http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/rss/ North America/United States/Utah/Salt Lake - Utah Counties/Big Cottonwood Canyon en-us (C) 2005 5 Rating: 3 - There is a new route left of the arete with 5 bolts. All but the first are in easy reach of the arete. I shouldn't really claim an onsight because I clipped the bolts. http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/routes/review.cgi?ID=102276 Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800 Rating: 4 - More overhanging that it looks. The face holds are tempting but slippery. The crack is 5.9 but climbing the polished face holds feels about 10a. http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/routes/review.cgi?ID=102275 Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800 Rating: 3 - Some horizontal cracks that look great from the ground are too flared to take solid pro. A few options for micro nuts, micro cams, or ball nutz up high. I didn't feel good about the pro so I haven't led it. http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/routes/review.cgi?ID=102277 Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800 Rating: 3 - Good protection in horizontal cracks. Used TCU/Master Cam #3, #4 (#3 would have been better) and #1 between the bolts. http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/routes/review.cgi?ID=102278 Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800 Rating: 2 - Be careful with the pro, many sections have flakes inside the crack that may break under the load from a cam in a fall. Large nuts and hexes work great. The best moves were near the top with a hint of exposure. Recommend seconding rather than TR for someone not solid on the grade. http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/routes/review.cgi?ID=102279 Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800