Rockclimbing | Ascents | North America/United States/California

Carnubiator (5.10a)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - short!

Chewed Out (stand start variation) (V3)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - it seems some of the holds can cut off your fingers if you fall and don't get them out fast enough.

Crack B (5.9)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - balancy

Funky Tut (V3)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - a

Golden Years (5.9)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - No comment

Ha-ha (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - nice warmup, good landing.

King Tut (V3)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - a

Lululator (V4)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - The classics on the south face were crowded, so I gave this a go... and I'm glad I did.

Misery Chimney (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Unique.

North Face Direct (V2)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - No comment.

Pale Blue (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Otherwise fun.

Palm Reader (5.11d)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun route!

Scorpion (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - big reach turns into fun top out

Steppin' Out (5.10d)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - A lot of work... Not as hard as it looks though. Lots of rests and good feet along the way. You get 8ft to 10ft of hard climbing then a decent rest with about three good rests along the way you could have a picnick (sp?) on. Had two BD #4's 1 #5 and two #6's. Wish I had only brought one #4, 2 #5's and one #6. Plugged in a yellow alien down low too. That's a solid rack, don't bring anything else cuz you won't use it. Didn't think it was much harder than the Generator Crack, just different.

The Fang (V4)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

The Fang (right variation) (V2)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - This variation allows you to do avoid the V4, but still climb on the fang with a sit start.

The Flake (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Unnamed V0 (SW arete) (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - but fun, especially the first moves.

Unnamed V0 Traverse (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Unnamed V1 (on the NW face, to underclings) (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - .

Unnamed V1 (right of "The Flake") (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Unnamed V1 (sit start at the west end of the north face) (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - therefore fun.

birthday direct (V3)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Last problem of the day. Very cool moves that require decent footwork (and healthy rotator cuffs).

Buffalo Brothers (5.7)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun climb, nothing special though.

Cloud 9 (5.10c)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Definitely not a warmup. The top part is nonetheless quite spectacular and adds some variety to the climb.

Cubic Zarconia (5.10c)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - extremely close bolts makes the climbing feel much easier than .10c

PS: why are there so many bolts? this route could be done all on gear and only using the three bolts at the top. Either way, fun route!

Huntin' Gator (5.12b)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - starts off really interesting and unique.. and not too tough

getting to the last draw was the hardest part for me.. took a fall getting to the last one draw ];

i'll definately be back to lead this clean later!

Imaginarium (5.10b)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - The rock gets better further up. In the shade until late in the morning. The 10b rating felt rather soft to me.

Litmus Test (5.10d)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Interesting moves, good warmup. I don't remember it being runout though...

Meth Squeeler (V2)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Highballish finish possible, avoid the bad quality rock in the right. Sit start.

Newbie Takes A Hike (5.6)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Super easy climb. I practically ran up the thing I was having so much fun. I don't know, I just like low angle ramps, they are fun to play on.

No Trespassing (5.8)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Pet Trackers (5.10a)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - -

Temporary Insanity (5.11b)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - agreed.. similar to DWI

The Gates of Delirium (5.12c)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - I aided a bit on the first pitch, and the OW. I thought it was mid 11 just getting into the OW. Rope soloed the first 7, then back with a friend, inertia preventing us from doing pitch 10.

A super route. There is a big hollow flake on the 4th or 5 th pitch. Take care.

The Gates of Delirium (5.12c)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Trundle Trophy (5.10d)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Fun and long!

Venom (5.11c)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - pumped out! but awesome climbing

Warning: Laser Beam (5.8)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - yep.

Warrior Waitress (5.10a)

Thu, 27 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Windfall (5.11a)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The crux section is relatively short, which makes this route a great warmup for the harder stuff.

#02, "Danger Boy" (5.11a)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - our climb #1

** The Falls (5.8)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I tried the more difficult start at the bottom and I couldn't do it because my shoes were old and slipping. I think I could do it now with my new shoes. Starting from the easier start I had no problems and it was a great long climb. If you climb this please set a good anchor. Don't anchor into the top railing and don't wrap your rope directly around the middle pilar.

