Rockclimbing | Ascents | North America/United States

Audie (5.8)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 1 - No Comment

Bulldozer (5.10a)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 1 - No comment

Pee-Wee (5.7)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 1 - No Comment

6 foot direct (5.6)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - good climbing

6 foot flake (5.5)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - good variation

Acrophobiacs Anonymous (5.4)

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - short but fun. things thin out a little bit for a 5.4 at the top but i enjoyed it.

air-ride equipped (5.11a)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Beautiful route. BIG air ride after cleaning the last bolt on the way down.

Ash Villan (V6)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - .

Beer Fight (5.10b)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Great climb! The crux comes pulling out of the cave, but with solid, obvious holds and good placement of hangers it's no problem. Above the cave the climbing is easier, but still thought provoking.

Biceps (5.9)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - '

Big Fat Crack (5.8)

Sat, 30 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - climb. Try on TR before leading. The middle is hard to protect.

Birch Tree Crack (5.8)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - No comment

Blood run (5.6)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - fun climb working from left to right

Boltergeist (5.7)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - .

Boltergeist (5.10b)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - I don't know what posessed me to get on this route at the end of the day-- when the top 2/3rds of it were in full sun. It definitely detracted from my enjoyment of this climb. Objectively-speaking it is a very nice climb, if you like this sort of slabby bulges, but I did not like the reachy moves, and mostly wished it were over already.

Cross Eyed and Blind (5.10d)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - bleh

Darth Crater (5.10d)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - This is a short, overhanging route with some bouldering moves. Great route despite it's shortness; I recommend it. Very well protected with good placements. Crux is at the top; however, the most difficult part may be after clipping the chains if walking off (terrible feet).

Devils Triangle (5.11a)

Sat, 30 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Devils Triangle -5.11a

Dirty Bird (5.8)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - I did not like this route the first time on it (a toprope ascent); however, coming back to it for a lead it was okay. Good place to warm up as the climb isn't difficult, the rock is crumbly in spots, but not on critical holds, and is close to the parking lot.

Dismal World Right (5.7)

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - This off width requires some larger pro. I used 2 #4 camalots to protect the crux section. Lots of good placements along the route for cams.

Double take/Dos Roof (5.11a)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - .

drive by nose job (5.8)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - .

Dustbuster (5.10a)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Tough climbing through the crux without a dust buster, or a brush. I had fallen 3 times trying to make the crux move cause the rock is very dirty. Managed to make it to the top though.

East Face (5.7)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Followed and cleaned.

Endeavor (5.7)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Seconding Beckett Honicker

Everything Zen (5.10a)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - nice route

Eyes of Silver (5.10c)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Hard crux, hard for the grade, but tons of fun, and great way of getting some fun air mileage

Fabio's Ten (Banzai) (5.10a)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Some trcky moves required to work thru it. Little stiffer for the grade than Vert. Alluvium.

Face Up To That Arete (5.8)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - Ended up accepting some beta. Oh well.

Face Up To That Arete (5.8)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - It is a fun climb.

Feet Do Not Fail Me Now (5.8)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - ...

Fern Face (V2)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - .

Finding Forester (5.8)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - A little wandering.

Gato (5.12a)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - soft...2nd burn

Guides day off ()

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - .

Hard-On (5.9)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - It's been called 5.8, 5.8+ & 5.9 ...it felt like 5.9 to me.

Head Wound (5.9)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - I love it

Horseshoes and Hand Grenades (5.11a)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Some long moves on 1st half of climb. I can't see it requiring a dyno, unless you're shorter than about 5'7".

Hostile Krainzover (5.10a)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - ...

Indian Castle (5.7)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - I was scared to death of this route...mainly because it was my first trad route. But looking back at it, it gave me a lot of experience. Aside from the route eating a cam and a tri cam, it was a good climb.

INDIAN HEAD (5.8)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - !!!!!1

Iniquity (5.12b)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Took alittle to figure out the start

James way (V6)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - .

