Rockclimbing.com

Big Bertha

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Great way to start the day...

Big Top

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - like this one.. tried to place mid crux and didn't have the strength so I just climbed through to the chains. Nice crack/sport style and ramps you up for the harder stuff around.

Fired for Sandbagging

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - This route has a low crux on micro crimps to a solid ledge. Then its easier 11 climbing, but super fun moves.

Flakes of Wrath

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - FIRST TIME EVER CLIMBING

Fun City

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - ...

La Cholla Jackson

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - FIRST LEAN I HAVE EVER DONE AND FIRST FALL ON

Pinyon Slalom

Wed, 15 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - THE CRUX IS NOT A 5.8 MOVE

Poop-shoot Pirate

Mon, 13 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - not much harder than rupert's ride

Ruperts Ride

Mon, 13 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - the holds are all great might be harder for shorter people without the reach to the jugs

Slab-a-licious 5.9+

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - I can never remember how I get through the crux, which makes this fun and it also keeps me coming back to it. I love the rock features on this climb also.

The Lamb

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - I led this easy climb at the start of our day. The rock quality is good and there is an old single star dryvin bolt protecting the crux, but it is extremely runout after that. A fall would be devastating near the top, though, unlikely because of the ease of the climb. There is only a single, but good quality bolt for an anchor with a link for rappels.

Thunderbolt and Lightfeet

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - ...

West Face

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - some creative hooking will get you through it. totally sweet route.

Yakapodu

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - I loved this little climb. Very easy, but fun... Great to learn to place gear... Bring a long cord for an anchor at the top..

Granted

Mon, 13 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Liked the transition from perfect hands (#2 for me) to a little wide to the face moves in the bolted area. (Rock is a little suspect up top), However I really liked this route.

All That Jazz

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - The crux would be a touchy move just short of the top.

Bee Hold

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Great little sport climb... find the hold full of bees yet??? heh he hheh

Boy Scout

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - I can't believe I fell on this after sending campfire direct...smh.

Chexmix

Mon, 13 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - fun, mantle was not too technical

Chimney

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Every move is a rest before getting to above the boulder in the middle. Don't get tricked into going too far back into the channel or you'll get wedged.

Cowboy Up

Mon, 13 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - warmup route

Crossing the Line

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - PBR send ftw.

Dig it

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - I love this corner climb, probably my favorite... Tricky move 1/2 way up, and another at the top to get'er done...

Door Knocker

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - the second hold isnt very stable it moves a bunch

Door Knocker Traverse

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - cool problem

Dr. Seuss

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - on the south side of the canyon in picnic table rock area. The name is Dr Ceuse. Start on upper ledge in obvious chimney. Climb left side up another 5.9 route until you see prominent horn on arete to the left. Traverse there and climb the arete to the finish.

Feng Shui

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - A classic 12a in my mind.

Group Therapy

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Have climbed this 1/2 dozen times now. Very fun, sketchy slab ending. All in all a great time...

Hoedown

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Lower section takes some thought, upper takes some feeling around... Good climb

incognito

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - I enjoyed this. There's a couple tricky moves, pretty fun

Inner Chi

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - One of the more aesthetic pitches in all of Zion, albeit short. Just to the right of Japanamation. As of May, 2013, just a one bolt anchor. Entire bolt has been extracted, new hole needs to be drilled. Take all the small gear you have, top half is smaller than tips. Starts out at .4 and goes to .000 for pro. I used a hybrid of stemming and chimney technique on the crux upper half. The crux move is a dyno at the roof for a jug, with a bolt for pro. Fun pitch.

jasonbecker.com

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - GOOD ROUTE

Kickstand(aka Tinkerbell)

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - I play on this problem because it helps stretch my shoulders out. I also like showing it to beginners. They seem to really love it and have fun on it. It's a great beginner sit start to try outdoors if you don't have many under your belt.

Life is Goodlet

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Piss easy at V6

Metacomet

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Good for starting the day I reckon. The entire cliff is a huge toprope area, so it gets crowded... Fun place though...

Mother's Day Variation

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - This one was a blast... The Middle section was a bit sketchy with the exposure on the slight overhang, but all in all one of my faves...

Mr. Clean

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - ... what a place in general...

Mr. Pink Eye Low

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - This low start is way better than the jump start it makes you feel like you've actually accomplished something.

