Rockclimbing | Ascents | North America/United States/Kentucky/East/Red River Gorge (Climbing)

Brambly Downslide (5.10a)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ... but the rock is somewhat fragile. Maybe once enough holds break off this will turn into 5.10a. For now, it doesn't merit more than 5.9

Don't Take Yer Guns to Town (5.10a)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Didn't know what to expect and am a bit conservative, so I just traversed/led over from the adjacent 5.7 (The Offering) anchor and set a TR (EASY - take a blue and a yellow TCU). Turns out that was probably unnecessary as this was not really a 10c, more like 5.7 with a single 10a move. The one move up onto the roof is fun and is really the only hard part. It's a *little* hard moving up to the anchors from there, but not really too bad. It's quite safe as one can clip the roof bolt before trying the move and then clip the bolt above probably before you finish the actual move (I saw someone do this).

It's quite enjoyable though just for the opportunity to heel hook something outdoors :) Maybe if one was unable to heel hook effectively it would earn the 10c rating. I think the routes in this area (Bruise Brothers Wall) might be a little soft or maybe it just fits my climbing strengths.

good tang (5.7)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Fun.

Immodium AD (5.6)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Short easy route via gear up to the CH4 anchors. Consider it a warm-up for Sweet Jane. Protection was scattered and not just in the primary crack. The start and clipping the anchors are the only parts that offer much challenge, relative to the rest of the route.

Manic Impression (5.10a)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - no notes

On the Prowl (5.10a)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Melow slab climbing. Felt easier than 5.10

Peer Pressure (5.10b)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - I don't often come down from climbing anything feeling disgusted, but this route came close. Short face of choss, fragile rock (a friend who was climbing after me broke off something at the top, and it looked like there were lots of other freshly-broken-off features). Not worth it.

I guess .10b is fair, but if you compare this route to the other two 5.10 slabs in the same area, then either the other two should be downgraded from 5.10a to 5.8, or this one should be upgraded to 5.10c/d. Maybe it was 5.10b before all the features broke off, but as it is now, all "5.10 climbers" in our group had a hard time on this route...

Sweet Jane (5.8)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - This is a nice soft 8. Definitely easier than some of the other 5.8s in the area (it is listed as a 5.8- in the area guidebook). The harder part is at the top. The bolt comes along just where you need it. Mostly small gear except for a big piece near the top to protect your anchor clipping. I ended up trending left under the roof and then had to traverse across the big ledge to get up under the anchors. Manage your slings accordingly or potentially suffer the weird mess of tangles that I did on descent.

The Infidel (5.11d)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - nice route.

5th Bolt Faith (5.10c)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - tougher to be confident with frozen hands, another great route

A-Beano (5.7)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - can skip the last move if your tall

A-Beano (5.7)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Pretty easy and like everyone says, good for beginning leaders and warm-ups. Very safe and reassuring bolt distance. I actually thought it was a little less obvious than CH4, but both were pretty relaxed and maybe a little light for the grade, esp when compared to some other 7s in the area - most of the Long Wall area 7s seemed much harder. Hardcore folks can continue up over the roof onto the 11a... watched some guy work this and have a mild panic attack.

Interesting side note: Weird iron ore(?) in the rock makes it look like there used to be a walkway bolted to the wall or something but I think it is just the geology.

CH4 (5.8)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - cool holds

CH4 (5.8)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Nice easy safe route to warm-up on and train the new sport leader. Downclimb it too for added value (why don't more people downclimb? It's the best way to get out of trouble.) The only mildly tricky part even close to 5.8 involved reaching the anchors. It could be a little more exciting if one was short. About the same difficulty and with maybe a more clear line than A-Beano just to the left. Like most of the other routes, the only other mildly difficult part is getting started.

Flutterby Blue (5.9)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - It's a fun route for the grade. It's easier if you are taller as one of the shorter folks in the group had to do some interesting moves to manage a few of the sections. The alt start is pretty cool. Try both.

Gettin' Lucky In Kentucky (5.10b)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - A fine name for an even finer line. perfect red-riv rock

Hey There, Fancy Pants (5.10c)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I really liked this one, it felt like a well designed gym problem. It has a fun rockover move at the crux, I blew my redpoint but immediately sent it after I looked at for a second as I leaned back from the TR (yea, yea, remove the true redpoint from the grading, but I would have easily re-climbed it if we had time).

I can see why someone might say this isn't 10c but I think it's more a matter of being able to make it easier if one works the technique and doesn't need to power through it. I find routes that just require power to make the harder grade really kind of boring - this wasn't like that at all IMO.

