Rockclimbing | Routes | North America/United States

Mescalito Regular Route ( 5.5 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Climb crack in corner to ledge, traverse right, and continue up cracks.

Tomorrow is Today ( 5.12b )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Right hand line of bolts up the green face.

o. p. p. ( V7 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Sit start at the right end of the roof on large edges/loaves. Make move up to small crimps. move left to a good edge and right hand to a sidepull. Jump to the mail slot. Drop. An area classic.

3 Stacks Arete ( 5.11b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/topo_109660.html

Agent Orange ( 5.11b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Face to roofs

Agent Orange ( 5.12a )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/topo_109660.html

Agent Orange Direct ( 5.13c )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/topo_109660.html

Start just to the right of the crack. Climb strait up without using the crack to a rail and clip hold. Bring a crash pad�

Airstream ( 5.13b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

*****Adventure

All the Pretty Horses ( 5.11c )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

details at redriverclimbing.com

Antonian ( 5.9 )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Climb the dihedral to the left leaning crack

Arm Forces ( 5.13a )

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

To the right of Ron Kauk Gets a Perm

Astro Projection ( 5.13a )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/topo_109660.html

Authenic Life ( 5.10b A1 )

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

start from the notch between J-head and the eastern tower. Approach from either Jordan Road TH or Soldiers Pass TH, hike toward Cibola pass then up wash and slick rock

P1: 5.10 TRAVERSE!!! about 100ft past a gear placements and bolts to a nice ledge.
P2: 5.10 CRACK!!! clip a bolt and head up steep finger and hand crack, passing a bad bolt (plan to replace) to a ledge atop the column.
P3: 5.10,C1 STEEP!!! 4th class up slab to ledge then climb face on huecos, clip bolt, then thin fingers and edges past bulge to summit. (will probably go free at 5.12)

Black Beard ( 5.8 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

protection is R rated
most climbers toprope it

Block Head ( 5.11a )

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Left-most climb from the ledge. Reachy roof with some ledges to pull before gaining a no-hands rest and a super mellow top out.

Bombers Delight ( 5.8 )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This climb is along the same rock face as Six Crack but much further left. (left if you are facing the cliff) I named this climb Bombers Delight because of the many great holds on this route. You can climb either left or right of the crack or even the crack itself. Theres easy access to the top and plenty of trees to tie off on. In addition to this climb it looks like there would be a few more good ones just to the right on this climb. Pics will be added soon.

Boulder Crack ( 5.8 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

climb the short crack and jugs with an overhanging start on the boulder to the left of and in front of the main face

Broken Finger ( 5.7 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/topo_109660.html

Catch and Release ( 5.11d )

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start on the arete to the right of Piranha and continue up the face to the ledge at the top.

Chicken Legs ( 5.1 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/topo_109660.html

Class act ( 5.11b )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This is the bolted route that starts at the top of the center route. The start is a bit tough to protect--I used green and yellow aliens in the thin crack. Above this, the bolts are widely spaced. Arete and face climbing.

Curiosity ( 5.8 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This route is hard to find. From "Another One Bites the Dust" continue along the wall a few feet until you cross a drainage. From here head right and you'll see another wall on your left. Follow a faint trail/bushwack along this wall for 500-1000ft across another couple of drainages. Eventually you'll see an obvious breakdown on your left between the main wall and a buttress. Make your way up this breakdown and you'll see this hand crack straight ahead on the buttress. The crack has a couple obvious keystones half way up, one of these is loose so heads up.

Direct drive ( 5.10c )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/topo_109660.html

Eagles Wing ( 5.4 )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This climb is more toward the begining of the cliff line. If you look up you should see a rock that looks like a gaints eagles head. Now look for the rock that looks like its wing (the wing will run left if you are facing the cliff) at the vary tip of the wing (going away from the head) is a chimney that runs almost all the way up the cliff. For an east climb you can do the chimney or for something a little harder go left. I started out on the chimney then went left about 6 feet off the ground. Eigher way its a pretty easy climb. Lots of holds with some great bombers but in some areas you will only be able to grip the rock with your fingers. I almost dismised this climb as to easy but decided to do it since I had my nine your old son along and he wanted to have a go. It was much better than I expected, and I'd highly recommend it for novice climbers or those just wanting to have some great fun. The only problem here was setting up the runners, your going to need some long ones as the nearest trees are about 11 feet back. There are two trees the literally hang on the edge but I was not about to tie off on those.

Easy Steps ( 5.4 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/topo_109660.html

Escalator ( 5.5 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/topo_109660.html

Escape from Poland ( 5.10b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Variation of the Polish route

Eye Brow ( 5.10b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/topo_109660.html

Eye of the Storm ( 5.12c )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

***** Adventure

Fale ( V0 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start left of the Hinge. Climb up past a large hole to the top.
Var: start at the hinge and traverse under roof before heading up (V1)

Fear Factor ( 5.9 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/topo_109660.html

Fish hook ( 5.9 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/topo_109660.html

Guantanamo Bay ( V3 )

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

40 feet left of Triangles. Climb to mossy ledge and crawl off left. See Photo.

Indecent Proposal ( 5.10b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This route gets to the business from the start. Rather difficult barn door climbing to start followed by a flake and ending on easier terrain. This is a must do climb at Avalanche so don't let the scramble dissuade you from climbing it. Great views, bomber rock, and a great climb for the grade.

Invisible man ( V5 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Just left of Opp. Sit start and make easy moves to a right hand jug and a left hand crimp on the lip of a roof. Some trickery leads to a good fingerlock with the right. Crank up to an intermediate crimp then to the invisible hold. Jump to the jug. Drop

Jump Start ( V4 )

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

left of Ivan the Terrrible

k.b. problem ( V4 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start left of a tree near the center of the face. Start on good crimps, reach to smaller crimps and lock off to more crimps/ pinches. great!

Kill your Television ( 5.11a )

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

The Crack above Airation.

Maday ( 5.9 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/topo_109660.html

Mithras ( 5.12d )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Arete problem about 20 feet to the right of Eyeless in Gaza

Mossy Demise ( 5.10a )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Almost at the vary end of this cliff line just before the clift face changes a sharp corner the disappears into the hill. Its the last chimney you'll come to. Don't climb the chimley just head up the left hand side. Theirs small out cropping that you have to get over toward the begining of the climb. This climb has some good bomber holds, but there are just as many places where you only have finger holds. Theres also some wet moss growing rock in places. The several feet of this climb is a bit hard.

Mr. Workman's Crack ( 5.11b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Crack line to the left of Workmen's Comp

Mud and Guts ( 5.10b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Dihedral to the left of Just Send It

Nervous Breakdown ( 5.11b )

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

First climb right of Giardia. Broken start to easy roof into sustained crack/corner climbing which gets progressively more difficult. Ends at an anchor shared with Giardia.

Northern Pike ( 5.11a )

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

On the Mothership Wall. Start on the first 2 bolts of Fight Club, then go left around the arete and up some interesting and different from the usual Gorge fare climbing.

Now or Later ( V7 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start left of the tree to the left of Slam dunk. Between the slab and the tree. Start low on crimps, move to more crimps, thena big move to a great mailbox slot. Easier climbing leads to poor slopers and an exciting finish.

One Step Beyond ( 5.12a )

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

5.11a R or X to the bolt
Should be toproped first.

Orange Whip ( V2 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start right of the hinge, as you would for the Fale Traverse (V1). After you get out from under the roof move back right across the front the the arete. Downclimb to the start of the Hinge and complete the Fale Traverse to the top. This route combines sections of several established problems, but is the closest I've ever come to putting up a new route.

Power Ranger ( V7 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start just left of the large crack that splits the transformer boulder. Start match in a good pocket. Interesting moves lead to a good right hand crimp in the roof. reach around the lip and bump again left hand to a good hold. cross to a jug and jump for the next jug rail. drop.

Promised ( 5.10b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Face and crack route between Gemini Cracks and Ess Crack. Look for a flared crack in lower middle of a south facing face. Can start directly up to the crack or right on the face or even to the far right clipping a bolt (on anoth route) above a short crack.

Quarry Ice Flows ( WI3 M1 )

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

To the climbers right of what is being called Mertz Perch (Emlenton Quarry) is two ice flows.

Queen of Hearts ( 5.12c )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

A nice long route that pulls several roofs. Lots of fun climbing in between good rests.

Red Rover ( 5.11b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

The first route on the left of the Playground wall. See redriverclimbing.com for details.

Request Chimney ( 5.7 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

chimney about 30' right of Andromeda Strain

Resuscitation of a Hanged Man ( 5.11b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

details at redriverclimbing.com

Roofing Madness ( 5.10c )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/topo_109660.html

Ruptured (Stretch Armstrong) ( 5.11d )

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

sport line to the left of Team Jesus. If you are under 6 ft you will understand the meaning of the route's surname, "Stretch Armstrong". Great technical climbing.

Six Gun Sally ( 5.10a )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This route is to the left of Buster Douglas. The crux is a thin crack up to a two finger pocket. The second and third bolts are spaced pretty far apart but there is a great pocket next to the third to save you from decking.

