Rockclimbing | Routes | North America/United States

????? (V1)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start about 20 feet to the right of Finger Flake on two decent crimps. Big throw up to the ledge above you, then work the finger crack to the top. Traverse to the left along the top, and top out. The first move could be done statically, if you can reach the small pocket under the ledge

Airy Route (5.3)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Location: At a crack approximately 6 feet right of the Hummingbird crack (second crack to right on Trango Wall).

P1 - Climb the crack then move into a "cave-like" crack (crux). Step up and right to a belay (same as Tango).

P2 - Traverse right around a corner and up to a ledge. Either scramble easily off right to a belay at a tree or climb up the face to the top.

Alan Shepard Goes to Space (5.11b)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

the steep face left of Touch of Gray. the main crux is off the second bolts and is some open palming stuff going out right and then up to some crimps. the rest of the route is sustained 10+/11- easing up after a jog left across a blank area. well protected and lots of thin, steep climbing.

Big Bambu (5.11b)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

the intimidating overhanging block right of Blind. actually the cruxes are right off the bolts and there is an excellent grip to clip the fourth bolt from...eases off after that. crux at the third bolt...a sort of step through high step layaway thing. interesting and doable.

Born X-eyed (5.9)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

start in the trees left of Youth Culture. many bolts lead straight up, then left to the anchor of Screaming Trees. this route is the skeleton key to Screaming Trees. thinner than Youth Culture and not as many rest options. traverse to the anchor is easier and well protected.

Brambly Downslide (5.10a)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Walk right from Yakuza to a slab wall with many water grooves before the black and tan Gold Coast wall starts. This route is the first bolted line on this wall. Enjoy fun and technical slab climbing.

Brave Like Old John Wayne (5.12a)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

as you walk from Fairfield East along the east facing side of Fairfield Central, three routes can be made out on a short, bulging wall. Brave...Wayne is the left most of these three. very sustained crimping and thin feet all the way. Greg Collins thought that if it were longer, it would be rated 12b.

Buzzard Guts (5.8)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Starts at the base of Anonymous Flake and ends at the top of Three Amigos. Climb up to the first bolt of AF and then head left generally maintaining that height until you eventually traverse past the single bolt on the unamed route right of Three Amigos and finish with the TA traverse and up the twin cracks to the top. The climbing is mostly 5.6 of easier with several spots of "spice" along the way.

Chainsaw Willy (5.10d)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

ascends the flake to the left of Screaming Trees. somewhat pumpy using some lieback/jamming, holds on the outside right prow and stemming. crux leaving out right at the top for the anchor.

Chewed Out (V4)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Right of "World Shut Your Mouth"on small cracks with sharp edges. Sit start.

Chewed Out (stand start variation) (V3)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Still hard.

consumation crack (5.10a)

Thu, 27 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

inside the window( 1 pitch up), stunning crack on west side starts out wide, then hands then fingers. below the roof traverse onto the ledge, thru the cave to the rap anchors above the window. try not to use the stem across the chimney!

duck for cover (5.11b)

Thu, 27 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

This is an amazing route if you like hand cracks and face climbing. Mostly well protected, with just the right amount of spice. It gets all day shade so is a good warm weather choice.

Pitch 1) 5.11 140' Climb fingers (5.10)in a straight in corner. Switch cracks to a hand crack thru a roof(5.10). Traverse 10' (5.9)and up a steepening hand crack(5.11) to a 2-bolt belay. Be careful to conserve #2 Camalots. This pitch can be split in two by belaying before or after the traverse.

Pitch 2) 5.10 100' Scramble onto the ledge, and walk right around the pillar. Chimney behind the pillar, and step across to a fist to hand crack. From the ledge atop the hand crack walk left to a 2-bolt belay.

Pitch 3) 5.11 80' Mantle a hollow flake, and climb a crack to the bolt. A couple of bouldery moves bring you to one final hand crack to the summit. Bring all your #2s for this pitch as well.

Descent:
Rap 1: From the summit rap with 2 ropes to the top of P1.
Rap 2: 2 ropes to the ground.

