Rockclimbing.com

10+

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

11+

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

A Face in the Crowd [Out of Africa]

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - stayed on because i didnt want to have to try again

Clutch and cruise

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - like the name implies. great overhanging sketchy start, good through the end.

Dirty Bitch

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - good problem very simple.

Dragon Slayer

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Expect to pass out when you reach the top. A hard 5.12d crux at the bottom followed by 40 feet of sustained 5.11 followed by a final 20 foot overhanging 5.11c crux with only two poorly positioned rests will make you cry for mercy.

Flesh Tuxedo

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - This is a fantastic climb. The beginning is a fun jug haul then a little technical in the middle and a great finish. The roof is intimidating from below but not that bad.

Guardian Angel

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This one is a little scary on lead. Always moving left of your last bolt.

Hair Today Gone Tomorrow

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - One of my favorites in the gap. Two distinct ways to go up it (that I know of): first and most popular is staying to the left on the main face of the route then coming back to the right before going over the roof.

The second way (and now my favorite way) is to stay right / middle the whole time; it doesn't look like it will be any nicer than the left route but in my opinion it's not only easier but it has a really fun move in it to boot!

heel hook prob

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - gets ur head in the game, good warm up

immaculate deception

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - with hanging the draws.

jesus wept

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - 11/09 did some pretty ugly hangdogging and innovative clipping but i pulled the moves.. its a long way off bt it will go down. one day...

Jumpin' Jack Flash

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - worst climb ever

Myster Z

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - None

No Man's Land

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Prototype

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - One of my alltime favorite routes. wish i had more trouble with it so i could have worked it but it is tones of fun... stay to the right at the anchors

Slice of Death

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Hard dedpoint followed by another 12a crux.

Sno-White

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This is a pretty fun route and rather easy once you know where the key holds are. Starts with a crack/corner, goes around a bulge and up to a ledge, then over the overhang to the finish. Took me some searching, but everything up top is within arms reach.

Southern Slab Route

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - Easy Climbing. Pro was ok

supercrack

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - A bit big for my hands.

To Defy The Laws Of Tradition

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Unknown

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - one move v5

White Fandango

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I liked this one.

mistaken Identity

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Ascent Note

5th Bolt Faith

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I knew where the bolt was but didn't trust myself to get there. Took a couple falls going for 5th bolt, redpoint on 2nd try. Not a single move on this climb is harder than the bottom of Plate Tectonics.

8 Flake

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Great warm up nice and long...fun route sucks to clean on the way down...some rope drag because of all the clips

Almost Nothing To It

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - a

Antonian

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Nice warm up for the surrounding climbs

Arete V1

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Slightly more fun than Pocket Slab.

Arete V3

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Decent problem. Required more core tension than I expected.

Black Tide

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Easy climbing initially leads to a crux-y top section, with a wild stem to the anchor. This was a difficult route to clean thoroughly because of the ledge. Should have cleaned up nicely by now with many feet and hands on it every weekend. An amazing vantage point to view and photograph climbers on Espresso.

bleached bones**

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Tricky heel hook to start and gets pretty easy after that

Boink

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This and all the problems in this area are so much fun to do at night...

Bridge Arete

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Not as straightforward as it looks

bumboy

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Once I got the beta, it was no problem. Before that...not so easy.

Catatonia

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - -

Catch and Release

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - tricky crux, but good fun

Claw Marks

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - -

Cold Fusion

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - A good climb. The business is down low.

Corner

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I thought this was easier than V4, but very fun nevertheless.

Crimp Scampi

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Best for its grade. Realy thin moves and alot of fun.

Cullman 2

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - ...

Dead Cats

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The first part of this route is easy about a 5.9 but near the anchors it becomes very slopie and becomes that 5.10

Dig Dug

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Auwsome problemb, lots of different ways to do it.

Dr. Feelgood

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - good route fun move

Dream On

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - good sequence for the crux

Dwarf

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - A must-do if you're here. The mantle is very fun.

Eff Eight

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - nm

Fear of a Black Planet

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Highly recommended. Be sure to do the second pitch route named James Brown (5.11b).

Gased On This

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I'm not sure on the grade for this. The problem overall was not that difficult for me, but the opening move is pretty powerful.

Gettin' Lucky In Kentucky

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I enjoyed it, the moves to the anchors were nifty. However, I'm not sure why this is a 5* climb. Not to say it wasn't good, but not necessarily one of the absolute best 10's at the Red. 5th Bolt Faith was just as fun, and that's only given 3*.

Gill Traverse

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Pretty fun traverse. The business happens before you reach the danger zone.

