Rockclimbing.com

Slammin' the salmon

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - 2nd go. Easy after a toprope

Kansas City

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - 3rd go, still a little wet.

Easy Keyhole

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Easy Keyhole

Horseman

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Led up to the pitons. Pauline took the top part.

Clover

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Tr's after Julia led. Sustained.

Rhododendron

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Rhododendron

Rhododendron

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Led the route, and set a TR for others to climb

Road Warrior

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - 2go, easy for the grade

Birdland

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Only did pitch one, was very wet that day

Belly Roll

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Led P1, and Ha took P2

Baby

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun, had to figure out the offwidth, wish I had a #5 for my own comfort but I didn't so I wiggled my way up to the next placement.

City Lights

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Thin and runout. Never did P2, it was getting dark.

City Lights

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I followed cleanly, leader really wanted to get this one clean.
I would do it again on lead.

Frog's Head

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Great climb. Pretty wild exposure for the grade and height.

The ease of the climbing on P2 doesn't trump the fact that there are some longer runouts between good placements. It depends on which variation you take, but the "PG" this route gets in the grey Dick is probably a little generous.

Harvest Moon

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - excellent crack with some tricky pro. sustained and hard. onsight direct start with an existing piece to protect opening moves. Direct start about 11+.
Stiff for 11 A but par for the Gunks.

Grim-Ace Face

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Led p. 2, followed Brad82 on p. 1 & 3. Lots of fun on this one, the rock was not nearly as bad as I expected...but I heard that a lot has fallen off in recent years so maybe the newly exposed stone is better. Top of second pitch is a house of cards, be careful what you touch. Third pitch roof has no more piton indicating where to pull the roof but piles of chalk tell you where to go up. A BIG roof with nothing but good holds. Also, there's no bolted belay anywhere on this route, you'll be building your own anchors the whole way up. Depending on one's persuasion, this is either an inconvenience or a way to add a nice touch to a legitimately traditional rock climb: no fixed gear anywhere, route finding, and a sense of small scale adventure!

Something Interesting

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Cleaned gear, no problems. Fun climb!

Peregrine

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Sketchiest 5.7 of my life. Crux on P2 is about 8 feet above a micro-cam. Full extension gaston with a hand-foot match. I'll never do this route again.

Pulling the roofs was pretty cool though.

Oh, and wicked bad rope drag, but I ran out of long slings. Bought more at Rock and Snow 4 hours later.

Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Pauline led the route in a single pitch, and I followed. Climbed this route in my first year(fell near top) and hadn't been on it since. Nice route, and especially when done in the one long pitch.

Finger Locks or Cedar Box

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Led. Pauline followed and linked tp p2 of Triple Bulges

Triple Bulges

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Followed Pauline on P2, after having led Fingerlocks as first pitch(instead of Twin Oaks start as the original route).

Gory Thumb

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Cleaned after the leader, dropped my nut tool but had a no fall/take climb. Can't wait to lead it!

Limelight

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Followed Ha, who led both pitches

Limelight

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - A difficult climb for the new trad leader, per routefinding, but doable. Fun!!!

Arrow

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Got a little sketched out coming off the GT ledge - awkward moves pulling into that roof. Thin climbing by the bolts on P2. Gotta find that crimp to mantle and top out.

Erect Direction

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Followed Peter, and Ha also climbed with us. Then they went on too have Ha lead CCK Direct, which I totally failed off of. At any rate, the climbing on p1 of ED is fun, sustained for the grade but with big holds. Has a nice power move for a crux.

Doubleissima

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Awesome, awesome climbing. So sustained.