Location
Approach:

Park as for Earth Angel. From Flag, Go right on Jordon Rd. then left on Park Ridge to parking lot. Duck for Cover is located on the north side of 5667' Butte, near Ripoff Rock (ref: Toula guide). 5667' Butte is the long E-W running butte north east of the parking lot.

From the parking lot hike back along the road until you see Jim Thompson Trail on the left. Hike east on Jim Thompson Trail. The trail will immediately cross a wash. Continue along the trail until the next major wash. Take a left and hike up this second wash for 1 mile as it passes under the east side of 5667' Butte. At the east end of the butte, the wash splits twice. Take a left both times, skirting along the north face of the butte. You are now facing west. When the wash starts to go steep uphill you'll see a tower detached from the main cliff on the top. Duck for Cover is on the north face of this tower. The main wash takes you very close to the start of the route. DFC starts in a finger crack just left of a water chute/gully. Look for the obvious crack splitting a steep bulge 120 ft. up.

Approach Time: 45 min - 1 hour
GPS: 34,53.711,-111,45.683

Earth Spirit (5.8)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

The route furthest to the right on the Guardian wall.

Expressway (5.11b)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Super fun! My first .11 sport lead!

Flip Wilson (5.10b)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

1st Pitch runout 5.7 easy dihedral, Pitch 2: 5.10 delicate face climbing; P2-b move belay 15ft up for better management/viewing, P3: 5.10 exciting face climbing to 3rd class to an awesome summit- the view to the north is worth the walk if you have time, otherwise

Full Circle (5.12a)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Located inside the Cathedral across from the Window. Climbs an offset seam then pulls a roof. Traverse right to the anchor above the roof.

Ha-ha (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

On the west side of the Slowdance boulder.

Hawk's Neck (5.8)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start in the overhanging, cave crack to the left of Hawk's Nest. Climb the broken rock in the cave, up and right to an overhang. Climb out the right side to a thin seam on the face above. Continue up the face to a two bolt, belay station on a sloping ledge.

I Wish I Was A Catfish (5.10d)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

the right most of the three routes on the Atom Tan wall. Steve seems to give this one the pass in his guide, but it is my favorite route of these three I put up on this wall. Sustained crimping and small feet with some interesting movement to the forth bolt, then it eases up to the anchor. look for the wall with three chain anchors along the top as you walk west towards Visualize Whirled Peas.

Immodium AD (5.6)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Climb up the crack to the right of A-Beano (shares anchors). Ellington Red River Gorge climbing guide claims 5.7, but seemed much easier. Only slightly tricky bits are getting started and clipping the anchors.

Kundalini (5.6)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

To the right of Summer Solstice, this is the middle route on Guardian Wall. It has two chain top anchors for setting up a top rope.

Lifestyles of the Ripped and Heinous (5.11b)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

third from the right. low start under roof, then trend left to a big move.

Lululator (V4)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start a couple of feet right of the crack on two high crimps.

Might Fortress (5.12c)

Tue, 02 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

towards the left, maybe last climb before the ledge

Misery Chimney (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Climb the 'chimney' between the boulders west of the Misery boulder.

Nobodies Fault But Mine (5.10c)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

an older route of mine that I retrobolted, adding one more bolt and improving the anchor with Fixx rings. bouldery start to the first bolt then a wonderful rest to the right. sustained and pumpy crimps and pockets past three bolts to the top. rated 10b in Bechtel's guide but I still think it's 10c.

North Face Direct (V2)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

On Grandma's north face, climb the big huecos (right through the middle, on the left you're on "Essential Peabody", on the right on "Slipstream"). Several variations possible. Sit start.

On the Prowl (5.10a)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

This route is located just left of the obvious arete where the "Rebar" approach trail meets the cliff. Begin from a small ledge located 5-10 feet above the trail and tip-toe on up the easy technical slab above. You may want to use the arete near the top.

Open Casket (5.9)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start just to the left of Stormin Norman in a large left facing recess. Stem up 20 feet then make some chimney moves out the first roof. Traverse left and climb up a move or two then traverse back right (airy) to rejoin the main chimney system for the remainder of the route.

Pale Blue (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Right of "Blue". while "Blue" goes up on sloppery holds, this goes up on the pockets.

Palm Reader (5.11d)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Slabby dihedral thn crack corner to roof crack

Peer Pressure (5.10b)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Walk right from On the Prowl to a group of 2 routes. This is the first route on a short face.

