Rockclimbing.com

Cheaters Crack

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Not bad, a bit dirty. Lots of fun.

Crowd Pleaser

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun warmup

Flesh and Blood****

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Like everyone said before, watch the end of the rope when lowering. Great climb.

Frontal Lobotomy

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - one move climb,

Golden Years

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Fun and easy, 5.9 pitch is good times.

Harding's Chimney

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - first squeeze chimney

mummy

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - It's like 10 degrees colder in by the Little Cheops Wall, so head there on a hot day.

Fun climb, but not an obvious line. If you want to TR, better set up some directional draws or else you'll go flying sideways!

orange peel

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Top roped hope to go back to lead

Red Dihedrial

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Righteous Babe

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Really only a couple 5.8 moves at best.

Tradewinds

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Wonderbar

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Gets a little thin after the 4th bolt

Airstream

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - I Love the Alpine!!!

Blackjack

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - First pitch: rated at a 10b, but felt like a 10d. Not much there. Perhaps some stuff broke off? Awkward bolt placement.

Second pitch: great edge climbing, worth pulling through the first pitch just to climb the second. Soft 10c.

Third pitch: kitty litter.

bleached bones**

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Tricky heel hook to start and gets pretty easy after that

Boulder Crack

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - crux is at the bottom.

Catch and Release

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - tricky crux, but good fun

Costanoan

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - First multi-pitch climb. Good fun.

Eff Eight

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - nm

Escape from Poland

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Eye of the Storm

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Fat Merchant's Crack (5.10a X)

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Pretty well defined crux. The rest is just physical. I had #9 and #12 VGs and also clipped a bolt on the adjacent face climb. So I was never facing groundfall. Never even saw or clipped the "hidden piton".

Fear of a Black Planet

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Highly recommended. Be sure to do the second pitch route named James Brown (5.11b).

Flexercise

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Hyperspace

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Second time on this one for me. Not hard but don't use the piton or put a long sling on it to prevent ropedrag. Watch behind you to make sure your rope doesn't get threaded under the flake behind you. Its a pain to undercling with one hand and flip the rope with the other.

James Brown

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - One of my favorites at the Gorge. Good luck with the finishing move! It's an onsight crusher! Lieback on a great flake leads to excellent crimpy face climbing.

Living Dead

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - good fun, although I wouldn't go as far as to call it the best route in the gorge.

Northern Pike

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - strange crux, longer draws useful

Request Chimney

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - pile

Serengeti

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - The upper heel hook is essential for this one to go.

Sit-Start (Direct)

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Stirrup Notch route

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Shoulda dressed warmer- it was windy! first pitch is an awkward start from down in a hole, sort of-- P2 was fun for me since I'm tall, tougher for the followers. Great little summit, bolts on top.

The monkey Hang

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This is a very cool route

Trevor's Crack

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Climbed it cause I wanted to do some crack and to get some trad in. Lot's of options though and only a few moves require the traditional crack fist and ankle jams. Only placed 4 pieces (1"-2.5") though, when I got to the top I realized it was shorter than I was expecting.

Trundle Trophy

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Super Fun.

Twist and Shout

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun route and very long. The gear was plentiful and there was no need for an R rating in the guide. It is just a little spicy to the first bolt but nothing worth mentioning too much. Great clean face climbing all the way to the top.

Twist and Shout

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Interesting face climbing. Not too run out.

Vendetta

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - it's pretty hard in the first half, then gets a bit easier. very fun. did it second go on tr then went for the red point

Which Witch

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - pa

10 Face

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - 2 moves and its over

A Walk on the Beach

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - .

Adacab

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - Run out from the top of the crack to the top of the ramp

Africa Flake*

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - good for practicing a little run out but not too sketchy, good learning

Ambassadors of Funk

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Did the first 4 bolts of it. Kinda blah.

Anabel

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This past spring someone pulled a major hold off. The problem is probably more like V6 or 7 now as you need to traverse left across the thin lip of the cave instead of just pulling the roof and going straight up.

Ankles Away

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Morning shade.

Babushka

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - This is an excellent 8 to warm up on, very sustained, fun to lead.