New Comer (aka - New Corner)

Wed, 15 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - I FELT GREAT ON THIS CLIMB. COULD REST IN THE MIDDLE

new world order

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Really fun and classic 12a.

Overboard

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - followed my brother Simon. fun climbing

Overboard

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - My first 5.8 lead. fun climb

Pink Torpedo

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - CRUX AT BOTTOM NICE HOLDS, STAND ON LEGE TO CLEAN

Pocket Route

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Could not figure out the "pocket" move. Any beta?

pudd's purty dress

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Pretty reasonable for the grade and more of a build up pump grade that climaxes up high... then you need to control your breathing and beat the slab. Very interesting holds. 2nd try hanging draws.

Regular Route

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - I did not find this climb all that enjoyable. The moves were easy, hence the rating, but the holds were not so easy to spot.

Rodeo Queen

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Only first 10 or so feet are 5.10, after that its ~5.8. Super fun route though

Slab-o-Meat

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Crux down low, then pretty fun and easy slab climbing above.

Sleepy Town

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - Felt fairly hard not my favorite

Snake Bite

Mon, 13 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - not too many people climb this one.. it was kind of sharp on my fingers. Had to take once just pass the roof.

The Crack of John

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - We climbed this climbed because we got up to the crag late and we wanted to do something. It turned out kind of fun.

The Cubscout

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - This felt more like a 5.4 especially on top rope. Greenpointed this on my first go.

The Gift of Grace

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Tried this 3 years ago when it was way over my head. Very memorable to me. 1st go this time but real close to peeling at a few spots. made a lunge runout with the rope behind my leg above the 2nd bolt and about blew it... close.

The Great Controversy

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - the crack start is great. and pulling on the obvious block jug is fun! the roof is hard to pull but once you do its nice and crimpy

The Horror

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - There are much worse. Nice moves at the start.

The Sting (75')

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Anchors are shit, but the climb is awesome... Very small cams needed to protect the traverse. One of my faves on the hill...

The Surprise

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - no more bolt at the crux! woooo hooooo! insanely fun climb, i thought the mental crux was the first pitch but the technical crux was the end segment of the second pitch (if you link 2 and 3 which you should because it will avoid a hanging belay).

Trigger Finger

Mon, 13 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Will try to lead it next time. Felt Soft for a 10a; perhaps b/c I did not lead it

Two Step

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - A couple good moves with your feet will get you past those little crimps to find the bomber holds at the top. A good boulder problem for beginners that feels like a miniature 5.7 face climb.

U sure?

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Somebody clean this up!!!!!

variation: R.O.S. (Run-on Sentence)

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Any kind of jug you can imagine. Nice cool down climb

AC Devil Dog

Mon, 13 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - gaining the first two bolts is the crux. I lead it a while back but did not remembered being so hard at the bottom.

Alexi's Route

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - TOOK MY KIDS TO TEACH HOW TO LEAD, THEY ARE 10, 8,6, ALL MADE TO TOP AND LOVED IT. CAN CLIMB BACK SIDE EASY TO TEACH HOW TO SET UP TOP ROPE.

Band aids on Road rash

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Nice climb for a rookie. Interesting start, the only tricky move was just past the bolt. Good for high step practice and getting used to using friction as footholds! Rock gets a little toasty in the afternoon...

Bandito

Mon, 13 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - well protected. (I did use a big piece #4 on the wide section)

Bimbo Shrine

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - One of the better 11s on this wall.

Blue Bird

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - A nice enjoyable route with a fun start.

Call of the Wild Man

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - for some unknown reason a majority of the features were pounded out with a hammer. good figure. otherwise, a fairly good route that is partially ruined.

Campfire Direct

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - The crux move on this climb is like trying to jump a hurdle with a cow on your back, but the route is fun and I think everyone should try it regardless of what level they are. The movement flows until the crux and it required some toe cams for this guy. It was pretty dirty at the top so I clean it for a while. I hope it helps the next climber.

Catchy

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - I enjoyed the crux move on this climb, it makes you work for it right at the end there :)

Colt 45

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Worth the approach

Cosmos **

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Fun exposed one of my favorites of the weekend.

Crack #5

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - I really enjoyed this spot in general. Great place to out wait the morning sun on Bird of Fire. Straight foward hand crack, fun movement, nothing out of the ordinary. With Alfred from CA.