Little Viper (5.10b)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This is another great 10 in this area. The crux was really the tricky part but with some forethought it isn't too bad. I might try to lead it next time!

Burly looking but rusty steel chains and link to rap through.

Plate Tectonics (5.9)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - that start aint got no feet!

Rat Stew (5.10a)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - first .10a onsight

The Beeneling 5.10b**** (5.10b)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - fell at crux...

The Offering (5.7)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Another nice beginner lead. The only tricky part is that the anchors are on a slightly negative slope. Also, as noted, the belayer might slip if not paying attention. We anchored the belayer "just in case".

Note: It's pretty easy to traverse over and clip the anchors for the nearby 10c "Don't take your guns to town" - I led over with a couple small cams and dropped a trailed line there.

There Goes The Neighborhood (5.11c)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - no notes

Disappearer (5.11c)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - crux busted me up

Funkadelic (5.10b)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - no notes

Jack in the Pulpit (5.10d)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - no notes

Jims dihedral (5.10a)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Brilliant!

King Me (5.11b)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - great line!

Roadside Attraction (5.7)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - VERY VERY FUN! Wide Offwidth near top prefers hexes not cams. If its open, GET ON IT! only did P1, double up on 1s 2s and a 3, left the 4 on the ground

Super Dario *** (5.11c)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - no notes

Tissue Tiger (5.12b)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - A nice short intro to the red!

Arrowhead (5.7)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This was just a neat thing to climb. It appears right in front of you as you top out the trail. It would have been cooler if it were just a little taller. Nice view from the top and room for at least 3 or so persons up there. Was pleased to see that someone had put in a nice new pair of shiny rings for the anchors in addition to the older rusty gear (one part spins but is heavy duty looking) that was up there already. I just clipped into both sets.

I'd probably say it was on the lighter side of a 5.7. The start seemed to be the most difficult part (keep your second snug on belay or have a spotter if they are iffy on the beginning boulder problem). Many nice stances and several pockets for mid-size to small cams (TCUs - C4 #2). Coming around the corner of the ledge about mid-way up is probably the mental crux. The gear got a little small there on up and I was glad to have a 00 grey TCU at one point and I backed up a few of the small pieces. As someone else mentioned the rock seemed a bit gritty/sandy and maybe a little less than strong so I wasn't real keen on the prospect of testing my placements but the climbing wasn't too hard.

Wadcutter (5.9)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - felt a lot easier than when i got on it 4 years ago...

Bandolier (5.11a)

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - It was cold. Sent it clean the next day when it was warmer.

Bandolier (5.11a)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - no notes

Razorback (5.6)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - This seemed very short and pretty straightforward. A bit cruddy and dirty however. Warm-up or learner trad. We found it via the mass of colorful rap slings.

Hippocrite (5.12a)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - 3 burns still a sally w/ 1 fall

Centerfire (5.11c)

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - no notes

crack attack (5.9)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Awesome climb, if only it were longer

Loosen Up (5.10b)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - *

Five Finger Discount (5.8)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - so thin and so sexy, great laybacks and fingerjams will lead to smiles

Central Scrutinizer (5.9)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I took a ride on a top rope someone put up and it was a fun route. I do trad too, and I agree looking at it from the ground up it looks blank. I climbed with an eye for the gear and there were indeed options for nut placements and maybe micro cams - a nice horizontal and several v-slots as you get higher up. It would probably have scared me quite a bit as I went since you probably wouldn't want to pass up or miss any placements!

It was a fun climb though, with nice crimps and smooth face climbing moves.

Brontosaurus (5.10c)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Even though I'm a pretty weak crack climber I foolishly decided to follow and clean this for someone. Kicked my butt, even though I slid a #2 C4 up ahead of me as a directional as I went and took breaks periodically. I did learn a bit about crack climbing technique the hard way. Such as: It is important to cam your right foot into the crack to take a lot of the load. Lie-backing this crack will make a hard problem even harder. The crux was annoyingly at the end just where it looks like it ought to let up. It got a lot smoother and harder to hang on. The free hanging rap station/anchors made for an interesting rappel, plus you can look up at the terrifying "Welcome to Ole Kentuck" while huffing and puffing and be glad you aren't on that SOB... yow.

I'm glad to see it was recorded here as a 10c instead of the 10b that the Ellington guide has it listed at.

SYNCHRONICITY (5.11a)

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - 4 burns still no red point....