Pick Pocket (5.12b)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

farthest right on Pocket Wall, starts under low roof and ascends arete.

Rape Ammo (5.10a)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Starts

Rape Conducive (5.9)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Starts in a left facing corner about a 100 yards to the right of Seal Test (after Seal Test you pass two large recesses in the cliff and then it is the next large left facing corner). Climb a 15 foot dihedral to a long flake that eats 2's and 3's. After the flake, jam and stem up some corner crack to a small roof with an off-fingers crack in the corner. Pull the roof and make a few easy moves to the anchors.

Roof Top Caving (V2)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Around the cornor from Difficult Crack in the small cave. Starts on the small piller about half way in and hook your feet above the slab. Use the roof to climb all the way out and over the top of the cave.

Saucerfull of Secrets (5.11d)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

to the left of Alan Shepard Goes to Space above some trees. thin climbing and crimps with some interesting cross overs at the crux. well protected and a good challenge.

Screaming Trees (5.11a)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

straight up the face just left of the trees and to the right of the Chainsaw Willy flake/corner. only four bolts (one of the early routes on this craig). The crux is actually right off the first bolt and is a few 11a moves, a thin layback edge for yer right hand with thin feet. the remainder of the route is "sporty" but is no harder than 5.8 with those moves performed directly off the remaining 3 bolts. just keep your head in control and you'll be fine.

shotgun wedding (5.10b)

Thu, 27 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

south side of Super Crack tower, finger and hands in a corner leads to shared anchors of Premarital Sex (N side)

Slaper (V6)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

The rounded arete to the right of 'Skin Graph'... SDS-Start with the two low jugs and hug arete with slopey sidepulls... go to horizontal break and jump off.

SortaMaybeKindaWild (5.10a)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

the big right facing corner in the center of the face. good fun and well protected.

South Face (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

The boulder can be climbed (and downclimbed) on the south face. Highball.

Soviets (5.12a)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

ascends the beautiful, short arete to the left of SortaMaybeKindaWild. no rests to speak of and a lot of technical movement. kind of a sketchy clip at the anchor, mainly because you're pumped. like Vance says, it's a sprint route, but it is a beautiful line. also goes by two other names I was thinking of as I spent an absurd amount of time working this thing out: Perko's Cafe or Use Your Illusion. Vance White did the pure first red point of this. the week before I had red pointed it to the anchor and then muffed it by grapping the damned thing as I was clipping it. it was a friendly competition and I'm totally cool with it.

Steppin' Out (5.10d)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Slightly overhanging offwidth crack on right side of Independence Pinnacle. Climb easy (5.7) first half of the center route to base of Steppin' Out and belay just under large tree growing out of a crack.
A short leaning fist section rounds the corner to a pin and the real climbing. Good rests along the way and the occasional good foot make this route not as sustained and mean as it looks. A bolt about mid way up helps to protect the route. Mostly 5 to 6 inches the whole way.

Superman (V6)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start on the most obvious side of the DC boulder (largest boulder) #1 in picture on Dc boulder. Start on small crimps and head up arete. It's harder than it looks.

Sweet Jane (5.8)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Climb up the slabby dihedral left of "Hey There Fancy Pants". Follow up to a single bolt and come to a ledge below a roof. The bolts are on the face of the roof with a ring dangling out in space to serve as your target. You might want to bring a whisk broom as it was quite sandy, especially at the ledge before the anchors. Maybe this will improve in time.

Like many routes in this area, circa 11/08 there was a tag glued to the wall and engraved with the route name at the start.

(Note: Details such as first ascent and length from Ray Ellington Red River Gorge climbing guide!)

The Fang (V4)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Sit starting on the good hold in the back of the cave, go through the roof to the fang, then go up to the big hueco.

The Fang (right variation) (V2)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Don't start at the leftmost end of the cave, but instead at the right end. Sit start, hook, reach back to grab the fang. Same finish as the original "The Fang".

The Flake (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

On the north east side overhand, right of the crack.

The Pocketeer (5.11b)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

second from the right, starts in low roof and out headwall

Touch of Gray (5.10c)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

route ascends the left side of the prow 25 feet to the left of Chainsaw Willy. well protected and a lot of fun.

