Rockclimbing.com

Normalised Bramapithecus

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Interesting roof to start, I would not have wanted to do this without the first bolt clipped.

First Time

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

gold rush

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - first 6 bolts clean
took right before the crux, took a couple times to trust the crimps to a mini dyno
the finish is more than interesting

immaculate deception

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - with hanging the draws.

jesus wept

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - 11/09 did some pretty ugly hangdogging and innovative clipping but i pulled the moves.. its a long way off bt it will go down. one day...

Teeter Totter

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - There were several moves that felt quite difficult for the grade, especially one near the top. It was hard to figure out the move and commit to it. Looks like it is somewhat height-dependent. But on the other hand, there was no pump factor, so I could take my time figuring it out. I was definitely glad that someone else hung the draws though.

To Defy The Laws Of Tradition

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

5th Bolt Faith

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I knew where the bolt was but didn't trust myself to get there. Took a couple falls going for 5th bolt, redpoint on 2nd try. Not a single move on this climb is harder than the bottom of Plate Tectonics.

All the Pretty Horses

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The rest about 2/3rds of the way up definitely helped. I was able to wrap my arms around it and shake out, but then made a move up and discovered that it was even better rest if used as a sideways foot/leg jam. Almost hands-free that way.

Curiosity

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Despite the hike this route is a lot of fun and the spectacular view is well worth it. Make this one of the last climbs of the day because the hike will drain your energy supply.

DaVinci's Left Ear

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun not too bad with some interesting underclings

Gettin' Lucky In Kentucky

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I enjoyed it, the moves to the anchors were nifty. However, I'm not sure why this is a 5* climb. Not to say it wasn't good, but not necessarily one of the absolute best 10's at the Red. 5th Bolt Faith was just as fun, and that's only given 3*.

Girls Gone Wild... WOO!

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Midlife Crisis

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ran up o the end crux but couldnt sack up and finish. took 3 goes at it but couldnt close the deal.

Prometheus Unbound

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - blah, hangdogged up to the top of the bouldery section... couldnt make the core-tensiony clip and bailed... first 13a i ever even tried, yeah right not even close!

random presicion

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - every move is interesting

Red Rover

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Somewhat crumbly rock.

Resuscitation of a Hanged Man

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Couple cruxy sections, but not a defined crux, same movement all the way up, good shake-out holds, but they aren't obvious from below, so I just have to keep going and trust that if this hold is not great, the next one would be--- or the one after it, anyway.

One hang at the end of the day. I'll come back to do it clean.

Which is which?

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - I was mightily proud of myself for not wimping out on the first steep section, and sticking a little dyno after the 3rd bolt. There are couple of no-hands rests in the top section, making it very casual compared to the starting headwall. But I managed to mess up the sequence at the last bolt, tried to clip from way low, wasted a lot of energy on it, and took a fall. Next time!

Who pooped in the park?

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I would have called this 5.11c. This is Muir Valley responce to all the accusations of soft grading. This route makes up for it.

100 Years of Solitude

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - downgraded to 11a on RRClimbing.com. muir tag says 11b which is totally soft.

either way it was a really fun route. liked the low crux alot.

Another Doug Reed Route

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Felt pretty easy, but I haven't been climbing much in the 5.11 range lately, so my calibration probably isn't great.

Brother Stair

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - This one is straight up and pretty cool. Worth doing once!

Diamond in the Rough

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Consistent and cool. Neat holds and just a good time!

Disappearer

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - ... rest of the climb was really fun, bigger moves between good holds.

Face Up to That Crack

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Not bad, but I wasn't super excited. Might need cams for the crack.

Make a Wish

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - good warm up

Moonbeam

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Once you're off the ground, this gets fun.

Possum Lips

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Went up this one to take photos of another climber who was about to attempt an onsight. Had to hang once or twice myself, and I half clipped at least one draw with my nose. Did I mention I hate slab climbs. Probably because I suck at them. Didn't even want to go back for the redpoint.

Relaxed Atmosphere

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - redpoint 3rd go. not as easy finish as aqueduct, juggy but stays with you a little more...

Roadside Attraction

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Did this in 2 pitches. Great climbing the entire way. You can rap from the anchors with a 60m rope.

Ruby Slippers

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Similar to Diamond. Gritty holds, but still fun.

Slimy Creatures

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - This route is long and enjoyable. A few tricky sections to get over some bulges, but it's easy to protect while below them. A single 60m rope should get you down from the tree up top.

STUNNING THE HOG

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - 11/09 couldnt make it bolt to bolt. not even remotely close. really hard moves/holds... beautiful climbing, perfect route, awesome holds etc.

Tissue Tiger

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Fun whipper from the third bolt, and some smaller falls trying the crux. Did the crux move after like 5-6 tries.

Breakfast Burrito

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - easy to the alcove then really fun moves coming out of it

The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - easy end.

Fire and Brimstone

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - love the saddle sit
took once, too tired from Check Your Grip
fun route with a really fun start

Kentucky Pinstripe 5.10a/b

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - in the sun! liked it a lot. The ramp to the top had a great view.

Sam

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The move at the top took some figuring out. It is definitely a crux, but it wadn't the one-move wonder. The route keeps your interest. Climbs better than it looks. I walked past it many times thinking that it wasn't worth a go, but I am glad I got on it.

Monkey Bars

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - nothing too special but a warm up

Panda Bear

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Ethics Police

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - 11/16 felt crappy. tr'd it once - lead it twice hangdog all the way.

Green Eggs

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Pretty fun. A bit sandy and thin in places, but a good lead nevertheless.

Loosen Up

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - This was an interesting climb. Crux came at the top where the crimps got loafy. Good right hand jug under the anchors.

Balance Beam

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun slab with interesting moves all the way

Ham

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Seems to flow slightly better than Green Eggs, but that's splitting hairs. Had to let the partner lead at least one route.

Annie the Annihilator

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - tried this last year as one of my first leads, no luck..

redpointed first go this time a round and down climbed on lead to gtt a good warm up

Tire Swing

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun not very hard

Check Your Grip

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - 1st go= took 4 times
2nd go= took 2 times
love the moves and a sustained route need come back in the spring to redpoint it

Third World Lover

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - harder than the other two 5.11 on the wall

One Fist, Two Fist, Red Fist, Blue Fist 5.8+ **

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I really enjoyed this route, just wished it was longer. Interesting start into an arm swallowing crack and finish in some choss up top.