Rockclimbing.com

Cookie Monster

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Not sketchy at all on gear, its bomber. Climbed first pitch clean, 2nd pitch at 13b took 2 sits

Green Wall

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Led the second pitch which was absolutely classic. The first pitch was definitely harder but short and otherwise unremarkable.

Lowers Two

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - good route

Lowers One Alpha

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - good route

Lowers Three

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - good and fun

Jim Dandy

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Did this again without the running water, lots more enjoyable

My Route

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Good route, bolted but still used a little gear, Can link the two top pitches if you use 4' runners. A little exposed for a first lead though.

Mr. Witty

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - great move to and passed a double wide credit card side pull... then a crazy and fun top out off two, two digit pockets and a mono.... one of the two digits is for a toe. enjoy

The Daddy

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Short: Tedious approach and return hike but good climbing.

Long: The MTS trail section is nice and goes by quick, and there was a cairn to ID the turn for the amphtr trail. That section was all downhill (all the better to suck harder when it's all uphill on the way out) but in fairly good condition and is easy to follow. Continuing down from there to a rock with a little overhang cubby and another rock cairn on it (good to stuff packs here and rack up) there is a trail that heads back up a bit - this is your return trail (more on this later). Continue to hike down just a little more and you come to the rather steep tiered dropoff into the main descent gully. This was muddy and wet and tedious, although it didn't seem overly dangerous. In spite of the flowing water here, the route was dry. It seems to go on forever. FYI you start at a higher elevation than the top of the mummy buttress. Continue to meander down and across toward the other side of the ampthr and eventually you'll see a huge section of rock that looks to be sort of split off from the rest - the last section is the mummy buttress. Continue on down to the base where you can start to wrap around next to it and your climb starts here. I found it extremely useful to print out a picture of the start of the first pitch. I think it's easier to see the start of the Daddy than the Mummy.

Regarding the climbing, it was mostly pretty straight foward. P1 was a breeze and I blasted up it to a big ledge using minimal gear. Note there is a fake-out ledge midway up. P2 was a little more challenging in places but took gear well. P3 - I took the traverse and it was very easy with about 15 feet of actual climbing and the rest just walking. P4 was a bit more interesting, definitely upping the challenge a little more. I went from the left side of the boulders at the base and traversed up and right per the diagram. In spite of comments that this can be runout, I got pretty decent gear most of the way and set up a gear belay in the pod/corner. The final pitch was definitely the most exciting. I chose to go left out of the pod and face climb until I could move back right over the pod; this was fairly runout and had some serious exposure! I got a cam low and then dashed up another 15 feet until a small vertical seam accepted a small TCU (plus a fixed piece I clipped). Moving right got me into the dihedral, which was great and ate all the gear you could throw at it. Up a bit more and you're at the top before you know it. Great! I slung a huge boulder for my belay. This route is shaded pretty much the whole way until afternoon.

We chose to hike out rather than rappel; which basically follows a path straight back from the topout. This also takes you by the rappel area (a big dark cleft in the rock that we didn't see bolts in or scramble down into). Continue past this till you see a tall wall ahead and some squared off boulders on your left - climb over the boulders and then trend left and forward till you can scramble up a steep slope. From here aim up and left more or less and try to stay on the path (at times vague) and eventually you end up walking along side the high rim of the amphitheater (when you reach a high-dry/low-wet choice in the trail, go high) and eventually this takes you back to the rock cubby before the descent. Whew!

Get to the MTS trail before dark if you can but definitely try to be out of the big gully and/or the topout hike! It's thin, muddy, and vague and goes near sheer dropoffs.

I'd say the climb protects pretty well on the whole but it is long hike out I'd say PG-13 safety. This is why I opted to not try the p3 5.8 variation, although it did look mighty appealing.

Serengeti

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - tried it this trip with beta and couldn't do it. go figure...

The Hulk

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - been trying this since i moved to cali 2 yrs ago. Was finally determined this time and got it. cool. Once you stick the move to the chunk it'll be over soon.

Saucer Lucy

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - super fun, good gear, get there early before it gets to busy.

The Front of the Pinnacle

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Classic

Just Say No

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - *

Trio Mataporros

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - corta pero excelente... importante hacerla "caliente" puede ser fuerte para los dedos

Treasure of Sierra Madre

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Real fun climbing on pitches 3 and 5!

Peek-A-Boo

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Pretty long first pitch!