Treats (5.10a)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

ascends a thin line between Realm of the Pygmy Sex God and Apostrophe. lots of thin crimping with some rests. I facillate between calling this 5.9 and 10a but think it is one of the best, if not THE best, line on the Punk Wall. good protection.

Uncle Meat (5.8)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

this goes straight up the face just right of Youth Culture Killed My Dog. Only three bolts, so this is not a route for the beginner 5.8 leader. probably isn't any harder than 5.7, but it is seriously "sporty". One of the first routes put up in this section of cliff. getting to the first bolt is the most difficult part of this climb.

unknown (V2)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

At the far corner of the boulder climb up the wide open diagonal crack. then go out onto the face (facing the campsite) and finish to the top.

Unknown, 5.10a (5.10a)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

This route begins about 20 ft to the right of the short 5.10b sport route that you first encounter when approaching this area. The crux move is between the 1st and 2nd bolt. Continue up to reach a large ledge. A good gear anchor and be built here using the right facing corner. Other route options exist from here for adding another pitch of climbing. There are no anchors.

unknown, 5.8 (5.8)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start below the right trending wide crack in an overhang. Climb up to reach the overhang, place your big gear, and then continue up and right to reach the nice crack system that heads up and left toward the shuts above the Piton Crack. The crux is navigating past the wide crack section. There's also a variation in which you pull the overhang, cliping a single bolt and then joinin up with the Piton Crack climb.

Unknown, 5.9 (5.9)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Follow the right facing dihedral above the the Unknown, 5.10a, 3 bolt sport climb immediately to the right of the approach trail for this area. If climbed in 1 pitch, this makes a nice long route. The finishing part is pretty cool. It's an overhanging finger crack supplemented with nice face holds.

Unknown, 5.9 (5.9)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

From the large ledge above the 3 bolt, 5.10a, traverse left about 15 ft and climb up aiming for a crack system on the face. There's no gear until you pull the crux way out left. From here, trend up and right to reach the top of the cliff. There was once a bolted line to the right and immediately left of the arete, but it has since been removed, including the shuts.

Unnamed V0 (SW arete) (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Sit start with a heel hock, then a good rest at 2m height. Highball finish with a foot jam in the crack. Highballish,

Unnamed V0 Traverse (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Traverse along the flat boulder.

Unnamed V1 (on the NW face, to underclings) (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Stand start on the embedded rock at the NW face, go up to big underclings, then left.

Unnamed V1 (right of "The Flake") (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Sit start to the right of "The Flake", then go up and left to join "The Flake".

Unnamed V1 (sit start at the west end of the north face) (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start on the big flake or add 2 more moves by start 1m further right. Mantle.

Weapon of Mass Distraction (V5)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Wear long pants!

West Face (A2)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Solo over the course of three days. Great exposure, lonely and fun!

West of Venus (5.8)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

ascend the seam left of Realm of the Venusian Sex Pygmy. well protected and fun: ends at the Venusian Sex Pygmy anchor.

Before Man (5.11d)

Tue, 02 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Three feet right of Turbo. Small roof.

Chitirefic (V2)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Obvious crack on far left of wall. You can also sit start in the small scoop at the bottom. Be careful, the rock down at the bottom is a little rotten but the rest is solid.

Cracks on Crack (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Near vertical north face on boulder 3. The rock is cracked kind of like dried mud. You can go direct or work the right edge for a variation. Starting as low as you can and to the right makes it more difficult.

Gadget (5.7)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Easy looking wall 30 ft left of Pinky and the Brain

hang time (V5)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

starts under goliath wall sign. go straight up over sign on crimpers (dont use the sign)

Main Face Left (5.10a)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Just follow the bolts

My First Boulder (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Small ledgy area to the left of the fallen tree. You can traverse right to left then over the top or just go direct from a sit start. As with everything in Hitchiti topping out can be awkward.

No. 5 (5.10d)

Tue, 02 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

first route, so far, on the trail.
blunt arete, steep at the bottom.