Crack #6

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - I really enjoyed this spot in general. Great place to out wait the morning sun on Bird of Fire. I have led much harder 5.10's at Jtree then this pitch. It will feel like Jtree 5.9. Mostly hands and fists (found no need to lay back any of it), fun movement, nothing out of the ordinary. With Alfred from CA.

Crackpot

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - HAD FUN WITH HOLE FAMILY AGES 6 - 60

Crynoid Corner

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - GOOD WORM UP

Don't Tread on Me

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Felt super American and got a military helicopter fly over whilst doing this route

Face-o-meter

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - This is a must-try route when you're at Birdsboro.

Fastest Gun

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Stout climb indeed..

freezing my ass off

Wed, 15 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Bolted this ground up with a hand drill.

Gamesmanship

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Warm up your left arm for this one....

Grafitti

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Has to be the shortest route at the cirque, but it was still very good climb with a fun sequence and nice flow. Dyno was pretty cool too! 1st burn to figure my sequence then sent 2nd go

Great White Way

Wed, 15 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - One of my favorite routes. It is just hard enough to make it interesting and easy enough to climb with no difficulties. This should be on every Stone Mountain visitor's checklist. For those expecting lots of bolts due to the close proximity of those down low, make sure you are ready for the runout because the bolts become less and less.

Guilty as charged

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Didn't know about the 5.10d route and just followed up the others guys before me that did the 5.9 variation. Felt pretty silly walking over to the right and then working back up and the left. The start was the best part.

Helios

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - One little mantle move above the first bolt and you're golden.

Honey Pot

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Fun long route

How low can you go

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Great first route at Smith

Immortal Beloved

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Fun

Intertwine

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Easy

Kashmir

Mon, 13 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Awesome route. Varied and fun with good rests when done from the ground via Classic Crack to Red Eye. Awesome view from the top. Also, a 70m rope easily gets you to the ground.

Ladder

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Good warm up climb for Ph3...

Lookout Crack

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Great Crack very good clean hold all the way to the bolts at top. Will be back to do it again. Not a lot of people around not well known either

Low Blow

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Fun climbing

New River Gunks

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Good fun with gunks style climbing

Ogre's Hand

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - I always take my friends here, who are new to climbing, to warm up before we hit the harder stuff

Oh, It's You Bob

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - sadf

Out of the Bag

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - 80ft route full of fun! Very technical and fun climbing on small holds. Very sustained climbing after the 2nd bolt. The route was very sandy/dirty when I got on it from the chossy roof above I believe, made a lot of the holds slippery!

Pirate's Lookout

Mon, 13 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - easy but freaky, bring a spotter and I bet it wont be quite so scary

Private Idaho

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - GOOD PROTECTION

Rasputin

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Great for learning, lots of gear placements... All day sun makes this a fun place en route to Hurricane and Typhoon... :-)

rawhide

Mon, 13 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - The two cruxy sections are just very powerful for me (had to take twice). Advice: climb carefully but definitely fast.

Rico Suave

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Definitely a quality route, did it as one of my warm ups and thoroughly enjoyed every move!

Sacherer Cracker

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - this is on of the finest crack climbs i've done.

Serenity Crack

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - the wet in the morning was not too bad. No pro for a bit on first pitch. we were the first on the route by the time we rapped there were 14 people on it.

Shamu

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Good easy well protected climb

Sidesaddle

Mon, 13 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - I like the shade in this wall

Skull Queen

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - don't need rivet hangers, just use the nut cables.

Steal Worker

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - I love the balance, the small holds, the pseudo rest you get, and trust it takes to make it to the top of this. The hold near the top is going to pop VERY soon, so don't go yanking too hard on that thing. I don't want it to break off before I red point it.

stone mtn. simulator middle problem

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Don't fall.

Table Manners

Mon, 13 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - This route protects really well

Texas Caterpillar

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - good 5.8 warm up

The Green Piece

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Not a bad warm up

The Mantle of the Leprechaun

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Good solid climb after the smeary boulder problem at the beginning. Little bit run out to the second bolt

Three Fingered Jack

Mon, 13 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Tr Snake Bite after leading this one.

Twinkle Toes Traverse

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - My brother Simon led both pitches and somehow missed the last bolt, making for a long runout in the end.

Village Idiot

Wed, 15 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - GOOD ROCK FUN

Wa Column South Face V 5.9 C1

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - fun first wall

Whining Babies

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Crux at the start, fun slab.

