Rockclimbing.com

Boulder Crack

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - crux is at the bottom.

Eff Eight

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - nm

Request Chimney

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - pile

Stirrup Notch route

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Shoulda dressed warmer- it was windy! first pitch is an awkward start from down in a hole, sort of-- P2 was fun for me since I'm tall, tougher for the followers. Great little summit, bolts on top.

Which Witch

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - pa

A Walk on the Beach

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - .

Carmania

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Tough little crack at the bottom. Kind of awkard overhand in the middle. Top move takes a leap of faith and stem way out.

Dr. Seuss Vogel

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The crux is easy but can be a bit heady for a early leader.

Funny Bone

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Felt like 5.7 face climbing to me. Fun though

Gargoyle

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Love this climb

Junkie Thrill

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Great out of the way climb

Mental Bankruptcy

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - All bolts are 1/4"s and need to be replaced, including the 2 bolt semi-hanging belay. We missed the turn where you're supposed to start climbing up and kept on traversing the dike. Eventually we down climbed a low angle slab to some boulders and then climbed up an easy-5th crack/chimney to the summit. Took 4 pitches going this way.

The leader and follower should both be solid on gritty 5.10 slab. After the follower unclips the final bolt on p2 there's a couple 5.7 friction moves on questionable rock - a fall here would be disastrous. I had my follower leave a bail biner to stay clipped into the bolt as she made the moves. Then when she was on easier terrain she tied in short with an overhand on a bight and untied her fig8 to pull the rope through the bail biner.

Once on the summit we walked south (towards Jungle Cruise) and then scrambled down a large ramp heading towards the northeast corner of the formation. Here we found a single piece of webbing around a small boulder wedged in a crack. There was a rope tied to the webbing but the rope had been severed about 6 feet down?!? I used what was left of the rope to sling a larger chockstone and got it sort of equalized with the webbing. From here one single-rope rappel got us down. Def bring some extra webbing if you plan on going this way. The guidebook shows a different descent off the northwest corner but we couldn't find this, and I imagine it would either require rappels or 5th class downclimbing. All said and done, this was one of the more adventurous climbs I've done in Jtree, but a good one if cragging in Hidden Valley bores you.

Ranch Hand

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - I was pretty done by the time we got around to this easy route.

Rhythm of the Heart

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The hardest on the main face.

Robo Ranger

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Had to bring my buddy hear to help clear his lead head. These kinds of routes scare the shit out of him. Had fun following his lead. roof sucks with a rope in your face.

Silent Scream

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Super tough route for me. Amazed I made it with just a couple of hang-dogs. I'll always remember years ago when I heard some guys after they made it to the top: "Is the anchor set? Yep. Well spark it up!"

Solid Gold

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Always in shade, nice run out to belay mantle. We bailed after first pitch because it was too cold.

Spanish Bayonet

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Kind of neat climbing something Lynn did FA on.

The traverse move at the bottom pumped me out so rest of climb was harder than it should have been. The crack in middle is fantastic, but it gets thin on the top. Little ouchy.

Swing Low

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

The Sound of One Shoe Tapping

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - .

Vaino's Lost in Pot

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - After the 5.6, great place for beginners to work on stuff. Little move needed near the top.

W.A.C.

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - .

Where Two Deserts Meet

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - once youre past that, its pretty smooth sailing. Walk off is a bit challenging for beginners, had to lower my followers down and find my own path off.

Who's First

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Probably best beginner climb in the park, if you can get on it.

Karpkwitz

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - .

Leaping Leaner

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Started down in the cave on the right leaning hand crack. Worked my way up till it ends, and a small traverse to the main left leaning hand crack of Leaping Leaner. This start goes at 5.8 and rated R.

Young Lust

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - bulge at the crux was nice

The Bong

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - My friends first lead of this classic

Smithereens

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - really likes nuts, don't think its any more than a 5.7 or maybe 5.8

Hot Tub of Death

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - not gud

Leap Year Flake

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - yikes. good solo and the downclimb was fun too. and by fun i mean scary. i am such a wuss.

Rock Candy

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - n/a

Double Cross

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - pretty tough for a new crack climber. but really fun and I'll definitely be back for another try.

Elixir

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - a little pumpy

Double Dogleg

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - good jams, nice pro good for someone learning to crack climb and set pro.

Double Dogleg

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - loved it

Gem

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - nm

Amanda

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - steeper face with gear to slab crux

Cranny

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Sexy Grandma

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - well protected, good thinker

Ain't Nothing But a J-Tree Thing

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - Fun climb.

Duchess Left

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - That overhand move take a bit of work.

Duchess

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - easy and fun still

Papa Woolsey

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun face climbing with a jugging and balancy middle section that will make you think. Running it out to the top along the hump, there is anchors to be had, but it puts your second in a long pendulium. Better to go straight back to a small alcove to belay from.

Corn Flakes

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - .

Scary Poodles

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I seem to remember thinking it was was bit soft and a bit bold, but adequately protected.

A Woman's Work Is Never Done

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Sidewinder

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - loved it, i seconded it and can't wait to get the balls to send it.

Bambi Meets Godzilla

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - challenging crux

Classic Corner

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - too bad it's only 30 feet high.

Granny Goose

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Got stuck in the crack for a hot second, so that was interesting...otherwise pretty fun. Nice short approach.