Rockclimbing.com

Mescalito Regular Route

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - .

Myster Z

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - None

Topless Twins

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - polished rock outside the finger crack. always in the sun. Full value for the grade.

A Song and a Prayer (PG13)

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - With Ken from Wash. Thought it more of a 5.9. If you have a full set of ball nuts I would not see it as much of a run out route. I only had one with me on that 4th pitch and still felt comfortable, but it is runout with a ledge below you on that pitch. I combined the 3rd and 4th pitches. See no reason to divide those up. The 5th pitch is almost an immediate traverse right to access that good brownstone rock. The 6th pitch is short and could be soloed. We did not do any switchback to exit out??? just headed for the chimney in our approach shoes and exited through there. Very fast route on Windy Peak. Car to Car, only 6 hours. FAers did a good job cleaning it I thought. Thanks.

Cow Lick Co.

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - went here after my compadres went home. we were at the existential wall, right across the canyon, toproping. Andy from NM kindly offered to belay me on this route. It is fun enough.

Geronimo

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - very fun, low-stress climbing. very popular. there was a team of three in front and a two-man team behind our team of three.we shared raps in the dark with the team behind us. a cross-over of ropes on the last rappel neccesitated a trip for my pardner on ascender to rearrange, after which we had a clean pull. I led p1 and 3.

Olive Oil

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - None

The Great Red Book (5.8 PG)

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - My first multi-pitch and first trad follow. Felt incredible.

The Lazy Fireman

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - good fun- finally got on this thing after years of looking at it! one large nut is good to have.

Dark Shadows

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Fantastic route. Looks steep and polished for the grade, but wall is full of pockets and holds.

Peaches

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Very fun lead! Great route. Found some gear and did our best to track down it's owner but nobody was around. Private message me through here, describe it and I'll get it back to you.

Rainbow Buttress

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - great day out- took the dihedral variation, felt more like 5.9 to me. rps or the smallest cams would be a nice addition, as would an extra #3 or #4 camalot if you're not a solid 5.10 leader. the final pitch (the bolted variation) felt VERY hard for 5.7- and the rock quality made it spooky. also- look on mountain project for the chicken lips descent beta for a 40 min descent back to the painted bowl!

Frogland

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Seems like it climbs pretty fast. Really fun and safe.

Lotta Balls

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - very interesting edging on small knobs. easy to get rope stuck.

Prince of Darkness

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - great route. lots of the same thin edging moves. With Bob Kamps.

Dream of Wild Turkeys

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - My first long route. Was high for days afterwards. Fun climbing the whole way. 10a traverse is closely bolted. Rope got stuck on 2nd rap, but party above us saved the day. Thanks.

The Singing Love Pen

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - finally tr'd this one clean. backed up the bottom. my arms are not as noodley as they used to be.

Black Orpheus

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - fantastic. Suggest taking 2 ropes for the rap and at least 2 #1 and .75 camelots. 10a section is very short.

Black Orpheus

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Every pitch was enjoyable and engaging in some way, even the easier pitches in the middle as they involved some routefinding and were a refreshing pause before the excitement to come on the upper pitches. The 5.9 corner pitch before the "crux pitch" was sustained and burly compared to the crux, and the 5.6 lieback pitch was intense(easily holds a couple 5.8 moves, IMO). We took a #4 and found plenty of placements for it. Our top-out coincided with sunset AND a 55mph wind storm which made the descent scary and arduous. After nearly being swept off the Painted Bowl slabs, we ended up at the rap station atop the Plate of Fate route(near "There and Back Again") and found signficant, recent rockfall all around the anchor.(Dangerous!) The wind wreaked havoc w/our rappels and had to hike back in the next day to retrieve them by climbing Plate of Fate.

On Black Orpheus, I led: p2, 6, 7, 9, 11 as per Handren's pitch breakdown.

Doin the Good Drive

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - quite good- take extra finger cams, and a rack to a #1 camalot works out nicely. you can take bigger if you want to really sew it up.

Mr. Choad's Wild Ride

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - really had to milk the rests on this one. 10 bolts pretty long for single pitch sport here, so this was sort of a treat.

Fleet Street (PG)

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - enjoyable on toprope. a fun scamper and smear on small stuff

Muckraker

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - harder at the bottom, easy at the top. fun crux. out w/Jeffl