World's Hardest

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - ... the world's hardest.

All Hail Broke Loose

Wed, 15 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Finger intensive but since it's pretty vertical and feet are pretty good it doesn't seem too tough for a 12a. Onsighted 95% of the route after falling once on the second move. Tried again and sent the whole thing. Though it takes a fair bit of finger strength to hold onto those little pockets it's not as tiring as Jade or Yertle. Personally think it's 11d.

Low Voltage

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Slightly harder and better than it's neighbor.

My Generation

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - This was a tough one... It basically kicked my ass... heh heh heh

Rhetoric

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Easiest 12a in the park, if it weren't for the crux move at the top, I'd call it an 11b/c. Mucho fun.

U Slot

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Again, I took the line to the the ledge that is located between the Block Route and the true line for U-Slot. I just aim for the v shaped notch in the overlap and blast through it. There is a good spot to place a cam about halfway up and I usually place another cam or two before making the move up through the v-notch but there isn't really anything else for pro. I would recommend going this way for those tired of the regular lines to the left and right.

Cowpoke Chimney

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Fun little lead to get back in the season...

Crossover

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - this was a fun climb, it is also one of the highest at the wall, (I love getting high) the crux was about 4 moves still a fun climb, I am going to rate it 10a because that's what it's rated, but I would say it's Very close to 10b

Cub Scout Cracks

Mon, 13 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Good first climb for kids. Fun, and not too difficult.

Illusionary Mentor

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Fun. Some route reading and bulge pulling skills required. Reminds me of bulgy climbs in the RRG

Lactic Acid Bath

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Didn't find the no hands rest but manged to get a knee scum. Great route on quality holds. All of the routes in the hole are so high quality!

Toxic

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - .. moves at the start, then not to memorable.

Black Scar

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - ..

Lick the Window

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Ouch! That's all that needs to be said.

Live Action

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - hard glare at the anchors if you climb at mid-day. falling at the anchors prior to clipping the rope into them is likely not a good fall at all. wrecking ball.

Live Action

Wed, 15 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Header is AP's quote. For grade opinions you MUST try the beta under the route description. That's the move AP is talking about. Birddog originally thought 10c from toprope runs before bolting. Later I forgot that key beta and thought 11b when Karl and I led it. AP and I did it with the beta recently. She thinks 11a. I took liberty of revising the grade to 11a but think it might be 10d, felt easier than Menopause Mania and comparable to T-Roofic Indirect. The low and high moves are awefully technical, but I'm grading on power.

Same Day Surgery

Mon, 13 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - Easy moves, crux at top at last bolt,

Highway Twenty-One

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - Nice bulge.. That's what she said.

Monfi

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - be mindful of getting up to the only naked bolt (#1) to put your draw in (stick clip advised). The rest is all perma draws now. Only one little spot requires a little balance or finesse, the rest is all jugs/huecos.

Monfi

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - It's hard to grade endurance routes. The opening moves to the rest seem to have a 10a-b consensus, though I heel hook left and it can feel like 5.8 after all the runs I've done. I figure finishing the route is a harder than those starting moves. It has a few big moves that can wear you down, and no great rest. End pump is alot under that of Rock-About (10d); Rock-About probably deserves an 11a.

No Calculators Allowed

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - I see someone compared this to Bird on Fire? Surely he/she meant Bird on a Wire. Not near the pitch Bird of Fire is, but worthy. The bulge at the finish goes nicely with a reachy hand jam up right. With Alfred from CA.

Sleep Deprivation

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - This was a fun 5.9 took me a while to find the holds near the top but they are there, just glad I didn't blow the onsight

Bermuda Triangles

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - this was a fun climb, I wouldn't give it 5 stars..but it was fun, stemming at the top overall I would say 4 stars

Business District

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 1 - Then choss to the top.

Dolphin

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - One of the better 5.7's at Jtree and my preferred warm up for Bird of Fire. Perfect 20' finish to teach chicken wing technique to someone. With Alfred from CA. This wall gets a lot more am sun by the time May rolls around, but the Dolphin shades itself nicely. The upper section protects adequately with one C4 #5. With Alfred from CA.

Rattled

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - A lot of fun. Good route Karl.
This route is deceptively pump but has great holds. Or maybe it's just that I had no info on what I was getting on.
At the top choss band, it seems to be crumbling, pretty dirty. Tried to clear a little bit out while I was climbing, but it was a never ending build up of dust.