Green Bean

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Spent a few attempts not being able to stay on the crimp long enough to do anything, then tried weird foot beta and had it work perfectly. Felt like a completely different problem.

Growing Stone

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Gotta do it...

Heartbeat

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Kinda tough at first, but it's all there - you just have to look for it. Mantle finish is fun - nothing like groping at lose flakes... The anchor sucks, I don't recommend TRing with those anchors; I think you'll get pulled around the corner.

Hemlock Groove

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Loose.

It's All Good

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Good route, Last 5 feet is a little tricky. Had to do a lay back to get to the top.

James Brown

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - One of my favorites at the Gorge. Good luck with the finishing move! It's an onsight crusher! Lieback on a great flake leads to excellent crimpy face climbing.

K

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This is a great V1 which flows nicely.

Ketchup

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - and I'm glad it did. Fun.

Living Dead

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - good fun, although I wouldn't go as far as to call it the best route in the gorge.

Lucky Charms

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - A bit hard to find, but a must do.

Make you cuss

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - good problemb but be prepared to be frustrated by it.

Mean Adene

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - great route, with good face climbing and a fun crack as you get to the anchors.

Midlife Crisis

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ran up o the end crux but couldnt sack up and finish. took 3 goes at it but couldnt close the deal.

My Name Is Mud

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Watch that third clip it can be hard to clip in and you can deck if you fall clipping

Nature Nazi Arete

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - OH MY JESUS. before grip broke

Nervous Breakdown

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - leads to fun corner climbing. Fun layback up high. Good route amongst many great routes.

Northern Pike

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - strange crux, longer draws useful

Out To Launch

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Maybe not the greatest problem in the area. But how often do you find something like this? The jump is intimidating, but it's all in your head. The problem goes easy, just try it.

Pocket Slab

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - This rock offers some good warm-ups to for the more difficult problems nearby.

Prometheus Unbound

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - blah, hangdogged up to the top of the bouldery section... couldnt make the core-tensiony clip and bailed... first 13a i ever even tried, yeah right not even close!

Queen of Hearts

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Good fun! T-minus 50 days to surgery. Damn shoulder.

Ruptured (Stretch Armstrong)

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Hard for the grade. Technical climbing that would be a proud onsight.

Serengeti

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - The upper heel hook is essential for this one to go.

Sign Route (Daniel's Variation)

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - ascent by Daniel Langdon and Eric Boesch

Sit-Start (Direct)

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Skunkape Stem

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - a

Strawberry Jam

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - for me, weird feeling climb. having to get in and out of the middle of this thing made me work harder than the grade would suggest.

Tangled Roots can clog yer Pipes

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - finally sent this after a couple weeks of working it. really hard crux and slab/moss finish. had to jump to get high feet while using a mono and a slopey gaston. with the one other 12b i have to base the grade off of, this one feels harder

The Crescent

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Good problem, very beta specific.

The Leaning Tower

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - a

The monkey Hang

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This is a very cool route

The Rapture

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Nice line. Solo.

The Sweepings

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - This is the worst climb I've ever done at Shelf. The moves are boring, and inobvious. The bolts are rusting and fairly far apart with unpleasant falls. It's right next to a crack. Just no fun at all. Don't be curious, just avoid it.

The Yert Yak Crack

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - 35 feet of great climbing to a dirty face

Tomb Raider Roof (stand start)

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - the mantle topout is hard, but not that bad once you commit.

Tree Route

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - -

Trevor's Crack

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Climbed it cause I wanted to do some crack and to get some trad in. Lot's of options though and only a few moves require the traditional crack fist and ankle jams. Only placed 4 pieces (1"-2.5") though, when I got to the top I realized it was shorter than I was expecting.

War Bonnet

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Such an amazing problemb, one of my personal favorites.

Water Ballet

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - this was a great route...the starts is fun i like to use a heel and the last few moves make this problem...good luck

Which Witch

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - pa

Zag

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - -

A Walk on the Beach

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - .

Agent Orange

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - No Comment

Ambassadors of Funk

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Did the first 4 bolts of it. Kinda blah.

Ankles Away

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Morning shade.

Another Doug Reed Route

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Felt pretty easy, but I haven't been climbing much in the 5.11 range lately, so my calibration probably isn't great.

Art of the Vogi

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - really cool movement. not a v5 but maybe a soft v4.

As the crows fly

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Did this after working out hard on the mid tens after a couple lazy months. It's a great climb, but I made it look pretty ugly!

Babushka

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - This is an excellent 8 to warm up on, very sustained, fun to lead.

Balance

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - I did some weird linkup of a few routes, but I think it was closest to this one and it felt like a 5.4.