*** Putrefaction (5.11a)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This is one of my favorite Castle Rock climbs. Armed with a new pair of shoes I was finally able to get the last move crux. I've climbed it four times previously and it was pretty exciting to finally finish it. I found the little pocket with my left hand, got one finger in that tiny hole on the right, heel hooked with my left foot and pulled my self up. The rest of the climb is pretty easy compared to the last move, but the whole thing is pretty fun. Might try leading it next time.

Axis of Evil (5.10d)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - We stumbled upon the left flank by accident this weekend. We'd hit tick rock about 5 or 6 times over the past year and never bothered to check out the little path to the left...boy are we glad we did! Very enjoyable climb, with some fun technical / balancey moves. Good feet and hands throughout. Last move is a FUN top-out.

Bouncing Babies (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - .

Brewser (5.9)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - *

Caffeine*** (5.11a)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Sustained and technical, one of my favorites at Echo.

Car Jacker (5.9)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - really simple..

Casey at the Bat (5.10b)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - A sustained climb with fun moves through the whole climb. Three different crux moves/sections. Was long also. With a 60m its JUST long enough to set up a rappel. Had 12 bolts on the climb and the anchors up top.

Child of Light (5.9)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Chopped Bolt (5.7)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - One of the easiest routes on this wall. Decent for top roping.

Comfort of Home (V2)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Harder if you're shorter. Long reach to a sharp edged pocket.

Corner (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - enjoyed it.

Crack #5 (5.9)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - asdf

Crimson Cringe (5.12a)

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - The end of the route was easier than I expected. Technical crux down low

Crotalulseley Challenged (5.6)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - -

Crowd Pleaser (5.9)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - up

Diamond (5.10b)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - its pretty good, pretty streightforward... pretty safe too.

DWI (5.11b)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - lots of great moves

east side chimney (5.8)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Perfect hand-jam topout.

Edchada (5.7)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - had to leave a sling to rap down after walking left and down from the top. probably could have downclimbed the slot/chimney but we played it safe.

Espresso*** (5.11a)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Got excellent beta for the crux by watching Kai doing it first...

Figures on a Landscape (5.10b)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Scariest climb ever. Led the second pitch. Did a scary, must-not-fall move to make it to the second belay station. Had to dig deep to muster the cajones to continue to the crack above. Way run-out for someone used to well-bolted puss climbs. Hung in there and styled it no falls!

Fortune Cookie (5.9)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - sketch balls beginning

Frontal Lobotomy (5.10a)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - my partner led the first pitch, i led the 2nd. need a #4 camalot for the offwidth.

Fuedal beerlords (5.10c)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - liking the awkward fingers body balance thing... and the bomber hands

Gorgeous Arete (5.10a)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Absolutely Gorgeous!!!

Grant's Christmas Present (V1)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - and low.

Ground Zero (5.11b)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Excellent route.

Guilty as charged (5.10d)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I used a mantle at the crux and it seemed pretty easy to me, but maybe that's just me cheating with my awesome height advantage. Pretty fun climb.

GW Essential (V2)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - pretty rock... slippery as hell... fun climb

GW Essential (V2)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - While the holds are obvious, the steps are not. Very slippery. Holds get better as you get higher, so don't be afraid of the height.

Hoof and Mouth (V0)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - high feet big reach

Indian springs (5.9)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - -

Ironman Traverse (V4)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - A beautiful line.

Kemosabe and Tonto (5.9)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - stiff 5.9. my partner didn't bring enough draws and had rope drag so he set up a belay under the last roof crack, so i led the rest of it. felt 10a-ish to me.

Ketron Classic (V4)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Got it on the second go... probably a bit soft for the grade.

Leonids (5.9)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - This really is a fun route. The rock is a nice change from the usual San Diego stuff. I thoroughly recommend it.

Let The Happiness In (V4)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - But a little high.

Lucky Charms (5.7)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - especially the short crack at the exit. easier than it looks.

Midnight Lightning (V8)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - anyone ever seen this national geographic website http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/2008/09/yosemite/midnight-lightning-photography
its worth a look

monkey hang (V2)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - and very low, too.

Mozart's Traverse (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - traverse left to right and back

Munginella (5.6)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Got on this with Liz. Did it in two pitches. I led both. Really casual. Should have/Could have brought way less gear.

Necessary Evil (5.10b)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Awesome route! Overhanging with big holds. A must do!