Count on Your Fingers

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Neat stout finish. You can cheat up and right, but stay centered. The moves are all there and it makes you think in a good way, well protected no worries and great warm up for the neighboring 5.10a. Both worth doing. With Alfred from CA.

Ball Bearing

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Excellent first pitch. The final seam (crux) below the fixed belay is fantastic for the grade. Delicate moves protected with micro pro. Gets more sun than you think in mid May.

Bird of Fire

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - More challenging than any 5.10b or 10c I have led at Jtree. Gets a ton of sun by mid May....wait until late afternoon or evening that late in the year. All fixed gear had been removed for the start (2013). I came in from the right and thought that was heady climbing to my first piece. This finger crack will eat up tons of small gear. The crux is the bulge, getting your feet in right sequence will be critical. Finally get a hand jam after several meters of hard thoughtful climbing for this grade. With Alfred from CA.

Bozeman Bullet

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Good break-in lead

Scorpion Child

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - This was a hard fought battle for me! Love this climb! super fun climbing all the way. First 12c!

Conservative Policies

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - A fun 5.8, bit easy by Jtree Standards. Good warm up to do the progression through the neighboring 5.9 and 5.10a to the left. With Alfred from CA.

Geronimo

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - instead of going left midway, we ascended straight up the overhang to the second set of anchors above... fun climb, challenging...

Rites of Spring

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - There is a a mile between the grade on this pitch and Bird of Fire. Nothing stood out but worthy as a warm up for Bird I guess, although the Dolphin is more interesting. With Alfred from CA.

Flash Back

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - No comment

Space Cowboy

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - kind of sketchy toward the top, but over very fun climb. I think the anchors are in a kind of goofy place, either way, great climb

Swiss Cheese *

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Nice climb for a new kid. Ample footholds provide a sense of security, while the variety of hand holds and opportunities to try out different grips provide practice for a beginner. Gets really fun and slabby towards the top, totally worth climbing at least once.

Food Baby

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Kind of a convoluted start, but after that super easy! Some interesting little moves on this route, but nothing crazy fun. Rock is still kind of dirty, but I think it would make a great 1st lead climb for someone!

Overseer

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - One of the few 5.9's I have led in Jtree (100s) I can ever remember falling on. Don't think I was ready for the reach move after pulling the roof. The route is not sustained. The first 2/3rds is 5.7, so maybe I was caught off guard at that move. Need to revisit next time. With Alfred from CA.

Continuance

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - The large block with the first bolt fell, so the route has changed significantly. There's now a bit of a roof in the middle if you stick to where the route used to be.

Western Saga

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Very good pitch for the grade. I like the variety on it and of course the roof pull which was fun and physical. I did a gear belay on the obvious ledge and we soloed up the short crack to the left for the walk off, no worries. Good to combine with Ball Bearing.

Wahoo Start

Wed, 15 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - What a fun little one pitch route. I like it better each time I climb it. I would highly recommend using this to start Dixie Crystals. I never see anyone climbing in this area so it is easy to jump on. The only real crux is protected by a bolt so it is relatively safe. The traverse can be made several different ways. I always go across up high but my climbing partner is a bit short and finds it easier to step down and cross a little lower.

Wahoo Start

Wed, 15 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - I used this route to access Great White Way. Not only did I have to traverse to the belay on Dixie Crystals but I had to traverse from there to the tree ledge. I personally don't mind traverses but my partner didn't care much for it. He knew if he fell he would swing quite a bit since I placed little protection.

Dream Waves

Wed, 15 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - I don't understand why there are not more climbers on this route. I have only seen one party on this line over the last three years. It does involve a lot of angled traversing but it is quite fun. I led the first two pitches to gain access to Dream On. I don't like claiming ascents when I didn't complete the climb but I have climbed the last two pitches before and only the third pitch is even worth an attempt. The first two pitches are where the good stuff is at.

Puppies on Edge

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Fun to start with for the day... I liked it...

Diving for Rocks

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Nice route. Love the hands before the dyno. Easy to the chains and fun roof moves. It felt like a 5.10b To me.

Keep it Tight but Don't give me aids

Mon, 20 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Going to the left makes this a simple climb.