Bear Hunt

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Found the correct Bear Hunt on top rope, looks like a few good pcs. of gear then 2 bolts. Much easier than Bear Cub if you start beside the tree, and a little harder if you head stright up towards the bolts. I'll lead it next time.

Beginners Only

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - bottom is cruser for guiding, top move might be a little tough for a newbie.

Begnaud

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Pretty fun movement on this, but the top shelf seems to get filthy.

Beta Junkie

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - very solid 10c with a hard crux at the top, want to go back and lead it!

Blisters in the Sun

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - ascent note

Broadway

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - needs to be led.

Brother Stair

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - This one is straight up and pretty cool. Worth doing once!

BSU Fantasy

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - nice solid route, good mellow start, the crux just before the anchors makes you think a bit.

Carey Corner

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - weird offwidth.

Centerpede

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Got it 2nd go.

Chainsaw

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - cool problem, its a great warm up for leatherface.

Chicks

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - ...

Chockstone Crack

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - -

Circumciser

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Great climb! A little tricky to the second bolt but it lets up and you get some good rests. Then its on again to the chains!

Clawing Zo�

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Good warm up and good for beginners

Cow Lick Co.

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - went here after my compadres went home. we were at the existential wall, right across the canyon, toproping. Andy from NM kindly offered to belay me on this route. It is fun enough.

Cure For Pain

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Failed first time, got it the 2nd. Worth doing at least once.

Darkman

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - v2

Death of a Dinosaur

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - No Comment

Diamond in the Rough

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Consistent and cool. Neat holds and just a good time!

Disappearer

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - ... rest of the climb was really fun, bigger moves between good holds.

Dope

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - THE V2 squeeze problem. Very enjoyable

Dr. Seuss Vogel

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The crux is easy but can be a bit heady for a early leader.

E Type Jag

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - super fun moves on great rock. The route was a bit dirty, but well worth the trip.

Easily Flakey

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - -

End of an Era

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - No Comment

End to End

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - No Comment

Face Up to That Crack

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Not bad, but I wasn't super excited. Might need cams for the crack.

Flake-n-Bake

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - t

Frigid Air buttress (5.9+)

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Awesome route. It really has a bit of everything, face, hands, fingers, chimney, OW, really tonz o' fun. Don't miss the bolt right before the OW section - it's awkwardly placed on a ledge up and left of a big wide pod - also conserve those 3's for this section. The chimney sections above can be bypassed by face climbing and the last pitch is stellar! We ended up downclimbing the 1st rap through the cave in the dark, which wasnt too bad. Great route overall!

Funny Bone

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Felt like 5.7 face climbing to me. Fun though

Gargoyle

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Love this climb

Gary Gray

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun route with a nice lil roof thing going on

Genesis

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Two dynos to two slopers is all you need. Classic

Genghis Khan right

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .....

Ghetto Life

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Pretty fun.

Gift Certificate

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Lead it this time , uses small gear w/ bolts . Don't think I placed anything larger than a .4 down to a 00.

Girls Do Pinchlingue

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - So fun for a short pitch

Glitter Gulch

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Took a nice little whip at the crux, came down and then styled it.

Glory Hole

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - This problem was a project of mine when i first started climbing, its a good one for beginners.

Gotta Be Tall Or Else You

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Holds are smaller when it's 38 degrees. Fun climb, maybe because of that added challenge. Interesting choices in bolt placement.

Grooverider

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - A classic HP water groove. Tall. Committing. Fun.

Guillotine

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun climb, jamming and a small roof!

Haptos

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - only solid climb in valley

Haunted Hooks

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - The move at the 3rd bolt is tricky - crimp!

Hidden Cracks

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - My first time climbing at Table Rock. My partner (John) led the 5.7 pitches and I led the 5.5 and 5.6 pitches. Reminded me of Wailing Wall at Moores, with lots of horizontal cam placements. The highlight was my first time trad climbing with my daughter! The route seemed mellow for the grade, maybe one 5.7 move at the beginning, and the second pitch should not be more than 5.4 at best.

Jacob's Ladder

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This is one of my favorite 5.8.
Very cool. Very high first bolt. I suggest stick clipping.

Jaws

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - didn't eat my hands up...

Jennifer Aniston

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - First climb of my SoiLL trip. Seems tricky if you're doing it wrong.

Junkie Thrill

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Great out of the way climb

Just Send It

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Great route

Kingdom Come

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - great climb, hope I get it clean next time

Labatt-ami

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - windy as hell with lots of ledges. exposed at parts, like the fo-overhang.

layback

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - The slick rock makes the lieback much harder. I ended up doing a toe jam to keep from sliding.

Le beak

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - great problemb, lots of cool movement.