Boogaloo Direct

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - this climb is way fun, go direct the way around is more slick, and the last bolt is a little way from the ancor but not sketchy at all

Carmania

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Tough little crack at the bottom. Kind of awkard overhand in the middle. Top move takes a leap of faith and stem way out.

Dr. Seuss Vogel

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The crux is easy but can be a bit heady for a early leader.

Elephant's Trunk

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Good Hands

farley

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - following iv

Funny Bone

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Felt like 5.7 face climbing to me. Fun though

Gargoyle

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Love this climb

Humbly, Mumbly, Jumbly

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Very fun route

Imprisoned Behind Lies

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Fell a couple of years ago and was scared about lead perfect route to feel comfortable doing lead again....

Iron Man Roof

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - worked this problem on an off for a couple years, finally sent it twice in august (@ 250lbs) have not repeated since.

Junkie Thrill

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Great out of the way climb

Leonosphere

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Added an extra star on this one in my book. I'd call it a 5.7 though. Has morning shade.

Lethal Weapon

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - A classic climb. Heel hooks and knee scums and of course, underclings. Good winter climb. Gets a lot of sun.

Mental Bankruptcy

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - All bolts are 1/4"s and need to be replaced, including the 2 bolt semi-hanging belay. We missed the turn where you're supposed to start climbing up and kept on traversing the dike. Eventually we down climbed a low angle slab to some boulders and then climbed up an easy-5th crack/chimney to the summit. Took 4 pitches going this way.

The leader and follower should both be solid on gritty 5.10 slab. After the follower unclips the final bolt on p2 there's a couple 5.7 friction moves on questionable rock - a fall here would be disastrous. I had my follower leave a bail biner to stay clipped into the bolt as she made the moves. Then when she was on easier terrain she tied in short with an overhand on a bight and untied her fig8 to pull the rope through the bail biner.

Once on the summit we walked south (towards Jungle Cruise) and then scrambled down a large ramp heading towards the northeast corner of the formation. Here we found a single piece of webbing around a small boulder wedged in a crack. There was a rope tied to the webbing but the rope had been severed about 6 feet down?!? I used what was left of the rope to sling a larger chockstone and got it sort of equalized with the webbing. From here one single-rope rappel got us down. Def bring some extra webbing if you plan on going this way. The guidebook shows a different descent off the northwest corner but we couldn't find this, and I imagine it would either require rappels or 5th class downclimbing. All said and done, this was one of the more adventurous climbs I've done in Jtree, but a good one if cragging in Hidden Valley bores you.

Mike's Books

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - very cool route, very old-school style. loved it.

Mind Bender*

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - this climb the moves are there but the rock is soo slick with people using this climb so do the 5.8 to the right and the 5.10a to the left.

Nut 'n' Honey

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun route, did it in tennies. Shares open-shut anchor with Macadamia, but with a sling if you want you can easily tie a third anchor point to the "good" anchor bolt of Honey Bunny. Remember to clip directionals in if you plan to TR.

Pudnurtle

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - not that great but all the moves are there and works on foot work.

Ranch Hand

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - I was pretty done by the time we got around to this easy route.

Rhythm of the Heart

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The hardest on the main face.

Right Flake

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - not that great of a climb, but better then the left flake

Robo Ranger

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Had to bring my buddy hear to help clear his lead head. These kinds of routes scare the shit out of him. Had fun following his lead. roof sucks with a rope in your face.

Rotten Bananas

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Taller and steeper than most 7's. Great route. This one will stretch a 60m rope for TR and lowering, so be careful.

Serengeti

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun problem

Silent Scream

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Super tough route for me. Amazed I made it with just a couple of hang-dogs. I'll always remember years ago when I heard some guys after they made it to the top: "Is the anchor set? Yep. Well spark it up!"

Skull Queen

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - NIce

Solid Gold

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Always in shade, nice run out to belay mantle. We bailed after first pitch because it was too cold.

Spanish Bayonet

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Kind of neat climbing something Lynn did FA on.

The traverse move at the bottom pumped me out so rest of climb was harder than it should have been. The crack in middle is fantastic, but it gets thin on the top. Little ouchy.