Nirvana (5.10a)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun flowing route

Overkill (5.11c)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - you can go up the face of the bulge by the bolts
or you can follow that smaller open-book (which in my oppinion is harder than following the bolts)

accually i think following the bolts [for the toprope] was somewhat dissapointing..

Overkill (5.11c)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Pathetic Crack (5.6)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - Pretty horrable crack actually.

Pile Lieback (V2)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - easy after a couple of trys and a bowl or two

Pippy the Zen Head (5.9)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - uppity

Pliers (V2)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - took a couple days finally got it

Pump Rock Traverse (V2)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun climb at the end of the day

Right On (5.5)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - none

Scoot (5.8)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

serengeti (V5)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Nice heel-hook...

Show Us Your Tits (5.10b)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Sleeping Glass (V2)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Took me a while to figure this out. Great problem.

Slime (V2)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - i perfer pliers this ones a little easy

Slip and Slide (5.9)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun!

Solarium (V3)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - yay!

Solid Gold (5.10a)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Just trust the feet and don't crimp down too hard. Everything's there. Fun mantel to the ledge where the anchors are. Didn't do the second pitch in the interest of time.

Step Right Up (5.8)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - skip bolts

The Big Chicken (V4)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

The Enema (5.11b)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The first access pitch is a breeze, the headwall is pumpy. Overhanging hands and fingers with an occasional flaired jam/fist thrown in. The crux was definately just below the big knob/jug while the last 25ft was no gimmie either but much easier, less pumpy but more techy gear wise. The gear's bomber the whole way, but a bit hard to place in spots I thought. Almost blew the onsight a couple times.

the stain (5.12b)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Powerful moves at the bottom, it took me several tries to sort out the sequence. The clipping hold for the second bolt is flexing, despite all the glue... maybe it would need a fix.

The Vampire (5.11a)

Thu, 27 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Lives up to the hype and then some

The Vulcan Crawl (V5)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - The crux is the start of "Big Chicken", and this is V4, since sit start "Big Chicken" is V4 and stand start "Big Chicken" is V2. So I'm wondering, what is V5?

Touch and Go (5.9)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Literally cruised up this easy crack. Put most of the pro in down @ the bottom. Not a great challenge.

Tower 2 Crack (5.7)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Short, fun hand crack.

unknown (V0)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - just walk up, maybe not even a boulder problem. VB would be more like it.

Walk on the Wild Side (5.7)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Ran up this at the end of the day's climbing with Greg. Led the second pitch. Thought there was more climbing after this pitch. Felt like I could climb forever. Most run-out roped climbing I've done. Awesome view!

weekender (V4)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - it is kinda high.

World Shut Your Mouth (V4)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Good landing.

Zephyr (5.10c)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - if this is the route i think it is then i would give it a rating of 5.10d/5.11a... The one i climbed is on the lower tier, fourth climb from the right, counting the super thin crack... the falcon guide is worthless, but the climb is superb! watch out for the occasional wasp/hornet...

Arete (5.9)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Right next to Chopped Bolts. Same top rope anchor if I remember right.

Lex Luthor (5.12c)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I used the crimp instead of the pinch, this route is really fun and forces body movement.

Umbilical Cord (5.8)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - fun route. a little run out to the second bolt but the climbing is really easy.

unknown (V1)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Nice short boulder problem, on medium crimps.

Any Which Way But Loose (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Dispositon Crevice (5.11a)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - TR'd this one after Greg led it with one fall. Look for the hold on the right wall behind you for help with the move left to the arete and on to the top.

Stairs, The (5.3)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Got a rope dropped on me.

unknown (V0)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Nice warm-up or a little bit of playing before dinner.

Parrot Fashion (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Shock Therapy (5.10c)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Loved the gym-like moves @ the bottom. Greg gave me the beta on the holds over the initial bulge. Had to take a breather b4 tackling the upper delicate moves. Great intimate setting.

Brian's Song (5.10d)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - crux at the bottom to easier climbing at the top

Brian's Song (5.10d)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - No comment.

The Bong (5.4)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Fun jamming and fun descent, with the 4th class downclimb and horizontal chimney. I've seen this listed as .4, .5, & .6, so I am going to average them and call it .5.

