Rockclimbing.com

Jump Start

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Original Route

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - What a long route. Loved the rock so different from other NC areas. Perfect day to spend it on the rock with friends. Climbed it in two teams of two.

The Daddy, P3 variation

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Had a buddy who wanted to get on this and the weather was incredible for November, so I returned for more (was here last weekend). Shared leads - I combined 2+3 and took the direct variation on 3. I was surprised by how easy it was; felt more like a 5.6+ or so. There were jugs and gear for the move straight up off the bulge/slight overhang and then the climbing seemed about as runout as any other parts of the climb. The sketchiest thing was the lichen near the topout. Maybe it's harder if you go a different way? I went straight up from the top of 2nd pitch by the medium sized tree. In all, a fun section of climbing though.

Did the gully rap this time. It's actually not too bad; hike down the buttress gully from the top a short distance (50ft?) and then do a short rappel from fixed ropes (at the time of this post) through two tiers of rock until you can scramble/hike the rest of the way down. The hardest part is making sure the rope pulls clean as there is a constriction point on the left wall with a chock stone.

The Prow

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Took a bit of doing to navigate to the starter tree ledge but it's fairly obvious to find. Very easy to run out the gear on this climb but the climbing is also quite easy. P1 looked really short from the ground, but at the belay looking down 90' was a bit more believable. P2 was the slab hike. Easy but very exposed; I kept stopping to take in the view. P3 was STELLAR and clearly the best. moving up around the big rock prow to where you can see both sides up and down the gorge was fantastic. Extremely featured rock (might be some loose stuff in there) for the vertical section of that pitch, which is also excellent. Weird final traverse and top out "pitch" plus a bit of a bushwhack up back to the main trail.

I think I enjoyed the views and exposure on this climb more than either the mummy or the daddy, even though the climbing is significantly easier. Worth the hike.

I lead P1 and 3.

Sad to report I fixed a gold link cam at the P1 belay. Good luck getting it out; it still moves but is in there deep... still kicking myself on that one.

Second Coming

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - 4 routes 2.5 hours on the south face. Great morning of climbing.

Rat's Ass

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - One of four routes on the south face in 2.5 hours. Great morning.

First Return

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - One of four south face routes in 2.5 hours. Great morning.

Gemini Crack

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - One of four south face routes in 2.5 hours. Great Morning.