Myster Z (5.7)

Fri, 02 Jan 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - Swung leads with Mike C

On P1 we encountered awful crumbling rock with crap flying everywhere. Don't fall or you'll be impaled on this garbage. Gear everywhere, but super terrible rock.

We missed p2 somehow. I guess I ran p1 too far (70m rope), and we ended up on the slab with the walk to p3.

P3 (4 in the book, but really the 2nd pitch of actual climbing) was good. Nice features on good rock with plenty of gear in the crack. Nice belay seat for the leader, too.

p4 (5 in the book) was unremarkable. The "great crack" was really just a 2 move wonder. Above that it's very runout over a nasty chimney unless you haul up some bigger gear (doubles in #6 c4s...yeah). We has 2 #3s and a #4 and were sorry we didn't bring more. Be warned!

Above that (p5?) it's just a very low angle slab, very grubby and sandy. Dubious rock. Then lots of walking back to brownstone.

The walkoff took us 3 hours because it was coeverd in ice, dark, with snow everywhere. Thank god for the rei guarantee...I mangled some new stuff on the way down.

Verdict: some decent climbing, but very little, and none at the grade. Some runouts. Poor rock. Dirt. Terrible descent. Don't bother with this stinker...go do johnny vegas or olive oil or birdland or geronimo or anything really.

Rockclimbing | Ascents | North America/United States/Nevada/Red Rock Canyon/Juniper Canyon

Myster Z (5.7)