Dixie Crystals

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - I like to throw this one in from time to time to mix it up a little. The traction on this route is excellent until you hit the loose rock near the top. Really, you can climb anywhere on this route and stick to the rock. I usually just keep up my momentum and never bother to look for holds. This is an excellent warm-up to start out the day.

The Pulpit

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - We climbed this as a warm-up and I had initially intended to brag about 5.10's Warhawk approach shoes. I had been using them as climbing shoes and lead all five pitches of the Pulpit with ease. I climbed the first pitch of Autumn Speaks and about halfway up I started losing traction. The rubber was just rubbing off the soles of my shoes. It is very soft to begin with and I am guessing it just got too hot. I have only worn them a few times prior and there are already holes in the soles. I would stick with standard climbing shoes for better durability. It was a perfect day for climbing though and we were the only people on the rock.

Lavender Eye

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - easy climbing up to a 2 move pull over a lip. Sent 1st time in Arkansas. pretty fun

Momma Bear

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - ...

Autumn Speaks

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - It's hard to believe that the rock was free of climbers on such a beautiful day. The weather was perfect and it was wonderful to see everything turning green. This is one of the best full length moderates at Stone and is usually devoid of climbers. I always climb the slab just left of the arete on pitch 3 up to the anchors to make it more fun. I lead all pitches including the easy fifth pitch to the top.

Autumn Speaks

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - I had a newcomer with me today and he wanted something a little better than the usual beginner routes so I chose this one. It was a little hot but the traction was good and a nice breeze kept it bearable. As usual for this time of year, we had the rock to ourselves.

Feltoneon Physics

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - Used this pitch as a warm up for a few 10's in the area and cannot remember it well, so must not have been too interesting. With Alfred from CA.

Prepackaged

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - I like this pitch quite a bit. Nice thoughtful gear up a finger crack that eases up higher. Crux move is not far off the deck. With Alfred from CA.

Seams Like Fun

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - A 5.8 in the guide. Serious ledge fall potential if, likee, you are stupid enough to lead it.

WMP

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Many variations can happen on this route. I did bring some nuts and placed one near a piton thats older.... Great learning place!!!

Reach Around

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - A nice climb. A couple of grunts got me through the crux. Most of the climb is 5.2.

Apoplexy

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - I was tired, it was the end of the day. I moved slowly and thoughtfull through the climb; it felt easy today. I told my partner about a great pink tricam placement near the flake. He was skeptical but I bounce tested the tricam and it was great.

Coronary

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Seth and I TR'd the climb today... Felt much easier than it has in the past. I took my time and picked my way up.

Head Over Heals

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Two different guidebooks show two different methods of climbing this classic roof problem from their topo photos. I followed the easy seam up to the right side of the roof. There is a bolt on the right side. I clipped that and used footwork to traverse left over the arete into the crack. The right upper variation is by far the straighter path directly to the rap. Suppose a heel hook would be another option for pulling the roof. With Alfred from CA.

Negasaurus

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 1 - Not a very good route. Easy to walk to from Hidden Valley camp, but not worth doing in my opinion. Crux move off the ground to reach a solid hand. Then up a dirty crack to the right. A decent finger/hand crack straight up. Then traverse left along a hand rail to a hand crack to the top. Passive gear rap on the north (2013). With Alfred from CA.

P-38

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Great climb, seemed pretty sustained an pumpy. Crux moves were great; thin feet.

Chicken Bone Left

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - ...

Chicken Bone Right

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - ...

Pas de Deux

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - THis climb used to scare me...felt really good today.

Patty Duke

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - We did the top. P2...straight up from the anchors. It's steep and fun.

City Lights

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - We did both pitches, lots of fun.

P2 is great, as is P1.

Bloody Mary

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - P1 is very different from P2. Both are a lot of fun. P1 feels like it has no distinct crux. P2 is beautiful and airy through the traverse.

Columbia

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Beautiful day on this very crowded start of the season. P2 is worth doing; a couple of moves and the 7 part is over. Go left at the exit for a more "airy" experience.

Triangle (5.9-)

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - THen some atypical moves to get up and over. A long reach for this shorty.

Never Never Land

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Good smearing weather lead to a clean ascent through the crux. Small and delicate throughout.

Absurdland

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Totally crowded today yet this climb was totally open. It's a great climb.

Three Doves

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - I don't like the unprotected flake. Rest of the climb is fine.