Jeep's Chimney (5.10a)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Super fun route that I was surprised to find in NC. Reminded me of a lot of stuff out West.CLASSIC

Kate's 1st Trad Lead (5.1)

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - friggin easy. the last part of it is like a staircase. would be an easy free solo. its not necessarily a superduperawesome route, but I think its great for a beginner trad lead.

Knob Wall (5.6)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - This would be a great first lead.

LAYBACK, A.K.A. HEATWAVE (5.8)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - THROWS YOUR BODY AROUND

Left of V2 Crack (V4)

Sat, 30 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - I had stuck the move before but never top-out, it worth doing, but the top needs a little TLC.

Lichen This (5.9)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - ...

Lichen8er (5.10c)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - then irt eases up the rest of the way

Lickety Split (5.9)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Nice route with variety. Would be fun to do on gear.

Lickety Split (5.9)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - fun route

LITTLE WING (5.4)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - BEGGINER CLIMB

Luthor (5.9)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Bummed to be jamming next to bolts. "Crack climbing sucks, lets go clip bolts!"

Madmen Rule the World (5.10d)

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - warmup

Make way for dyklings (5.10a)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Bouldery start and then easier horizontals the rest of the way.

Makin Bacon (5.10d)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Sustained crimping. Fun though.

manifest destiny (5.12a)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - ....

manifest destiny (5.12a)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - I found my next project :) Even though "the move" chewed me out quite thoroughly, I love this climb.

MANTRAP (5.10d)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - NICE BREAK IN THE MIDDLE

Mayflower Direct (5.11d)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - no falls, which was almost unbeliveable....i cant imagine leading it- so insecure!

Miranda Rayne (5.9)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - No Comment

Mr. Clean (5.8)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - A super classic crack/dihedral line. Like the name implies, it's very clean rock. And yeah, I agree with 'biner... very G rated.

Mushroom cap Northeast Face (V2)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Scetchy finish

My Wife is a Dog (5.10b)

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - great line

Not Sure (5.13a)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - I watched several people work the start and fail. As hard if not harder than Peter Peckerman

Nude Beach (5.8)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - This is a really good climb; good 5.8. Bolts spaced out a bit near the top which adds to the quality of the climb. Clip and lower (guidebook says chains).

Old Man's Route (5.3)

Sat, 30 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Plently of belay stations, Rappel rings just out of the chimmny on traffic jam ledge

Outer Limits (5.9)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - This route should have been called "Asshang over Fournoy Valley". WOW!

Oz/Gram Traverse (5.10d)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - loved this route but what made it all sexy was the onsight and the linkup with the hobbit book above.

Point Man (5.10a)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - .

Raw Teeth (V9)

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - only reason i did this is because Joey made it look so easy...easier than going from pulling teeth into raw meat.. if raw meat sit is an 8 and pulling teeth is a 4 and novacaine is a 6 then this must be an 18?? the frikin scale needs to be updated.

Right Arete (V0)

Sat, 30 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - nice

S-Crack (PG-13) (5.10b)

Sat, 30 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - The bottom is a bit tough. Probably about a 10c move. The crack is sharp so you may want some gloves.

Sandals (V0)

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - Lots of great "training" routes - this is one of them.

Shingles (5.8)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Crimpy lil holds, and large buckets make this one a fun mix with good rests. Climbs over the buldge to a left facing corner to the top.

Shmidartha (AKA Sit Starta) (V0)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - .

Shmiegeldorfs Rock Hammer (V8)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - .

Shmiglet (V3)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - .

Shock the Monkey (5.10c)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - really fun climb

Skin the cat (5.11a)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Some sharp rock in the beginning, but the enjoyable moves make up for it. Lots of handjams for a sport route! Just about perfect for the end of the day.

Slabalito (5.7)

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - first climb in the red! nothin spectacular about this route but its definitely not a bad one.

Space Cowboy (5.8)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Fun climb with some unusual friction moves at the top. I had no problems with bottom 10 feet since it is easy 5.7 and holds are solid. I'm still waiting for nOOb to put his money where his mouth is and put chains on top, but until then I'll carry inch webbing to leave on top any of the older routes and be happy I didn't pay for all the first accent bolts that are there.

Special K (5.11b)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Only my second or third 5.11b R.P.
I almost fell pulling up rope to clip two bolts.

Nearly onsighted it, but I couldn't stick the first hold until my third lunge for it.

steppenruf (5.10b)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - .

Take a seat (V7)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - come send this thing

The front page (5.8)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - great rock

The Gladiator (5.9)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Looking up from the base I did not think this would be a very good route; I was wrong. Not great, but a really nice route that, like most climbs in Avalanche, ends with a spectacular view.

The Halestrom Chronicles (V1)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - ...

The Loaf Northeast Face (V0)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Short fun

The Loaf Northeast Face2 (V0)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Fun Short

The Patachute club (5.8)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - first lead climb at st. cloud there is a toad in the top crack

The Shallowest Grave (V7)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - best problem in town. fringen smurf

The Spine (5.10a)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - ...

The Waltz - Direct Start (5.9)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Roof was a great challenge. I was stoked to crank it without a problem.

Tiberius (V3)

Sat, 30 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - .

To Defy The Laws Of Tradition (5.10a)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - To Defy The Laws of Tradition

Too (P1) (5.10d)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Super fun! Long moves on big holds.

Too Easy for John (5.9)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - This route can go 5.6 if you stem or 8-9 if you use the face only. Short, but good warm up for the cove of red rocks with the best routes in the area.

Tornado Traverse (V1)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Climb around and up the Boulder

Toxic Hueco (5.11d)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - sandbag...loads harded than gato, stellar climb with a finish that stays on you

Unknown/Unnamed Bolted (5.8)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - 2nd lead out at Jackson, beautiful place.

Vulgarian Wedge (5.9)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - '

Whiskey Bill (5.8)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Moved very fast up the rock with three. I was in the middle belaying.

wide lode (5.7)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - .

Yu Stin Ki Pu (5.6)

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - but nothin to write home about. my climbing partner just told me to climb it one night at miguels so i looked it up in the guidebook and agreed to it.

Zavadeet-drat (5.4)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - nice variation off of blood run

"the thumb" (V4)

Sat, 30 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Followed the description and the title is right, I ripped my finger trying to get up on the crack the second time. Be careful.

***Speedway Boogie (5.7)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - This is a good route, but didn't feel too consistent.
The first section is a thin crack that needs good climbing skills and strength, after that it gets esier.

***Speedway Boogie (5.7)

Sat, 06 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - 123

*Knock on Rock (5.7)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Broken hold on the start makes it a good 5.10+. Start in the middle of the face, climbing to a nice pocket (skipping the first bolt) and clip the second bolt. Large cam needed between the second and third bolt. Sling the tree as you go by.

5.6 Crack (5.6)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Fun, easy to protect, solid anchor. Seems like a good intro to the rock in the area.

Acid Rain (5.10a)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Definitely some stretches in between the bolts, but legitimate for grade.

Almost Nothing To It (5.9)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - rough start, easy run to anchors

Anubis (5.7)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - This is a nice route and the rating is good.

Arete (5.8)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Pretty straight forward. More difficult at the top third, but a lot of fun. Beautiful area, and picturesque view at the top (minus the glaring casino, of course).

Army Ant (V0)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - holds are a little worse than i thought from the bottom

Beware The Bear (5.10b)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - First time up (on TR), I got very pumped, as did most of the members of my group. I had a few more ascents before the redpoint, and must have climbed it much smarter on successive attempts, because it was hardly pumpy at all. It was nice to be in the cool corridor on a hot day!

Burning Calves (5.10b)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - a

Catatonia (5.7)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - This route went at about a 5.5, and very dirty. The crux was only about 8 feet high and really not worth the bush whacking to get to it. Lost of dead trees and loose branches, and leaves on the route.

Center Crack (V2)

Sat, 30 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Fun problem.

Charlie Don't Surf (5.11a)

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Moves are sustained and excellent. Route is supreme from very start all the way to anchors. As of right now it is my favorite at Lincoln. This route is truly a classic 11. Can't say enough you just have to do it.

Community Service (5.10a)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Big move for a jug visible only if you have great depth perception.

Cracked Actor (5.10a)

Sat, 06 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - My long reach helps a lot with the finger crack sections

Crepes Corner (5.7)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - -

Deliverance (5.10a)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Sweet climb!

Eiger Sanction (5.10d)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Thin, balancy. The crux felt like you were just searching around for anything to grab onto

Fancy Dancer (5.11b)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Very sequencey. Tougher for short people. 2nd try.

Fixer (V5)

Sat, 30 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - something like 3 trys, way soft even in the summer

Fly or Die (5.10b)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Lots of Fun

Free to Think (5.8)

Sat, 06 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - 123

Get out of I-rete (5.11c)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 1 - This is a very contrived route that really isn't worth climbing unless you try some direct moves(very left of bolts).

Get out of I-rete (5.11c)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 1 - the direct route is henious hard and contrived. route sucks pretty bad. try to stay off the arete but dont try too hard. reallly bad route

Gracies Eight (5.8)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - back step the left wall to start, palm the mini roof to trevers the corner, use crack climbing skills to crush the crux

Gracies Eight (5.8)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - back step the left wall to start, palm the mini roof to trevers the corner, use crack climbing skills to crush the crux

Hey There, Fancy Pants (5.10c)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - interesting

Huntin' Gator (5.12b)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - should have gotten it first go, need to learn just to ignore other peoples beta it just confuses me and I miss holds. Not pumped at all and the anchors, but it was dark so I didn't try the second pitch

It Is Finished (5.11a)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - tried this with a quarter sized slice in my left big toe, inside edge, from a slip on the el cap approach trail 2 days earlier. using 'comfy' shoes that edge for crap, was almost able to still climb this whole thing. better shoes I think I could lead this even.

Jane Spy (5.7)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - First lead. A little runout and scary because of the spires make it seem as if you're climbing 1000' above the ground.

jungle trunder (5.11a)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - seemed easy.. perhaps a height thing, as the guide book says.

Just Jerry (5.9)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - I remember this feeling harder than 5.9, but as my second lead I'll defer to more experienced climbers.

Lego (5.10a)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Stay straight up at the end for a fun finish. The chains are not visible from the last bolt, but they are there, as are good holds.

Let your pimpness shine (5.10b)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - No comment

Lincoln it up (5.9)

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Good route for the peeps.

Lip Service (5.11c)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - the crux is fun

Little Viper (5.10b)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - nice 5.10b

Mosquito Coast (5.11c)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Good route with a few move crux that will make you work for it.

Nutcracker (5.10a)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - No comment

paradise lost (5.13b)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - incredible route

Persistent Vegetative State (5.10b)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Amazing. It just keeps going and going. Rated 10d in one guide and 10a in another, I'd say it falls somewhere in between

Pickin it. (5.9)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - you can make a dyno to a huge zenolith halfway kinda ridiculous but so is life

Pocket Problem (V4)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - The top out is the problem

Pre-emptive Strike (5.10c)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - long fun climb, bottom is tricky

preemptive strike (5.10c)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - This was a fun route that was mentally and physically challenging at the end of a hard day of climbing.

Pulling Meat (V9)

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - best link up on the wall huge jug feet..just a tad harder than the normal raw meat.

Quasar (5.7)

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 1 - Jon DeAngelis belayed during a weekly AMC-CT Mountaineers Thursday Top Rope Climb. Tough slab and a tough first climb for the day.

Rat's Tooth (5.9)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Simply awsome.

Raw Meat (sit start) (V9)

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - if the stand start of raw meat is a 7 then the sit might make it an 8..if the stand start was a 6 the sit might make it a 7..if the stand start was a...wait, who the fuck cares.

right of let your pimpness shine (5.8)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - No comment

Scraps (5.11a)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Lots of fun and technical.

Serendipity (5.5)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - I wanted to bail half way through this route. I stuck it out and pulled to the top. Very over hanging for a 5.5, I feel its about a 5.6 at least. Not very much fun when your hands don't stick too well even with chalk.

Shoehorn (V1)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - this is one of the first problems i tried at the yard, and it set a smooth tone for the day.

Sixth Sense (5.6)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 1 - Seconding Gini Kramer on Sixth Sense

Slanting Dihedral (5.9)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Very fun lead. Well protected crux with some gutsy moves for a moderate trad climber. I wouldn't hesitate to climb it again. Thanks for the local beta!

South Face (5.4)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - fist in the stuart/ingalls area. lots of people. very easy. lots of waiting at anchors

Spinal Tap (5.10d)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - upper not so hard

Steeples (5.8)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Easy climbing with just a 10 foot crux at the top

Tango (5.7)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Have to watch out for pendulum swing if you fall while under the overhang. Height helps.

The Bad Guy (5.11c)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Working on this one. Great route, don't know why we didn't try it sooner.

The Car Door (V2)

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - fun

The Quest For The Sticky Stuff (5.9)

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - This route spit me off numerous times before I got it today as a warm-up. Beta can be key and moves below roof are interesting.

The Ugly (5.7)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - I top roped this cause I wasn't to sure about the loose flakes. There are a few loose pieces of rock in the center of this climb. They seem secure but I would not trust them to any more than a light pull, and I stood on them as well. No real section without good hands and feet.

Unknown (5.10a)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - lots of stemming, balancy.

unknown (5.6)

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 1 - I don't even know why it's there.

Vertical Alluvium (5.10a)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Way cool route. Right on grade.

Yellow Wall (5.8)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Top Roped with Maja, Russel, and Nick on an AMC trip to Acadia

Zen (V7)

Sat, 06 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - leaves the hands feeling soft and refreshed.

#09, "Cobble Climb" (5.8)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Crux is near the base so be careful. My partner nearly landed on me after falling on lead.

#16, "Ezra" (5.9)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Putting up anchors to TR requires more balance than I originally thought, but a good first lead for cobblestone

** The Falls (5.8)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - i did this climb in college and then again a couple weeks ago. great view while climbing

***Black Pig (5.9)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - If your looking to climb your first 5.9 route at Lost Wall, Black Pig is a tasteful option.
Nice lines, wondrous handholds.

**Afternoon Delight (5.7)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - 8 16

**Dihedral (5.6)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Fun climb, good pro.

**Dihedral (5.6)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - This was probably one of the best 5.6's I have been on. Lots of gear especially up top and big features.

**Fanfair (5.7)

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - The start felt tougher than a 5.7 so I gave it a 5.8.

**Fanfair (5.7)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Fun climb, the start was harder than I thought it would be.

**Girls Only (5.10a)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Took a couple of tries to get this one started. Got stuck figuring out the move off the pocket by the second bolt, but worked it out.

**Nutrasweet (5.7)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Love this route, my first "forearm jam"

*Upper Diagonal (5.9)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Looking way back in my climbing log, I guess I had climbed Upper Diagonal before, although I didn't remember until much later. But on this occasion we got to the crag late and by time we set up the anchors, it was dark. So I had my first experience in night climbing. Very cool!!!

*Walk By Me (5.7)

Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Good route. A few crimps, but generally good.

-- (5.7)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - None

3rd Crack (5.7)

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 1 - Belayed by James of the AMT-CT Mountaineers. Good climb. Solid, clean ascent.

Aid Route (A2+)

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Solo ascent, using a silent partner, Had one piece blow, but was transferring to another good piece so I didn't fall. It's all pin scarred, I didn't have much gear for such a thin crack so was left getting creative with Nuts and my one small cam. Great Clean Aid, will definitely do it again to get better at clean aid.

Amphitheater Traverse (V0)

Sat, 06 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - do a couple laps great arm pump

Anarchy Rules (5.12b)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - 1st try of the day, 4th overall. kinda pumpy!

Anatomic (5.12c)

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - 1st try of the day, 4th try overall, spread over 2 days

Angel Dust (5.7)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Hard start transition from corner to face. Easy on grade after that.

Apple Cider (5.8)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Some awkward moves on big flakes make this climb, then a tough chimney finish.

Aqualung (5.10b)

Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - really good route- get on it!

Art of the Vogi (V5)

Sat, 30 Aug 2008 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - pretty soft, but still quite fun with a heady topout