http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/rss/ North America/United States/Nevada/Red Rock Canyon/Oak Creek Canyon en-us (C) 2005 5 Rating: 4 - great day out- took the dihedral variation, felt more like 5.9 to me. rps or the smallest cams would be a nice addition, as would an extra #3 or #4 camalot if you're not a solid 5.10 leader. the final pitch (the bolted variation) felt VERY hard for 5.7- and the rock quality made it spooky. also- look on mountain project for the chicken lips descent beta for a 40 min descent back to the painted bowl! http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/routes/review.cgi?ID=15713 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800 Rating: 5 - Every pitch was enjoyable and engaging in some way, even the easier pitches in the middle as they involved some routefinding and were a refreshing pause before the excitement to come on the upper pitches. The 5.9 corner pitch before the "crux pitch" was sustained and burly compared to the crux, and the 5.6 lieback pitch was intense(easily holds a couple 5.8 moves, IMO). We took a #4 and found plenty of placements for it. Our top-out coincided with sunset AND a 55mph wind storm which made the descent scary and arduous. After nearly being swept off the Painted Bowl slabs, we ended up at the rap station atop the Plate of Fate route(near "There and Back Again") and found signficant, recent rockfall all around the anchor.(Dangerous!) The wind wreaked havoc w/our rappels and had to hike back in the next day to retrieve them by climbing Plate of Fate. <BR> <BR>On Black Orpheus, I led: p2, 6, 7, 9, 11 as per Handren's pitch breakdown. http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/routes/review.cgi?ID=32205 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800 Rating: 5 - fantastic. Suggest taking 2 ropes for the rap and at least 2 #1 and .75 camelots. 10a section is very short. http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/routes/review.cgi?ID=32205 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800