B-2 (5.3)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Top roped this after following Ladybug up B-1. Seems to us to be about the same level of difficulty, so why is B-1 given a 5.1? Go figure.

Dirty Deeds (5.8)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - No comment

Bertie Brunt (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Crank Whore (5.11a)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - always fun. always feels good to finish.

Bird of Fire (5.10a)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - asdf

Buttermilk Stem (V1)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - working dem shoulders

Buttermilk Stem (V1)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - had lots of fun while figuring out the starting moves

Scrumdillyishus (5.7)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Followed Ladybug. A touch harder than Frosty Cone, but still probably goes at 5.7.

B-1 (5.1)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Ladybug led this and declared that since usually 5.1 isn't much different from 4th class, this is at least 5.3, even by Josh standards.

Frosty Cone (5.7)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Lots of fun. Huge jugs make it more of a face climb than a jam-crack.

Norwegian (V4)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Telesis (5.11b)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This Fun route right next to Fracture.... im stoked. The moves are great.... interesting knob edging and throws for people under 5' 10" while a little run out.

60 Seconds Over Soledad** (5.7)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Can't see this as a good trad route. Did this TR

Left Face (5.9)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - there are 2 little variations at the beginning that make this climb more fun-
start left of the normal beginning and climb up slab with itty bitty crimpers. cut right onto route 15-20 feet up. (5.9+/10a)
start left of the previous variation and climb the flake (underclings the whole way). curves right onto the route 15-20 feet up. (5.9+/10a)

The Eye (5.3)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun Climb

Double Cross (5.7)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Followed Spots

Fote Hog (5.6)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I took the first pitch and Ladybug took the second. Not being especially tall, I had to dyno to that jug at the crux and also to the next hold above it. 5.6 routes don't generally have dyno moves, so this may be the most sandbagged 5.6 I have climbed. That said, it is hugely fun and a great route.

Bad Parrot (V0)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Left Ski Track (5.11a)

Tue, 25 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Great climbing and pretty sequency getting to the bolt. Fell on the onsight then set an anchor on the halfway ledge, lowered, and then sent on my 2nd try.

If your gear beta is good you can actually protect it pretty well throughout the climb.

Stone Groove (5.10b)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Greasy chalk caked crack. A bit short for my tastes but still worth a run. Really easy for the grade as far as .10b goes in Yosemite. Sorry guys/gals, gotta downgrade this one.... too locker, even in the heat.

Civilized Evil** (5.10a)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This is a very solid lead. You can clip the first two sport bolts but even getting up to the first bolt you have to be careful. The trad portion up in the corner crack is work but a lot of fun. Highly recommend for those looking for a quick to get to trad climb.

Skyline Arete (5.8)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - This climb is a little better than Skyline. There are a couple good moves.

Bob Parrot (of Maine) (V2)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - but very fun.

Coyote in the Bushes (5.10a)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Very nice friction route. Clipping the first bolt is kind of an adventure.

Rat Race*** (5.11d)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Set up a TR for this climb. I think I climbed just to the left of any crack pro placements and followed the tiny, shallow finger pockets all the way up to the anchor for Civilized Evil. Pretty tough climb but the moves are all there, just have to find them and trust those small pockets.

White Lightning (5.7)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Great climb

Dirty Rat's Crack* (5.4)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - Pretty much anyone could just walk up this ramp. Good to use to set up TRs for other routes right there.

Double Dip (5.6)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Ladybug, who is somewhat height-challenged, led this and had to do more delicate climbing than your typical tall climber who just reaches past difficulties. So she grades it at 5.7. Yellow Alien in the horizontal crack worked nicely for her.

Left Center (5.8)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - a lot of beginners feel this climb is harder than the 5.9 to the left of it.

Double Crack (5.3)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - We top roped this and ran laps on it. Good jamming practice.

Oceanside Left (Crack Variation) (5.11b)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - the first half of the climb is easy (5.5) as long as the rock doesn't disintegrate under your hands and feet (belayer beware).
the next 1/4 is decent (10a?). the last 10 feet - the crack variation - is the hardest part. and it is hard for me at times, but i would never give it more than a 10c.

Duchess (5.6)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Easy warmup

Solar Technology (5.6)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Crack going left is kind of hard to climb if you know what I mean.

