Rockclimbing.com

bleached bones**

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Tricky heel hook to start and gets pretty easy after that

Catch and Release

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - tricky crux, but good fun

Fear of a Black Planet

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Highly recommended. Be sure to do the second pitch route named James Brown (5.11b).

James Brown

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - One of my favorites at the Gorge. Good luck with the finishing move! It's an onsight crusher! Lieback on a great flake leads to excellent crimpy face climbing.

Living Dead

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - good fun, although I wouldn't go as far as to call it the best route in the gorge.

Northern Pike

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - strange crux, longer draws useful

Serengeti

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - The upper heel hook is essential for this one to go.

The monkey Hang

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This is a very cool route

Trevor's Crack

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Climbed it cause I wanted to do some crack and to get some trad in. Lot's of options though and only a few moves require the traditional crack fist and ankle jams. Only placed 4 pieces (1"-2.5") though, when I got to the top I realized it was shorter than I was expecting.

Ambassadors of Funk

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Did the first 4 bolts of it. Kinda blah.

Ankles Away

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Morning shade.

Babushka

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - This is an excellent 8 to warm up on, very sustained, fun to lead.

Gary Gray

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun route with a nice lil roof thing going on

Leonosphere

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Added an extra star on this one in my book. I'd call it a 5.7 though. Has morning shade.

Nut 'n' Honey

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun route, did it in tennies. Shares open-shut anchor with Macadamia, but with a sling if you want you can easily tie a third anchor point to the "good" anchor bolt of Honey Bunny. Remember to clip directionals in if you plan to TR.

Rotten Bananas

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Taller and steeper than most 7's. Great route. This one will stretch a 60m rope for TR and lowering, so be careful.

Sendero Luminoso

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - 35 some odd meters of sweet goodness. slab was techy, fun when it was over.

Serengeti

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun problem

Welcome to the Gorge

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - This has a tricky little start. Very good route.

Yellow Peril

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - lovely climb... sweet 5.9 until you get to the dihedral

~Hey Bubba, Watch This!

Tue, 24 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - nice warmup for the cave

Banarama

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - This is another tall one. At the top use the last bolt of Rotten Bananas to protect against a long fall. Can setup TR from top of Rotten Bananas as well.

Green Wall Essential

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - The last day of our trip, I couldn't climb V0...but somehow onsighted this masterpiece. The topout jug is WAY helpful. Enjoy!

Macadamia

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - A short, easy, fun route good for beginners or testing out approach shoes. Not too sure why it's shown as a 5.8 here. I'd agree more with my book in saying 5.6, but slightly harder than Honey Bunny.
Fun route, did it in tennies. Shares open-shut anchor with Nut N Honey, but with a sling if you want you can easily tie a third anchor point to the "good" anchor bolt of Honey Bunny.

Senior Daredevil

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Can't remember much about this one, sorry folks, other than the fact that it was fun and I thought 5.9 was accurate.

Beer Tumor Right

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Very cool cave

Honey Bunny

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - A short, easy, fun route good for beginners or testing out approach shoes. In my opinion this one's easier than Macadamia. Nice bolted anchor at the top.

Rootin' Tootin' Rhythm

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - A short, easy, fun route good for beginners or testing out approach shoes. Nice bolted anchor at the top.

Rhythm of the Range

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - A short, easy, fun route good for beginners or testing out approach shoes. Nice bolted anchor at the top. Easy walk off or rap. Can be TR'd.

Sweet Poison

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The holds are sharp for a cold day, but doable. Careful not to pull out on the onion skin. Looks like a few small foot holds have been broken off at the start. Now I'd say the start is 10b if you stay true to book and start up the true face to the left. If you use the crack/ramp, I'd say that is 10a.

Bird of Prey

Tue, 24 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - good route, not very steep, but tricky.

Riders of the Purple Sage

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Still has a fair amount of choss and pebbles to send to the belayer, but not too bad. If I remember there's also a sizable flake to be careful of not pulling off. A 60m rope can be stretched to easily do the job, but knot the end and step up a couple feet to tie/clip in. I agree with the other posts that the bolts push you left a little more than is natural, but not too bad.

Lieutenant Uhura

Tue, 24 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - not sure about the date, but a good route

Replikator

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun route. We had people doing this one over and over cause there are so many possibilities with the start on TR. The 1st bolt is good for some psychological protection but not much beyond that because it's so low. The 2nd bolt is right there before you get too high though. The crux is the first few moves, which I'd call 5.7+ for sure. Enjoy!