Rockclimbing.com

Normalised Bramapithecus

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Interesting roof to start, I would not have wanted to do this without the first bolt clipped.

10+

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

11+

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

A Face in the Crowd [Out of Africa]

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - stayed on because i didnt want to have to try again

Cheaters Crack

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Not bad, a bit dirty. Lots of fun.

Clutch and cruise

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - like the name implies. great overhanging sketchy start, good through the end.

Crowd Pleaser

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun warmup

Dirty Bitch

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - good problem very simple.

Dragon Slayer

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Expect to pass out when you reach the top. A hard 5.12d crux at the bottom followed by 40 feet of sustained 5.11 followed by a final 20 foot overhanging 5.11c crux with only two poorly positioned rests will make you cry for mercy.

First Time

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Flesh Tuxedo

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - This is a fantastic climb. The beginning is a fun jug haul then a little technical in the middle and a great finish. The roof is intimidating from below but not that bad.

Frontal Lobotomy

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - one move climb,

gold rush

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - first 6 bolts clean
took right before the crux, took a couple times to trust the crimps to a mini dyno
the finish is more than interesting

Guardian Angel

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This one is a little scary on lead. Always moving left of your last bolt.

Hair Today Gone Tomorrow

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - One of my favorites in the gap. Two distinct ways to go up it (that I know of): first and most popular is staying to the left on the main face of the route then coming back to the right before going over the roof.

The second way (and now my favorite way) is to stay right / middle the whole time; it doesn't look like it will be any nicer than the left route but in my opinion it's not only easier but it has a really fun move in it to boot!

Harding's Chimney

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - first squeeze chimney

heel hook prob

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - gets ur head in the game, good warm up

immaculate deception

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - with hanging the draws.

jesus wept

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - 11/09 did some pretty ugly hangdogging and innovative clipping but i pulled the moves.. its a long way off bt it will go down. one day...

Jumpin' Jack Flash

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - worst climb ever

Mescalito Regular Route

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - .

Myster Z

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - None

No Man's Land

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Prototype

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - One of my alltime favorite routes. wish i had more trouble with it so i could have worked it but it is tones of fun... stay to the right at the anchors

Red Dihedrial

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Slice of Death

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Hard dedpoint followed by another 12a crux.

Sno-White

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This is a pretty fun route and rather easy once you know where the key holds are. Starts with a crack/corner, goes around a bulge and up to a ledge, then over the overhang to the finish. Took me some searching, but everything up top is within arms reach.

Southern Slab Route

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - Easy Climbing. Pro was ok

supercrack

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - A bit big for my hands.

Teeter Totter

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - There were several moves that felt quite difficult for the grade, especially one near the top. It was hard to figure out the move and commit to it. Looks like it is somewhat height-dependent. But on the other hand, there was no pump factor, so I could take my time figuring it out. I was definitely glad that someone else hung the draws though.

To Defy The Laws Of Tradition

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Tradewinds

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Unknown

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - one move v5

White Fandango

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I liked this one.

Wonderbar

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Gets a little thin after the 4th bolt

mistaken Identity

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Ascent Note

o. p. p.

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - the loose looking block 2 moves in is not on. Use the crips to the left of the loose block.

3 Stacks Arete

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

5th Bolt Faith

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I knew where the bolt was but didn't trust myself to get there. Took a couple falls going for 5th bolt, redpoint on 2nd try. Not a single move on this climb is harder than the bottom of Plate Tectonics.

8 Flake

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Great warm up nice and long...fun route sucks to clean on the way down...some rope drag because of all the clips

Agent Orange

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Pinkpoint, actually. Took a whip on my first try - a fun whip, at that - and left my gear on the route to get back on it later in the day. Great line with great climbing.

Agent Orange

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Agent Orange

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Agent Orange Direct

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Airstream

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - I Love the Alpine!!!

All the Pretty Horses

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The rest about 2/3rds of the way up definitely helped. I was able to wrap my arms around it and shake out, but then made a move up and discovered that it was even better rest if used as a sideways foot/leg jam. Almost hands-free that way.

Almost Nothing To It

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - a

Antonian

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Nice warm up for the surrounding climbs

Arete V1

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Slightly more fun than Pocket Slab.

Arete V3

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Decent problem. Required more core tension than I expected.