Leader's Prayer

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - Fun little problem with a decent off-width section.

Leonosphere

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Added an extra star on this one in my book. I'd call it a 5.7 though. Has morning shade.

Lichenbrau

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - Went offroute near a rusty old pin- one of the most run-out fuckups in my climbing. way harder if you go offroute.

Main Slab

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - This thing is beautiful. A must do if you're here.

Man With the Slow Hand

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Delicate, balancey, and appropriately named.

Margarita ***

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Brutal slog up scree field to get to route...you'll want to do it in one day.

Matt's sloper problem

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - One of my favorite problems at Jackson Falls.

Merlin

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - ...

Millipede

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Very fun! Best of the three.

MonkeySeeMonkeydoo

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - -

Moonbeam

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Once you're off the ground, this gets fun.

Moonscape

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Very cool route. Nice and easy until the last move.

More Monkey Than Funky

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Got on this with ian and rick. Tried to go for the onsight but ended up hanging. Almost got it on top rope. Needs some work but this will go down!

I agree that whoever calls this 11b didn't lead it.

Never Had A Name

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - One of the better problems of the ZigZag area. Very cool feature.

Night Fever

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - It's even better when done at night.

number eight

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - nice route, with a cool crack feature near the top.

Nut 'n' Honey

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun route, did it in tennies. Shares open-shut anchor with Macadamia, but with a sling if you want you can easily tie a third anchor point to the "good" anchor bolt of Honey Bunny. Remember to clip directionals in if you plan to TR.

Olive Oil

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - None

Olive Oil

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Some topos say this route has bolts - we didn't see any. Good gear anchors. Quick climb, super fun.

Original Route

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - What a long route. Loved the rock so different from other NC areas. Perfect day to spend it on the rock with friends. Climbed it in two teams of two.

Perception VS Reality

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - nice climb, first bolt is a little high but easy to get to. pulling the top is the best part of the route.

Peter Pan aka Mini Ovest

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - 2nd try top rope

Possum Lips

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Went up this one to take photos of another climber who was about to attempt an onsight. Had to hang once or twice myself, and I half clipped at least one draw with my nose. Did I mention I hate slab climbs. Probably because I suck at them. Didn't even want to go back for the redpoint.

Ranch Hand

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - I was pretty done by the time we got around to this easy route.

Relaxed Atmosphere

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - redpoint 3rd go. not as easy finish as aqueduct, juggy but stays with you a little more...

Rings of Uranus

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Good problem not very hard if you use good technique.

Robo Ranger

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Had to bring my buddy hear to help clear his lead head. These kinds of routes scare the shit out of him. Had fun following his lead. roof sucks with a rope in your face.

Roofs Of Jericho

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Did a poor lead of the first route of this with a friend at the end of a long day. Was feeling tired and kind of sloppy but the crap he was giving me about not getting up & over the roof inspired me to finally pull through it -- Doww is right: the rest is easy, but that roof is surprisingly good crux in the middle of it all.

Best part? My friend seconds it, gets to the roof and falls repeatedly finally admitting that the hold he kept yelling up to me to use had broken off since he had last climbed it!

Roto-Hammer

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Very technical and felt like sustained 5.10, had a blast on this one.

Rotten Bananas

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Taller and steeper than most 7's. Great route. This one will stretch a 60m rope for TR and lowering, so be careful.

Rubicon

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Great climb that is really long. You don't really need to place any gear in the horizontal as it is pretty casual.

Ruby Slippers

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Similar to Diamond. Gritty holds, but still fun.

Savwafare Ist Everywhere

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - careful on bottom start, crux at top. TR'd in past, np to lead clean, start takes bit of commit.

Second Coming

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Love the sequence when you first get into the overhanging part!

Sedona Scenic Cruise

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Found a helmet at base, give me the brand and color and I will get it back to you. I we left a cam on P2 and would love to have it back, good climbing karma both ways.

Call Glenn 928 301 7337 Thanks

Sendero Luminoso

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - 35 some odd meters of sweet goodness. slab was techy, fun when it was over.

Serengeti

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun problem

Seven Ounces

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - easy cheesy.

Side Pulls Plus

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Lots of ledges, one cruxy part just take your time.

Skin Graft

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - One of my favorites in the Gap. The start can be awkward but fun; some people prefer to begin really low on the left side of the arete, other (myself included) like to start on the dihedral on top of the neighboring boulder. I would definitely recommend having someone tall stand on the boulder to clip the first bolt for simplicity & safety before starting the route.

Skull Queen

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - NIce

Slave to the Grind

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Toproped it, then lead it. Loved the crimpy ending

Smokin Or Chokin

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Loose rock at top prior to anchors