Rockclimbing | Routes | North America/United States/Arizona/Central

consumation crack (5.10a)

Thu, 27 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

inside the window( 1 pitch up), stunning crack on west side starts out wide, then hands then fingers. below the roof traverse onto the ledge, thru the cave to the rap anchors above the window. try not to use the stem across the chimney!

duck for cover (5.11b)

Thu, 27 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

This is an amazing route if you like hand cracks and face climbing. Mostly well protected, with just the right amount of spice. It gets all day shade so is a good warm weather choice.

Pitch 1) 5.11 140' Climb fingers (5.10)in a straight in corner. Switch cracks to a hand crack thru a roof(5.10). Traverse 10' (5.9)and up a steepening hand crack(5.11) to a 2-bolt belay. Be careful to conserve #2 Camalots. This pitch can be split in two by belaying before or after the traverse.

Pitch 2) 5.10 100' Scramble onto the ledge, and walk right around the pillar. Chimney behind the pillar, and step across to a fist to hand crack. From the ledge atop the hand crack walk left to a 2-bolt belay.

Pitch 3) 5.11 80' Mantle a hollow flake, and climb a crack to the bolt. A couple of bouldery moves bring you to one final hand crack to the summit. Bring all your #2s for this pitch as well.

Descent:
Rap 1: From the summit rap with 2 ropes to the top of P1.
Rap 2: 2 ropes to the ground.

Location
Approach:

Park as for Earth Angel. From Flag, Go right on Jordon Rd. then left on Park Ridge to parking lot. Duck for Cover is located on the north side of 5667' Butte, near Ripoff Rock (ref: Toula guide). 5667' Butte is the long E-W running butte north east of the parking lot.

From the parking lot hike back along the road until you see Jim Thompson Trail on the left. Hike east on Jim Thompson Trail. The trail will immediately cross a wash. Continue along the trail until the next major wash. Take a left and hike up this second wash for 1 mile as it passes under the east side of 5667' Butte. At the east end of the butte, the wash splits twice. Take a left both times, skirting along the north face of the butte. You are now facing west. When the wash starts to go steep uphill you'll see a tower detached from the main cliff on the top. Duck for Cover is on the north face of this tower. The main wash takes you very close to the start of the route. DFC starts in a finger crack just left of a water chute/gully. Look for the obvious crack splitting a steep bulge 120 ft. up.

Approach Time: 45 min - 1 hour
GPS: 34,53.711,-111,45.683

Flip Wilson (5.10b)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

1st Pitch runout 5.7 easy dihedral, Pitch 2: 5.10 delicate face climbing; P2-b move belay 15ft up for better management/viewing, P3: 5.10 exciting face climbing to 3rd class to an awesome summit- the view to the north is worth the walk if you have time, otherwise

shotgun wedding (5.10b)

Thu, 27 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

south side of Super Crack tower, finger and hands in a corner leads to shared anchors of Premarital Sex (N side)

Gadget (5.7)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Easy looking wall 30 ft left of Pinky and the Brain

No. 5 (5.10d)

Tue, 02 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

first route, so far, on the trail.
blunt arete, steep at the bottom.

The Crystal Ship (5.11b)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Just left of Scramabelle @ 10yds is a face with a small triangular shaped roof @ 1/3 up; pass this crux then enjoy the rest of the wall. Be sure to stay on the bolt line at the last two bolts on the final twisting arete.