Astro Projection

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Black Beard

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Black Tide

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Easy climbing initially leads to a crux-y top section, with a wild stem to the anchor. This was a difficult route to clean thoroughly because of the ledge. Should have cleaned up nicely by now with many feet and hands on it every weekend. An amazing vantage point to view and photograph climbers on Espresso.

bleached bones**

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Tricky heel hook to start and gets pretty easy after that

Boink

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This and all the problems in this area are so much fun to do at night...

Boogie Woogie

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - good easy problem.

Boulder Crack

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - crux is at the bottom.

Bridge Arete

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Not as straightforward as it looks

Broken Finger

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

bumboy

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Once I got the beta, it was no problem. Before that...not so easy.

Catatonia

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - -

Catch and Release

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - tricky crux, but good fun

Claw Marks

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - -

Climb B

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Onsighted it the other day, a lot of fun, but relatively easy.

Cold Fusion

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - A good climb. The business is down low.

Corner

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I thought this was easier than V4, but very fun nevertheless.

Crimp Creole

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Crimp Scampi

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Best for its grade. Realy thin moves and alot of fun.

Cullman 2

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - ...

Curiosity

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Despite the hike this route is a lot of fun and the spectacular view is well worth it. Make this one of the last climbs of the day because the hike will drain your energy supply.

DaVinci's Left Ear

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun not too bad with some interesting underclings

Dead Cats

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The first part of this route is easy about a 5.9 but near the anchors it becomes very slopie and becomes that 5.10

Dig Dug

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Auwsome problemb, lots of different ways to do it.

Direct drive

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Dr. Feelgood

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - good route fun move

Dream On

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - good sequence for the crux

Dwarf

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - A must-do if you're here. The mantle is very fun.

Eff Eight

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - nm

Escape from Poland

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Eye of the Storm

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Eyeless in Gaza

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Fear Factor

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Fear of a Black Planet

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Highly recommended. Be sure to do the second pitch route named James Brown (5.11b).

Gased On This

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I'm not sure on the grade for this. The problem overall was not that difficult for me, but the opening move is pretty powerful.

Gettin' Lucky In Kentucky

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I enjoyed it, the moves to the anchors were nifty. However, I'm not sure why this is a 5* climb. Not to say it wasn't good, but not necessarily one of the absolute best 10's at the Red. 5th Bolt Faith was just as fun, and that's only given 3*.

Gill Traverse

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Pretty fun traverse. The business happens before you reach the danger zone.

Girls Gone Wild... WOO!

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Growing Stone

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Gotta do it...

Hemlock Groove

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Loose.

Hornball

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - fun long move. lots of variations/eliminates. the horn is a little sharp--esp. considering the length of the move...

Indecent Proposal

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Awesome! Great climb to onsight on a cold November day for someone that barely leads the grade. :) Actually, this climb/wall receives good sun and warms up nicely. The strenous barn door start above a steep gully make the climb even better. A bit of relief sets in upon reaching the flake, but the climb ain't over here and getting up the flake ain't childs play. I loved this climb and will be climbing it again.

Invisible man

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

It's All Good

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Good route, Last 5 feet is a little tricky. Had to do a lay back to get to the top.

James Brown

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - One of my favorites at the Gorge. Good luck with the finishing move! It's an onsight crusher! Lieback on a great flake leads to excellent crimpy face climbing.

K

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This is a great V1 which flows nicely.

k.b. problem

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Ketchup

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - and I'm glad it did. Fun.

Kill your Television

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Living Dead

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - good fun, although I wouldn't go as far as to call it the best route in the gorge.

Lucky Charms

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - A bit hard to find, but a must do.

Make you cuss

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - good problemb but be prepared to be frustrated by it.

Mean Adene

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - great route, with good face climbing and a fun crack as you get to the anchors.

Mellifluous

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - A great pitch, throws a little bit of just about everything at you in 100 feet. The thin low-angled crux caught me off guard, I thought that the hardest climbing would be the low crack or the orange corner up high. Brilliant climbing from bottom to top. My partner could not clean a #3 BD brassie at the crux - sorry to the locals for denigrating this otherwise pure trad climb. On the other hand, now there's a fixed nut at the crux - no excuses not to try this one!

Midlife Crisis

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ran up o the end crux but couldnt sack up and finish. took 3 goes at it but couldnt close the deal.