Swing Low

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

The Big Bad West

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Easy access and climbing.

The Guillotine

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun, interesting climb. Felt easier than 10.b on TR, but I was on TR, so I can't say much.

The Roof

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - sweet climb, the hard move is the move before the roof, the roof is an easy move

The Sound of One Shoe Tapping

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - .

Vaino's Lost in Pot

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - After the 5.6, great place for beginners to work on stuff. Little move needed near the top.

W.A.C.

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - .

Welcome to the Gorge

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Good People, Good Climbing, Good Timing

Welcome to the Gorge

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - This has a tricky little start. Very good route.

Where Two Deserts Meet

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - once youre past that, its pretty smooth sailing. Walk off is a bit challenging for beginners, had to lower my followers down and find my own path off.

Who's First

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Probably best beginner climb in the park, if you can get on it.

Banarama

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - This is another tall one. At the top use the last bolt of Rotten Bananas to protect against a long fall. Can setup TR from top of Rotten Bananas as well.

Green Wall Essential

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - The last day of our trip, I couldn't climb V0...but somehow onsighted this masterpiece. The topout jug is WAY helpful. Enjoy!

Heat Vampire

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - This route is sustained 10 moves to an 11a crux at the top that will make you question whether you can climb 11s! Cool route altogether!

Karpkwitz

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - .

La Nina

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The first three bolts are wonderful dihedral stemming, but this then leads to a disgusting, chossy roof. Really needs to clean up.

Macadamia

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - A short, easy, fun route good for beginners or testing out approach shoes. Not too sure why it's shown as a 5.8 here. I'd agree more with my book in saying 5.6, but slightly harder than Honey Bunny.
Fun route, did it in tennies. Shares open-shut anchor with Nut N Honey, but with a sling if you want you can easily tie a third anchor point to the "good" anchor bolt of Honey Bunny.

Passion Play

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Another easy access, easy climb.

Pistol Pete

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Good times.

Senior Daredevil

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Can't remember much about this one, sorry folks, other than the fact that it was fun and I thought 5.9 was accurate.

Beer Tumor Right

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Very cool cave

Honey Bunny

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - A short, easy, fun route good for beginners or testing out approach shoes. In my opinion this one's easier than Macadamia. Nice bolted anchor at the top.

Leaping Leaner

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Started down in the cave on the right leaning hand crack. Worked my way up till it ends, and a small traverse to the main left leaning hand crack of Leaping Leaner. This start goes at 5.8 and rated R.

Rootin' Tootin' Rhythm

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - A short, easy, fun route good for beginners or testing out approach shoes. Nice bolted anchor at the top.

Profundity

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - but oh wellz

Rhythm of the Range

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - A short, easy, fun route good for beginners or testing out approach shoes. Nice bolted anchor at the top. Easy walk off or rap. Can be TR'd.

Young Lust

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - bulge at the crux was nice

Ramp, The

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun climb that obviously sees plenty of ascents. My partner came back down after climbing around halfway and then I finished leading it. Needs thin gear to protect.

Sweet Poison

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The holds are sharp for a cold day, but doable. Careful not to pull out on the onion skin. Looks like a few small foot holds have been broken off at the start. Now I'd say the start is 10b if you stay true to book and start up the true face to the left. If you use the crack/ramp, I'd say that is 10a.

The Bong

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - My friends first lead of this classic

Lost in the Middle

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - 2nd try. Couple powerful moves to easier climbing. Kinda sharp at the underclings. The last couple moves was fun.

Riders of the Purple Sage

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Still has a fair amount of choss and pebbles to send to the belayer, but not too bad. If I remember there's also a sizable flake to be careful of not pulling off. A 60m rope can be stretched to easily do the job, but knot the end and step up a couple feet to tie/clip in. I agree with the other posts that the bolts push you left a little more than is natural, but not too bad.

Smithereens

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - really likes nuts, don't think its any more than a 5.7 or maybe 5.8

Faulty Brake

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Not bad, this wall to me is just about killing as many routes as possible, so why leave this one out!

Jungle cruise

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Just another blah 10a on this wall

Jungle cruise

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Okay route, lots of fun picking up my own slack.