Solar Technology (5.6)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - After I followed Ladybug on Men With Cows' Heads, she followed me on this one, and we both thought it was the easier of the two routes.

Men With Cow's Heads (5.5)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Followed Ladybug up this one. We both thought it was a touch harder than the adjacent route, Solar Technology, which is listed a grade harder. We think the grades should be reversed for those two routes.

Toe Jam (5.7)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Nice warm up and challenging ending.

Toe Jam (5.7)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Ladybug, who is a bit height-challenged, led this and thought the entry crack was the crux. I thought the crux was the finger crack up top, but I have bigger fingers than she does.

Prepackaged (5.10a)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - none

Right n Up (5.8)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - We top roped this after leading Donna T's then ran a couple laps on it. Fun times.

Wallaby Crack (5.8)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - asfd

Hermanutic (5.10c)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - asdf

Center Route (5.8)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - tricky beginning for beginners (not trusting slick footholds and all)

Dangling Woo Li Master (5.10a)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Great route with powerful-feeling overhanging positions. Creative pro possibilities. Stopper cracks and horn slinging.

Donna T's Route (5.5)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - I led this one, then we ran a couple laps on it and top roped the adjacent 5.8 from the same anchor. Good practice routes.

Oceanside Right (5.10b)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - but i'd call it a 10a. beginning is relatively easy. if you climb to the first bolt you end up going way left and doing some weird stuff. climbing straight up (to the 2nd bolt) is more fun.
don't know that leading this route is at all safe. i've seen people take big falls and the bolts stay in. but all that salty air...

Taurus (5.7)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Nice line. Getting started can be a little tricky.

Lazy Day (5.7)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - none

Left Sawdust Crack (5.10c)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - asdf

Overhang Bypass (5.7)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Nice little route. Very unique route that requires some mental tuffness.

Right Sawdust Crack (5.8)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - asdf

Super Roof (5.9)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Led this climb. Got my hand stuck while jamming over the roof. Good pro under the roof. Easy climb.

Book of Changes (5.10b)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Climbed this on top-rope. Looked too sketchy to lead and sunlight was fading fast. As it was, I was rapping in a hurry. Took us over four hours to find this area. Walked out in the dark under moonlight. Good to do the hardest approach first.

Illusion Dweller (5.10b)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Took two falls on this one. One in the middle due to shakiness. One @ the crux near the top due to mild fatigue and screwing the sequence up. The rope got hung up when we pulled it. Had to do some monkey business to reach the high end of the rope and pull it down.

Right Center (5.7)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

Pinnacle Stand (5.7)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - There is a big picture of a climber on this route on a sign about rock climbing in the Visitor Center in Joshua Tree! We recognized it when we went in there after climbing it a couple days earlier.

Family Jewel (5.10c)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun moves through the steep bulge

The Arete (5.6)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - ...

The Falcon and the Snowman (5.10b)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Super run-out. TR'd this climb from anchors atop Heart and Sole. Hard first move. After that much friction smearing and dime pulling. Bolts are far apart. Time to be smooth.

Heart and Sole (5.10a)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Followed Greg's lead. Attempted to remove small fixed cam down low. Like a ballet in the middle. Fun crack moves above.

Delicious (5.10d)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I found this slightly more difficult and more rewarding than Family Jewel on the left. A very good moderate indeed.

Dog Day Afternoon (5.10b)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Great climb. Just enough bolts to make it go. Gotta get used to the run-out.

Skyline Pinnacle (5.7)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Easy climb

Coarse and Buggy (5.11a)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Followed Greg's killer lead. Had to hang to bang on some stuck stoppers. Tough climb. Much strenuous stemming.

Diamond Dogs (5.10a)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Best part of the climb is the start. Fun flake pulling till you have to move onto the face. Slotted two small cams at the end of the crack. Easy climb.

Jim Beam Arete (5.10c)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - *

Jim Beam Arete (5.10c)

Fri, 28 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - No comment.

Hands Off (5.8)

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Short but challenging. Nice little route that requires some footwork. Saw a group climbing before me.

Nurn's Romp (5.8)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - none

Exorcist (5.10a)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - none

Rings Around Uranus (5.7)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - none