Rockclimbing | Routes | North America/United States/California

Airstream ( 5.13b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

*****Adventure

Boulder Crack ( 5.8 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

climb the short crack and jugs with an overhanging start on the boulder to the left of and in front of the main face

Catch and Release ( 5.11d )

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start on the arete to the right of Piranha and continue up the face to the ledge at the top.

Escape from Poland ( 5.10b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Variation of the Polish route

Eye of the Storm ( 5.12c )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

***** Adventure

Fale ( V0 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start left of the Hinge. Climb up past a large hole to the top.
Var: start at the hinge and traverse under roof before heading up (V1)

Northern Pike ( 5.11a )

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

On the Mothership Wall. Start on the first 2 bolts of Fight Club, then go left around the arete and up some interesting and different from the usual Gorge fare climbing.

Orange Whip ( V2 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start right of the hinge, as you would for the Fale Traverse (V1). After you get out from under the roof move back right across the front the the arete. Downclimb to the start of the Hinge and complete the Fale Traverse to the top. This route combines sections of several established problems, but is the closest I've ever come to putting up a new route.

Request Chimney ( 5.7 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

chimney about 30' right of Andromeda Strain

Stirrup Notch route ( 5.6 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Approach from the outhouse, straight back and look up and left. You will see what looks like a balanced rock on the sitting on the top of the formation with a short finger crack on it. To access this second pitch, climb the vertical crack with a few wider moves, up to the notch below the balanced rock. Belay here, then move up out of the notch to the finger crack and there are bolts to rap on the top. The second pitch is really sweet but is over wayyyy too soon. P2 is height dependent- harder if short.

The Hinge ( V0 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start just right of the prominent arete that is just left of the stairs. Many variations exist, but all stay close to and actually use the arete.

Twist and Shout ( 5.10a )

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Just to the right of Hyperspace, climb a left facing right leaning ramp behind the chimney to the first bolt. Some small gear can be found before the first bolt. Steep big moves on big holds lead to the second bolt then it's on to a wondering odyssey through a knob field, an occasional crack and descend natural pro strait up to the anchors. Two bolt anchor on top.

Which Witch ( 5.8 )

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

One of the rightmost routes on the face (the rightmost?). A 5.8 move at the start leads to easier, mostly unenjoyable climbing.

Senior Daredevil ( 5.9 )

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Face.

Route info credited to "Bishop Area Rock Climbs, 3rd Edition" by Peter Croft and Marty Lewis. Awesome book guys!

Nuclear Winter ( 5.11b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

3rd Bolt Line from the left end, two left of jam it. This route has very cool moves, I would highly recommend it.

Sweet Poison ( 5.10a )

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Looks like a few small foot holds have been broken off at the start. Now I'd say the start is 10b if you stay true to book and start up the true face to the left. If you use the crack/ramp, I'd say that is 10a.

Route info credited to "Bishop Area Rock Climbs, 3rd Edition" by Peter Croft and Marty Lewis. Awesome book guys!