Mithras

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Mr. Workman's Crack

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Onsight but fiddled with the gear a bit too much. Rusty at putting widgets in.

Mud and Guts

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Sent after 1 hanging Just Send it twice today. I felt the need to get up something after falling and dogging for 3 straight climbing sessions. Projecting kinda sucks!

My Name Is Mud

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Watch that third clip it can be hard to clip in and you can deck if you fall clipping

Nature Nazi Arete

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - OH MY JESUS. before grip broke

Nervous Breakdown

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - leads to fun corner climbing. Fun layback up high. Good route amongst many great routes.

New Generation

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Northern Pike

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - strange crux, longer draws useful

Now or Later

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - a good, often overlooked problem

Out To Launch

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Maybe not the greatest problem in the area. But how often do you find something like this? The jump is intimidating, but it's all in your head. The problem goes easy, just try it.

Pocket Slab

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - This rock offers some good warm-ups to for the more difficult problems nearby.

Power Ranger

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun moves getting around the lip.

Prometheus Unbound

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - blah, hangdogged up to the top of the bouldery section... couldnt make the core-tensiony clip and bailed... first 13a i ever even tried, yeah right not even close!

Promised

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Found some hidden holds on the onsight. Some I saw when I was above them. Oh well. Really fun. Decent gear and good climbing. Traversed in from the right after clipping the bolt on the mixed route. Not the standard start, but still a lot of fun.

Queen of Hearts

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Good fun! T-minus 50 days to surgery. Damn shoulder.

Rambo Direct

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

random presicion

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - every move is interesting

Red Rover

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Somewhat crumbly rock.

Request Chimney

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - pile

Resuscitation of a Hanged Man

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Couple cruxy sections, but not a defined crux, same movement all the way up, good shake-out holds, but they aren't obvious from below, so I just have to keep going and trust that if this hold is not great, the next one would be--- or the one after it, anyway.

One hang at the end of the day. I'll come back to do it clean.

Romper Room

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Roofing Madness

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Ruptured (Stretch Armstrong)

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Hard for the grade. Technical climbing that would be a proud onsight.

Serengeti

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - The upper heel hook is essential for this one to go.

Sign Route (Daniel's Variation)

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - ascent by Daniel Langdon and Eric Boesch

Sit-Start (Direct)

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Six Gun Sally

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Don't fall at the third bolt.

Skunkape Stem

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - a

Slap Jack

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - one of the better problems at lilly

Stirrup Notch route

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Shoulda dressed warmer- it was windy! first pitch is an awkward start from down in a hole, sort of-- P2 was fun for me since I'm tall, tougher for the followers. Great little summit, bolts on top.

Strawberry Jam

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - for me, weird feeling climb. having to get in and out of the middle of this thing made me work harder than the grade would suggest.

Tangled Roots can clog yer Pipes

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - finally sent this after a couple weeks of working it. really hard crux and slab/moss finish. had to jump to get high feet while using a mono and a slopey gaston. with the one other 12b i have to base the grade off of, this one feels harder

The Argonaut

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

The Crescent

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Good problem, very beta specific.

The Leaning Tower

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - a

The monkey Hang

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This is a very cool route

The Rapture

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Nice line. Solo.

The Sweepings

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - This is the worst climb I've ever done at Shelf. The moves are boring, and inobvious. The bolts are rusting and fairly far apart with unpleasant falls. It's right next to a crack. Just no fun at all. Don't be curious, just avoid it.

The Yert Yak Crack

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - 35 feet of great climbing to a dirty face

Time Takes a Cigarette

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - A circus act/novelty route much like Open Casket, Can of Worms, or Airborne. Was alot cleaner than I thought it would be and there is definitely some good moves to pull on the way up to the roof and traversing out the roof. Give it a try if you are bored

Tomb Raider Roof (stand start)

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - the mantle topout is hard, but not that bad once you commit.

Topless Twins

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - polished rock outside the finger crack. always in the sun. Full value for the grade.

Tracer

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Tree Route

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - no notes

Tree Route

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - -

Trevor's Crack

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Climbed it cause I wanted to do some crack and to get some trad in. Lot's of options though and only a few moves require the traditional crack fist and ankle jams. Only placed 4 pieces (1"-2.5") though, when I got to the top I realized it was shorter than I was expecting.

Twist and Shout

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Interesting face climbing. Not too run out.

War Bonnet

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Such an amazing problemb, one of my personal favorites.

Water Ballet

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - this was a great route...the starts is fun i like to use a heel and the last few moves make this problem...good luck

Which is which?

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - I was mightily proud of myself for not wimping out on the first steep section, and sticking a little dyno after the 3rd bolt. There are couple of no-hands rests in the top section, making it very casual compared to the starting headwall. But I managed to mess up the sequence at the last bolt, tried to clip from way low, wasted a lot of energy on it, and took a fall. Next time!

Which Witch

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - pa

who let the snakes out

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - thanks for another great line phillip.

Who pooped in the park?

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I would have called this 5.11c. This is Muir Valley responce to all the accusations of soft grading. This route makes up for it.

Yellow Matter Custard

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Zag

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - -

10 Face

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - 2 moves and its over

100 Years of Solitude

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - downgraded to 11a on RRClimbing.com. muir tag says 11b which is totally soft.

either way it was a really fun route. liked the low crux alot.

A Walk on the Beach

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - .

Africa Flake*

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - good for practicing a little run out but not too sketchy, good learning

Agent Orange

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - No Comment

Ambassadors of Funk

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Did the first 4 bolts of it. Kinda blah.

Anabel

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This past spring someone pulled a major hold off. The problem is probably more like V6 or 7 now as you need to traverse left across the thin lip of the cave instead of just pulling the roof and going straight up.

Ankles Away

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Morning shade.

Another Doug Reed Route

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Felt pretty easy, but I haven't been climbing much in the 5.11 range lately, so my calibration probably isn't great.

Art of the Vogi

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - really cool movement. not a v5 but maybe a soft v4.

As the crows fly

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Did this after working out hard on the mid tens after a couple lazy months. It's a great climb, but I made it look pretty ugly!

Babushka

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - This is an excellent 8 to warm up on, very sustained, fun to lead.

Balance

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - I did some weird linkup of a few routes, but I think it was closest to this one and it felt like a 5.4.

Bear Hunt

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Found the correct Bear Hunt on top rope, looks like a few good pcs. of gear then 2 bolts. Much easier than Bear Cub if you start beside the tree, and a little harder if you head stright up towards the bolts. I'll lead it next time.

Beginners Only

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - bottom is cruser for guiding, top move might be a little tough for a newbie.

Begnaud

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Pretty fun movement on this, but the top shelf seems to get filthy.

Beta Junkie

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - very solid 10c with a hard crux at the top, want to go back and lead it!

Bizarro

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - about 4 months ago when i had just started leading, i was top-ing out of this one and i said "take" instead of "watch me" Rick Roper pulled me right off the wall. haha. my first fall. and that was pre-belay device times for me, so im glad my nigger rigged 4 biners worked :) cake to finish now.

Blisters in the Sun

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - ascent note

Boogaloo Direct

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - this climb is way fun, go direct the way around is more slick, and the last bolt is a little way from the ancor but not sketchy at all

Broadway

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - needs to be led.

Brother Stair

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - This one is straight up and pretty cool. Worth doing once!

BSU Fantasy

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - nice solid route, good mellow start, the crux just before the anchors makes you think a bit.

Budda's Belly

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - silly grundle problem.

Carey Corner

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - weird offwidth.

Carmania

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Tough little crack at the bottom. Kind of awkard overhand in the middle. Top move takes a leap of faith and stem way out.

Centerpede

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Got it 2nd go.

Chainsaw

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - cool problem, its a great warm up for leatherface.

Chicks

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - ...

Chockstone Crack

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - no notes

Chockstone Crack

Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - -

Christine

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - good stuff

Circumciser

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Great climb! A little tricky to the second bolt but it lets up and you get some good rests. Then its on again to the chains!

Clawing Zo�

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Good warm up and good for beginners

Cokes and Crowbars

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun, somewhat pumpy route

Cow Lick Co.

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - went here after my compadres went home. we were at the existential wall, right across the canyon, toproping. Andy from NM kindly offered to belay me on this route. It is fun enough.

Cure For Pain

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Failed first time, got it the 2nd. Worth doing at least once.

Darkman

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - v2

Death of a Dinosaur

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - No Comment

Diamond in the Rough

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Consistent and cool. Neat holds and just a good time!

Disappearer

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - ... rest of the climb was really fun, bigger moves between good holds.