Rockclimbing | Routes | North America/United States/Kentucky

A Brief History of Climb (5.10c)

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Located at the far right at the gallery, after the unknown 10c, and just before the "oil pipe". Scramble up so-so rock to the high first bolt. Boulder past the next two bolts, then enjoy fun, steep climbing on good holds.

mosaic (5.12c)

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

fun jugs to crux up high

U.F.O. Problems (V8)

Sat, 04 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

A few feet left of Krytonite is a good horseshoe shaped hold that allows for a couple of matching combinations. Three lines emerge from this hold out a wave of solid rock marked by a chickenhead at its crest. U.C. (v5) has you go left through positive pinches, edges, and tricky feet. Go straight up through crimps, underclings, and sidepulls to finish just left of the chickenheads on U.P.S. (v7/8). Finally, head out right to a long (fairly improbable looking) throw off decent holds to a good edge, hang on tight for the last two moves and you've finished U.F.O. (v8). Names are simply discursive placeholders. Should you have any information on these or other problems at the cove (sans "wallering sucks" or the always-helpful "you suck") please feel free to contribute.

3 Pocket Problem (V5)

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

One of the best boulder problems in Kentucky. Sit down start through a few easy moves on big jugs. Use the 3 pockets, shoulder muscle, and mantle-rific tenacity to make the move over the lip.

My Name is Earl (5.11c)

Mon, 29 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

leftmost route at the shire, located directly right of the arete. bouldery sequence required to reach the first bolt.

Warm Ups (V0)

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Several different combinations of good edges and jugs at the far left end of the cliff. Provides decent warmups on mediocre rock.

Covert Methods (V12)

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

To the right of warm up is a steep section with small pockets, edges, and crimps. Start on the huge flake under the roof and make a long move out the roof using a positive edge. Make use of smallness as you move left to finish on a jug.

The Roof problem (V3)

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Start on the right side of the big flake. Move out left on decent holds and finish on the jug.

Fame and Money (V8)

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Starts in the corner just after the Covert Methods prow. Make a difficult move on big holds out to a huge incut slot. Move right out to a rail and crimp to finish. Going left out of the big slot is a v4/5.

Domestic Violence (V7)

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Starting the obvious slot 10' right of Fame and Money is this powerful classic. Bust a big move to the right hand sidepull and figure out the bat hang moves to finish. Very cool.

Carnatine (V4)

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

A few feet right of Domestic Violence is an obvious large sloper. Begin under this on a crimp and pinch, set feet, slap the sloper, and finish on the jug above.

Kryptonite (V6)

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Pretty far to the right of Domestic Violence. This gem starts a bit scrunched under the roof on a good left hand sidepull and a right hand crimp rail. Move out on good pinches and edges to finish on the jug just over the lip. Megafun roof climbing.

The Taint (V6)

Fri, 03 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Starting the same as Naked Truth (a pair of huecos 5 feet right of Kryptonite) move straight up through some pinches and a cool slopey plate to finish. The linkup (Kryptotaint) bumps the grade up a notch or two.

Naked Truth (V3)

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Start as The Taint and head right through good holds and a sharp pocket to finish on the shelf.

Hobbies Delight (V5)

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

To the right of Naked Truth but before the exposed rock is this fun problem. Use clever feet to move up and right through large holds.

Project (V12)

Fri, 03 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Start as Hobbies Delight but move out and right on heinous small holds to finish on the shelf. Grade is an approximation.

Double Clutch (V3)

Fri, 03 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Begin matched in a pocket and pop to the shelf. One move wonder.

Ghetto Methods (V10)

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Begin on the large dish, find a way to make the huge move out right to the pocket, hit the pinch and pop for the jug. Stout.

Corner Problem (V9)

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

To the right of Ghetto Methods in the (GASP!) corner.

Start right on the corner on some edges. Move left onto the corner, lean hard, and move up the arete to finish on the jug.

Corner Right (V3)

Fri, 03 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Starts the same as Corner Problem. Bump through pinches to a jug. Fun if not a bit on the scrunchy side.

Grover (V2)

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Traverse right on the crimp rail just right of the Corner Problem. Finish whenever you feel like you've done a v2.

Donkey Dick Traverse (V4)

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

to the right and around the corner from More Than a Broken Ankle.

Sit start on a large chunk of rock (note that this piece of rock feels loose and is might very well fall on you....ending your life) and head right to finish on Happy Days.

More then a Broke Ankle (V4)

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

To the right of Grover.

Begin on a odd slot and throw right to a good edge. Match and head for the top. Watch out for a possible fall off the cliff, hence the name. Like free-soloing without the exposure.

Happy Days (V5)

Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:00:00 -0700

The problem starts on two flat edges. Undercling these edges and slap the sloper. Match it and continue up to the large holds. One hard move.

The Muir the Merrier (5.11a)

Tue, 30 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Short 5.11a