Skinhead Grin ( 5.11b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

nearly a full 100" judging by the amount of rope left. Maybe 80-90"?
Beautiful sustained climbing.

Picture on Eric Horst's site:

http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/BubbaCity/pages/gallery/skinhead.htm

Right next to "Reachers from Hell"

Slap Jack ( V7 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Sit start with 2 crimps in a seam. Right hand up to big sloper/sidepull, left to crimp. left to pocket, then easier climbing moves right to the top.

Stirrup Notch route ( 5.6 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Approach from the outhouse, straight back and look up and left. You will see what looks like a balanced rock on the sitting on the top of the formation with a short finger crack on it. To access this second pitch, climb the vertical crack with a few wider moves, up to the notch below the balanced rock. Belay here, then move up out of the notch to the finger crack and there are bolts to rap on the top. The second pitch is really sweet but is over wayyyy too soon. P2 is height dependent- harder if short.

The 5.8 ( 5.8 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/topo_109660.html

The Argonaut ( 5.13a )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

under a big roof. bolted bolder problem . always dry even in hard rain...

The Hinge ( V0 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start just right of the prominent arete that is just left of the stairs. Many variations exist, but all stay close to and actually use the arete.

The Sweepings ( 5.10a )

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This contrived route begins right of a large crack between Flesh Tuxedo and Richter Scale. Meander between the crack and a large pillar. The path of least resistance could leave you swinging into some unpleasantness if you fell. Even if it cleaned up this route is not interesting at all.

The Yert Yak Crack ( 5.9 )

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Overhanging dihedral with a hand crack in the back.

Time Takes a Cigarette ( 5.9 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Starts 30 feet up and right of Motor Booty in a huge left facing with a wide looking crack and monster roof. Climb the initial wide crack while capitalizing on the more friendly crack on the right wall. Pull up into the 30 foot roof and jam/lieback out to the end keeping a sharp eye out for placements smaller than the obvious 4 inch wide crack in the roof.

Tracer ( 5.11a )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/topo_109660.html

Trio ( 5.9 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/topo_109660.html

Twist and Shout ( 5.10a )

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Just to the right of Hyperspace, climb a left facing right leaning ramp behind the chimney to the first bolt. Some small gear can be found before the first bolt. Steep big moves on big holds lead to the second bolt then it's on to a wondering odyssey through a knob field, an occasional crack and descend natural pro strait up to the anchors. Two bolt anchor on top.

Which is which? ( 5.11c )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Crank through a steep start for a few bolts to a hand ledge. Continue up a more vertical face to the overhanging headwall. Conquer the headwall and clip the chains.

Which Witch ( 5.8 )

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

One of the rightmost routes on the face (the rightmost?). A 5.8 move at the start leads to easier, mostly unenjoyable climbing.

Who pooped in the park? ( 5.11a )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Bolted line just left of 100 Years of Solitude. Details at redriverclimbing.com

Yellow Matter Custard ( 5.13a )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

a must do!!!

Chicken Delight ( 5.10c )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This route is the leftmost route on the 'Chicken Wall' at 'The Clock Tower'. 7 bolts follow a face with pockets and crimpers to the anchors. The route can be eased by using the arete (a little dirty). I would place this route at the same grade as the route to the right, Rubber Chicken, somewhere around 5.10 c/d. Not quite as fluid as Rubber Chicken.

Cure For Pain ( 5.10c )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

10b from 5' off the ground to 5' before the anchors.

dick and harry ( 5.10c )

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

steep, juggy start to reachy moves pulling the lip.
left of tom.

French Toast ( 5.8 )

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

65'. Just inside the House on west (right) wall. Starts roughly right above where you enter the House. Now a sport climb. Climb up face w/ large finger pocket then veer right out from under rock to upper thin face.

No. 5 ( 5.10d )

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

first route, so far, on the mouse wall trail.
blunt arete, steep at the bottom.

pendulum ( 5.13b )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

First 25 feet are over hang and very hard. I recommend top roping it but that's easier said than done.
Assuming you top rope it your going to pendulum a lot, but theirs a good tree for belay.

South Crack ( 5.6 )

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Starts up relatively easy east facing chimney to top of sundeck boulder. Climb the crack to the right. The crux is getting past the bulge. It is possible to clip some ratty slings that were wrapped around the chock stone to surpass this section. 2nd and 3rd pitch can be combined on the way up.

Tom ( 5.8 )

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

casual, blocky start to open book corner for your stemming approval.
left of tom.