Number 7 (5.11b)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

This ascends an arete on the furthest left portion of the first large wall. It begins just to the left of the 10c. Marty Karabin calls this a fun route - 11a/b, crumbly in sections, with two 4" blast holes which we could not spot. The first hanger is missing but is right next to a protectable crack (.5 to .75)

One Wet Sock (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Starts on the right edge then work towards middle with obvious knob. Juggy holds all the way. You can dyno from the bottom to make it interesting.

Screaming Butterfly (5.12c)

Tue, 02 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

3-4 feet left of Robo Crack

Snuffy Smith Buttress (5.9)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

On the small pinnacle on the right side of the fourth horseman

The Lascertor (5.10d)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Climb the steep handcrack down and left and around the corner from Tangerine Dream. The name came from the rough, sharp texture of the rock that forms the crack and what it can do to your hands.

The Nightcrawler (5.10c)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

This is probably the premiere route on the Brownstone wall- or at least the premiere 5.10 route- three pitches of superb climbing up the right side of the Hourglass formation are the heart of the route. Start down and right from the Hourglass on some low angle rock. Pitch 1) Work your way up to the base of the obvious chimney at the base of the hourglass. Generally straight up with a short traverse left at the end. 150', 5.6ish Pitch 2) Gain the chimney and follow it to a good ledge. 5.9, 130' Pitch 3) Follow the dihedral above to another anchor. Amazing. 5.10+, 100' Pitch 4) Continue up one of the best short pitches anywhere to an anchor. 5.10-, 60' Pitch 5,6) Work your way up the face and crack system to the top of the wall, 5.8ish, 200'

Unknown (V7)

Tue, 02 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start standing and pull up on small crimps and try for a small sloping crimp up high. Could be height dependent. Very nice problem. If anyone knows the rating and name you can update it or let me know..... V5/6??

unknown (V0)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

The slabby face, facing the road. Nice for kids to get comfortable on the rock.

Buttery Flake (V0)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Big flake to the right of Chitirefic. Start to the left of the obvious flake. Follow the flake around or go straight up. The rock is razor sharp on the first hold of the flake.

Don't Pro the Flake Bro (5.12b)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Climb combat medic. Do not pro large flake--there is pro below and above. Climb face above and then left to anchors. (90 Ft 12 B/C) Step a few feet right, climb past bolt to crack. (30 ft 5.10) Climb bulge on right side of tree past 2 bolts (11C 70 ft.). It is possible to follow crack after first bolt (11B).

Falling on a Dirty Mattress (V6)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

To the right of the fallen tree you'll see the obvious overhung route above the dirty mattress. Not sure who put it there or how long it has been there. By my estimates this is probable the hardest route in Hitchiti. You start underneath with a sit start the work up and over slightly to the left. The holds are pretty crimpy.

No Good Ending (V2)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Right to left traverse on the side facing the river. The farther right you start the longer and harder it could be. Moves left and up until you run out of hold near a small tree. Possible sloper top out.

Tangerine Dream (5.12d)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Technical, sequential moves climb the shallow crack / seam up steep orange rock past 2 bolts to a pair of red cold-shuts that is shared by Mr. Swing.

unknown (V1)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

SDS at the left corner, closest to the road. Go up to a nice crip, and continue on this side of the boulder to a smaller crimp and finally the top edge. Top out.

Any Which Way But Loose (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

At the north entrance of the cave.

Heart of Darkness (5.10d)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Ever wonder what that giant roof at the top of Dark Shadows goes? Well, with some scary pins and bolts, along with a piece of wide gear or two, you too can climb the route that received its FFA from Richard Harrison, John Long and Lynn Hill back in 1981. Good luck, that's a scary one!

Minimum Height Required (V2)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Look for the start of the ledge to the right of the giant flake. This is a left to right traverse with a jump start to the ledge for most people not playing in the NBA. Traverse right along the ledge until crack in main face. Down climb or it might be possible to top out.

Mr. Swing (5.11a)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Climb up to a shallow roof and hand traverse left past 3 bolts to the set of red cold shuts. This obvious hand traverse was the first route to be climbed at the Crack Machine. Although it is very straightforward, it is steeper and more strenuous than it looks, and is more difficult to follow than lead. Either way, a fall from the traverse will produce a spectacular swing.

unknown (V0)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

SDS as for route #2 (left corner, closest to the road) but go up and right towards the large flake. Top out over the flake.