Super-Extendo

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This is a face climb 3 or 4' right of the hinge problem. The Hinge and it's variations stick close to the arete. While you do start in the same place, you move right immediately.

Thunderbird

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - So the climb is fun, but the start is awkward. Love the first bolt!

Must top out to walk to far away anchors.

Desert Safari

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - okay

Desert Safari

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This one is slightly more exposed than the 5.9 to the right, the traverse around the small arete is scary with no rope! Would not recommend to free solo, some of the pocketed holds are thin and flaky. After this one decided to anchor in and rope solo, gave me the elvis leg!

Hot Tub of Death

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - not gud

Leap Year Flake

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - yikes. good solo and the downclimb was fun too. and by fun i mean scary. i am such a wuss.

Medicine Man

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Started this one thinking it would be a breeze, but it took me a second to figure out what to do. Not a 5.7, but not hard either, just wonky.

Dirt in my Hair

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Good warmup, very juggy

Dirt in my Hair

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Not too scary of a free solo, just be careful because of notorious choss, this has cleaned up some because it's one of the older routes, I wouldn't recommend soloing any of the newer bolted lines

Nervous Twitch

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Really easy until the crux bulge with a fun mantle. Top gets pretty thin to the anchors.

Rock Candy

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - n/a

Double Cross

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - pretty tough for a new crack climber. but really fun and I'll definitely be back for another try.

Elixir

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - a little pumpy

Right Lizard Crack

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - .

Double Dogleg

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - good jams, nice pro good for someone learning to crack climb and set pro.

Double Dogleg

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - loved it

Gem

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - nm

New Route

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - I thought this was the 10c to the right! I was like, wow I'm getting weaker...VERY cool climb, have fun with the awkward steeeep crux right off the ground. Very cool crux move, very bouldery, very strong. Missed the onsight, but got the redpoint on the second try.

Greenhouse Effect

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Barely got the onsight, this is a stout 10c!

Greenhouse Effect

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - This is one of my favorites at the Warming Wall. Good crux move, steep!

Replikator

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun route. We had people doing this one over and over cause there are so many possibilities with the start on TR. The 1st bolt is good for some psychological protection but not much beyond that because it's so low. The 2nd bolt is right there before you get too high though. The crux is the first few moves, which I'd call 5.7+ for sure. Enjoy!

Skyline Pinnacle

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Easy climb to the face. Airy moves to finish.

Warming Trend

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Very neat route, reachy overhung crux after first bolt on sharp painful rock! Got the onsight!

Warming Trend

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I like this route, good warm-up!

Amanda

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - steeper face with gear to slab crux

Dung Fu

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - good route, better than touted.

unknown

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - This one is good to free solo up to the anchors and begin rope hopping if you plan to rope solo any of the climbs on the far right wall and don't feel like hiking to the top!

Cranny

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Sexy Grandma

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - well protected, good thinker

Ain't Nothing But a J-Tree Thing

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - Fun climb.

Poodlesby

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - .

Coyote Bait

Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - .

Standard Deviation

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - The first time I climbed it I that to work a few sections. The second time I made a clean ascent on the left variation.

Duchess Left

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - That overhand move take a bit of work.

Duchess

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - easy and fun still

Papa Woolsey

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun face climbing with a jugging and balancy middle section that will make you think. Running it out to the top along the hump, there is anchors to be had, but it puts your second in a long pendulium. Better to go straight back to a small alcove to belay from.

Corn Flakes

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - .

Scary Poodles

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I seem to remember thinking it was was bit soft and a bit bold, but adequately protected.

A Woman's Work Is Never Done

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Sidewinder

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - loved it, i seconded it and can't wait to get the balls to send it.

The Scorpion Crack

Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Pretty novel route at malibu, enjoyable moves in the first half.

large flat hold at the 3rd bolt felt flexy, might rip sooner or later. Constant stream of small pebbles exfoliates down onto the belayer.

Bambi Meets Godzilla

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - challenging crux

Classic Corner

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - too bad it's only 30 feet high.

Granny Goose

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Got stuck in the crack for a hot second, so that was interesting...otherwise pretty fun. Nice short approach.