Pinnacle jump ( 5.8 )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Fun climb relatively easy and amazing view at the top, bring a camera if your into photography.

Rubber Chicken ( 5.10d )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Locate this route by walking uphill (left) to the second last set of bolts, just uphill past a dirty corner/groove system. Climb the face with sloping holds on great feet, past 7 bolts to the anchor, may be a little reachy for some but overall quite an enjoyable route.

Senior Daredevil ( 5.9 )

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Face.

Route info credited to "Bishop Area Rock Climbs, 3rd Edition" by Peter Croft and Marty Lewis. Awesome book guys!

Chicken Lips ( 5.11b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Locate this route by walking uphill (left) to a face just right of a dirty corner groove system with 4 bolts on it. (1 more over lip). Climb the steep slab with small crimpers, keeping the feet out of the corner to the left. A great line although very short. A little overgraded in the guide, perhaps 11a/b at most

Jingus ( 5.11b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Move right from the previous line about 15 feet to the next bolted line. Climb a steep start then continue through pinches and ledges to the anchors.

Nuclear Winter ( 5.11b )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

3rd Bolt Line from the left end, two left of jam it. This route has very cool moves, I would highly recommend it.

Alfa Chick ( 5.11c )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Deceptive looking route, which will surprise many people. 4th line from the left, 5th line from the right on this lower wall. Climb easier terrain until the 3rd & 4th bolts where body position will be the key, a great onsight to figure out, drop your weight to the left and use the 1 finger or the sidepull found in a small obvious seam, crank to the lip and pull down. Have fun, a great line.

Doin' Time ( 5.11a )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Right of the S Crack. 4 Bolts, 2 Bolt Anchor.

Chicken Hawk ( 5.9 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

It starts from the right side of the first obvious belay ledge at the base of the wall and climbs good holds to the top of the wall.

Psychopathy ( 5.12c )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Walk 10 feet right of Chickenboy

Sweet Poison ( 5.10a )

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Looks like a few small foot holds have been broken off at the start. Now I'd say the start is 10b if you stay true to book and start up the true face to the left. If you use the crack/ramp, I'd say that is 10a.

Route info credited to "Bishop Area Rock Climbs, 3rd Edition" by Peter Croft and Marty Lewis. Awesome book guys!

The Moose ( 5.10a )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

nice

Belly of the Beast ( 5.12c )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This is the fifth line from the left side of the wall and the last line on this section of the wall. Begin under a roof and yard out on jugs to gain the overhanging face. Climb through long moves on good holds to a well defined crux. Keep it together for the rest of the route because it ain't over.

Cell Block ( 5.10b )

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Furthest climb on the right face of the block. Traverses out a bright red face before cruising some jugs to the top.

Daddy Blocker ( 5.11a )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Just right of "Chicken Hawk". This is the longest route on the wall and gives a couple cruxes. Watch out for the bat shit/piss before pulling the roof at the top. A key hold can be found for reaching the anchors by reaching around the right arete to a large jug. A decent route (a little dirty) with many different types of moves. 2 stars.

Mommy Blocker ( 5.10a )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

2nd route from the right of the old industrial bolts. A little squeezed with "Wessel In the Chicken Coop". Be careful clipping the first bolt, as there may be bat shit/piss all around. From here, continue up the arete/corner to the anchors. A short route, but nonetheless a decent route for the intermediate leader. As mentioned, a little squeezed with the route directly right, as you could clip these bolts as well.

Wessel in the Chicken Coop ( 5.9 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This route is the farthest right route on Chicken Wall, starting by 2 huge old industrial bolts. The climbing is rather forgettable with easy clips from good stances. Most of the good holds are hidden until you're right on top of them. I also found myself zig-zagging to the left and right of the bolt line to reach these holds. Beware the rope drag if you plan on setting up a top rope.

green dragon ( 5.10b )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

this route is ten feet left of gumbys gully climb up through a large roof then pull your way through the green moss

route beer ( 5.8 )

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

this rout is twenty feet left of harmony crack climb the face to a large gully then right of the gully up a small crack good top out

Fred's Line ( )

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Absolute right end of Tufa City.

Broken Chicken Wing ( 5.9 )

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This route ascends the left angling hand crack just right of Rebar.

Riptide Ride ( 5.10c )

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Thin dihedral which has a unique hueco about 20 feet up. Approximately 100 feet left of Rebar. Tricky gear.

Sugar Daddy ( 5.9 )

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

200 feet right of Block and Tackle and left of a golden colored portion of the wall. A left trending crack starts on a small ledge/platform behind some rodos. May be slightly overhung. Has a short wide section near the top.