Chasing Shadows (5.10a)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

A great route to do when Dark Shadows is occupied!! Climb the first pitch of Dark Shadows to the belay. Move right into the right hand of two crack systems and up to a two bolt anchor. 3rd pitch climbs the blunt arete (black hangers on the bolts), to the Dark Shadows belay. Note: If this last pitch is either too hot (black rock, you know) or too intimidating, it is possible to escape to the second to last belay of Dark Shadows by heading left along a traverse after the second bolt. Goes at about 5.6 or so.

Edge Dressing (5.10c)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Variation of Chasing Shadows pitch 3. From the top of pitch 2 on Chasing Shadows move up and left to climb straight up the center of the wall clipping bolts finishing at the top of Dark Shadows. Thin and technical on slick black varnish

Parrot Fashion (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Up on pockets and flakes.

The Crystal Ship (5.11b)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Just left of Scramabelle @ 10yds is a face with a small triangular shaped roof @ 1/3 up; pass this crux then enjoy the rest of the wall. Be sure to stay on the bolt line at the last two bolts on the final twisting arete.

Unnamed Crack (V4)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Small crack at the end of the long traverse ledge. Climb to ledge or possible sketchy top out.

Mulva (V0)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Large separation at the far right of boulder #1 caused by water runoff. Up to a sloper on top.

The Next Century (5.10d)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

One of the best routes in the canyon, The Next Century ascends a gorgeous varnished apron and arete for two pitches. This route is a definite testpiece for any 5.10 leader! Start just right of a low roof about 200' right of Y2K in a nice crack system. Pitch 1: Ascend the right leaning crack/arete system for a short distance until you can move left onto a large featured slab. Belay at a bolted station. 5.7, 80' Pitch 2: Step right (bolt) to the arete and climb the tricky slab up to a shallow dihedral. Climb through the dihedral to the steep wall above- climb generally straight up, eventually arriving at a decent ledge. 5.10d, 120' Descent: Rappel once with two ropes, landing on a ledge just right of the base. Pull your ropes from the base to avoid snags or take one 70m.

Bertie Brunt (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Sit start, traverse right, then go up.

Norwegian (V4)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Traverse on pockets, right to left.

Stemming Corner (5.6)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

This route climbs a corner crack about 40' to the right of the white slabStem up twin cracks in the corner, past a small tree to the descent ledge.

Telesis (5.11b)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Bolted line just to the right of Fracture. This route ascends a shallow dihedral to small roof followed by runout slab. The first bolt is high and a camalot #1 protects before you get there. It is well/overprotected through the roof then spiced up with runout and multiple 11a cruxes to the top. Can be toproped from dominion.

Welcome to Red Rocks (5.12b)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Use the top dihedral as an end point to start off the ground. Start on small ramp right of a wide dihedral in bushes. Easy climbing but questionable gear get you to good anchors below the hard climbing (5.7). Follow the obvious line striaght up to the top of 2nd pitch of Pauligk Pillar

Two Bits (5.9)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

I was planning to climb Van Allen Belt but was obviously off route. I can't find this climb in any guidebook. I am calling it Two Bits. Climb the left side of the short dihedral immediately to the left of Van Allen Belt. No pro until 15 feet up. Up on a steep face with good holds for another 15 feet. Then go left about 7 feet on a small ledge. Up a flake/crack that curves right onto easier rock to the communal anchor.

Bad Parrot (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Sit start, pull hard, step high.

Bob Parrot (of Maine) (V2)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Sad Parrot Boulder. Stand start on crimps, them up the slab.

Epinephrine (5.9)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Called a grade V, Epi (5.9) is usually done in a long day. You can find topo and adequate pitch description in Swain's Red Rocks Select. (supertopo has very accurate topos as well) Swain describes the route in 18 pitches but with a 60m rope, a competent team can do it it 10-12 pitches. The most famous element of the climb is the 300 feet of 5.9 chimney. All belays as per the Supertopo plus a couple others are bolted. The belay after the roof is not bolted (one bolt is there for pro/redirect)- This belay takes medium cams and/or smallish stoppers and cams, but takes a minute to find it. Enjoy this one, it's listed as a North American Classic for a reason!