Rockclimbing.com

variation: R.O.S. (Run-on Sentence)

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Any kind of jug you can imagine. Nice cool down climb

Call of the Wild Man

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - for some unknown reason a majority of the features were pounded out with a hammer. good figure. otherwise, a fairly good route that is partially ruined.

Texas Caterpillar

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - good 5.8 warm up

All Hail Broke Loose

Wed, 15 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Finger intensive but since it's pretty vertical and feet are pretty good it doesn't seem too tough for a 12a. Onsighted 95% of the route after falling once on the second move. Tried again and sent the whole thing. Though it takes a fair bit of finger strength to hold onto those little pockets it's not as tiring as Jade or Yertle. Personally think it's 11d.

Rhetoric

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Easiest 12a in the park, if it weren't for the crux move at the top, I'd call it an 11b/c. Mucho fun.

Crossover

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - this was a fun climb, it is also one of the highest at the wall, (I love getting high) the crux was about 4 moves still a fun climb, I am going to rate it 10a because that's what it's rated, but I would say it's Very close to 10b

Illusionary Mentor

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Fun. Some route reading and bulge pulling skills required. Reminds me of bulgy climbs in the RRG

Lick the Window

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - Ouch! That's all that needs to be said.

Live Action

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 3 - hard glare at the anchors if you climb at mid-day. falling at the anchors prior to clipping the rope into them is likely not a good fall at all. wrecking ball.

Live Action

Wed, 15 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - Header is AP's quote. For grade opinions you MUST try the beta under the route description. That's the move AP is talking about. Birddog originally thought 10c from toprope runs before bolting. Later I forgot that key beta and thought 11b when Karl and I led it. AP and I did it with the beta recently. She thinks 11a. I took liberty of revising the grade to 11a but think it might be 10d, felt easier than Menopause Mania and comparable to T-Roofic Indirect. The low and high moves are awefully technical, but I'm grading on power.

Same Day Surgery

Mon, 13 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 2 - Easy moves, crux at top at last bolt,

Monfi

Tue, 14 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - be mindful of getting up to the only naked bolt (#1) to put your draw in (stick clip advised). The rest is all perma draws now. Only one little spot requires a little balance or finesse, the rest is all jugs/huecos.

Monfi

Sun, 19 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - It's hard to grade endurance routes. The opening moves to the rest seem to have a 10a-b consensus, though I heel hook left and it can feel like 5.8 after all the runs I've done. I figure finishing the route is a harder than those starting moves. It has a few big moves that can wear you down, and no great rest. End pump is alot under that of Rock-About (10d); Rock-About probably deserves an 11a.

Sleep Deprivation

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - This was a fun 5.9 took me a while to find the holds near the top but they are there, just glad I didn't blow the onsight

Bermuda Triangles

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - this was a fun climb, I wouldn't give it 5 stars..but it was fun, stemming at the top overall I would say 4 stars

Rattled

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - A lot of fun. Good route Karl.
This route is deceptively pump but has great holds. Or maybe it's just that I had no info on what I was getting on.
At the top choss band, it seems to be crumbling, pretty dirty. Tried to clear a little bit out while I was climbing, but it was a never ending build up of dust.

Scorpion Child

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 5 - This was a hard fought battle for me! Love this climb! super fun climbing all the way. First 12c!

Diving for Rocks

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 -0700

Rating: 4 - Nice route. Love the hands before the dyno. Easy to the chains and fun roof moves. It felt like a 5.10b To me.