost end of the cave, but instead at the right end. Sit start, hook, reach back to grab the fang. Same finish as the original "The Fang".

The Flake (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

On the north east side overhand, right of the crack.

unknown (V2)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

At the far corner of the boulder climb up the wide open diagonal crack. then go out onto the face (facing the campsite) and finish to the top.

Unnamed V0 (SW arete) (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Sit start with a heel hock, then a good rest at 2m height. Highball finish with a foot jam in the crack. Highballish,

Unnamed V0 Traverse (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Traverse along the flat boulder.

Unnamed V1 (on the NW face, to underclings) (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Stand start on the embedded rock at the NW face, go up to big underclings, then left.

Unnamed V1 (right of "The Flake") (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Sit start to the right of "The Flake", then go up and left to join "The Flake".

Unnamed V1 (sit start at the west end of the north face) (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start on the big flake or add 2 more moves by start 1m further right. Mantle.

Weapon of Mass Distraction (V5)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Wear long pants!

West Face (A2)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Solo over the course of three days. Great exposure, lonely and fun!

The Lascertor (5.10d)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Climb the steep handcrack down and left and around the corner from Tangerine Dream. The name came from the rough, sharp texture of the rock that forms the crack and what it can do to your hands.

unknown (V0)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

The slabby face, facing the road. Nice for kids to get comfortable on the rock.

Tangerine Dream (5.12d)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Technical, sequential moves climb the shallow crack / seam up steep orange rock past 2 bolts to a pair of red cold-shuts that is shared by Mr. Swing.

unknown (V1)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

SDS at the left corner, closest to the road. Go up to a nice crip, and continue on this side of the boulder to a smaller crimp and finally the top edge. Top out.

Any Which Way But Loose (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

At the north entrance of the cave.

Mr. Swing (5.11a)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Climb up to a shallow roof and hand traverse left past 3 bolts to the set of red cold shuts. This obvious hand traverse was the first route to be climbed at the Crack Machine. Although it is very straightforward, it is steeper and more strenuous than it looks, and is more difficult to follow than lead. Either way, a fall from the traverse will produce a spectacular swing.

unknown (V0)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

SDS as for route #2 (left corner, closest to the road) but go up and right towards the large flake. Top out over the flake.

Parrot Fashion (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Up on pockets and flakes.

Bertie Brunt (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Sit start, traverse right, then go up.

Norwegian (V4)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Traverse on pockets, right to left.

Telesis (5.11b)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Bolted line just to the right of Fracture. This route ascends a shallow dihedral to small roof followed by runout slab. The first bolt is high and a camalot #1 protects before you get there. It is well/overprotected through the roof then spiced up with runout and multiple 11a cruxes to the top. Can be toproped from dominion.

Bad Parrot (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Sit start, pull hard, step high.

Bob Parrot (of Maine) (V2)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Sad Parrot Boulder. Stand start on crimps, them up the slab.