Slab freaks me out a little and there were sections that were a little thin on gear - I had 2 or 3 15' runouts. The route takes nuts well and small-mid cams (think I used 1 #2 C4 and all else smaller). The bolt about 1/3 of the way up is really a nice find when you reach it. I wouldn't call it PG-13 but maybe PG...

I stepped over and clipped the bolt and all but did the move (got hands on the holds and one foot over) but my second wasn't feeling it. I don't blame her as the step over the chasm could well be pretty heady and the holds aren't super-jugs, just good enough to get the job done at the grade. (I'm sure it didn't help that while belaying me she overhead some guy say:
"That's Peek-A-Boo the're on. Only route I've ever taken a lead fall, right at the big move." Regardless, the first pitch alone is pretty fun.

Also, the rap down from those bolts with a single 70m rope takes you to the right side gully and you've got to scramble back down a bit (not TOO bad). Better to do with two ropes or just finish it!

Foolish

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun climb

Ladybugs and Gentlemen

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Section above ledge is super easy. 5.6...

Crack Pipe

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - top moves are great.

Dome Driver

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - -

Frosted Flakes

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - flaky, nice reach at the bottom

Bad Cop No Donut

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Wanders in a cool way and requires long reaches to crimps in insipient seams to the finishing crack.

Worm Hole

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - great climb

Evil Shenanigans

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Nice wavy slab on the second pitch. The long sustained crack on pitch 3 was excellent.

Helmet Buttress

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Probably not a good route for newbie followers or leaders due to possible bad falls.

Getting off the ground might seem a bit tricky for 5.6 and the start and end of the traverse are not well protected. My gear was such that when I starting to move out of the corner if I blew it I would have swung back into the corner. It's not too far to go but it's quite thin (poor hands and slabby feet) and could cause a pendulum for the leader back into the crack or a pendulum in the other direction for a second (we nearly saw this happen to the second with the party who went up as we were packing out). Once you've made it to the first big block that is part of the belay ledge you're set though. Also no gear for the last 15 feet or so of the traverse but the ledge is huge.

One thing to note is that although the crack is quite large where it starts, there is a smaller secondary crack that accepts gear in the flake itself; this might reduce your initial runout over the easy ground if you don't have big stuff for the main crack.

P2 still looks weird...

Yankee Clipper (13)

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Really nice slabby climbing on holes, pockets, discontinuous cracks, and a variety of limestone features and textures, nice perch after pitch 13, we also did pitch 14 (9+) and made a thwarted attempt on 15.

No Picnic

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - In spite of the name, I actually climbed this route late in the day and had a picnic dinner at the top. Nice view of the valley below. VERY loose block, and the overhang was tougher than I expected.

Time Wave Zero

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - We climbed the route on-sight, combined pitches and swapped leads, no leader falls. We did not free climb pitch 21 (12a), but French freed it at A0. We also did not climb the 5.6 and 5.8 pitches 22 and 23, and so did not tag the summit. This worked well so that we could rap down and be back on the road before dark.
A great adventure!

Nice Crack Climb

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The start is the best part of this climb.

Black Fly

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - A good introduction to the Gunks.

Stay in the Middle

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Went straight up middle!

Disturbance

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Great climb. Good warm up for Chunky Monkey

Estrellita variation

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - two short crux pitches to a nice system of ramps higher up.

Lunar Debris

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Looks better than it climbs. You can use so many face features that it doesn't really climb like an offwidth.

Maynard G. Krebs ****

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Short and thuggy. 2nd try. Pretty fun though.

Gun for Hire***

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - sharp crimping. Wasnt too inspiring for me.

Infectious

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - really fun moves, sequential, I think this would be a hard onsight. 2nd go.

King of All Media

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Handjam clip near top then kinda weird finish. Bottom half was fun.

Hardcore Jollies

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - asdf

There Goes The Neighborhood

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - fun vertical crimping, gets easier at top.

Back Door To Paris

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Not a bad line at all. If you're over there, definitely worth a run to stay warm or cool down.

B3

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Definitely one of the best 11's in the Red. Soooo much fun! With a nice spicy finish for extra value!!

Perforator

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Great energetic climbing to a sweet dirty finish! Full value at the top!

gold rush

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Kinda' rough for a warm up. Got it 2nd go.

A1A

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - First dark ascent!! Extra spicy if you wait 'til after sundownto start!!

Main Line

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - And the rest is juggy fun after that. There would be a line for this route if it were in the Trapps. We had it all to ourselves on a blue-bird, warm autumn day. Worth the walk.

Just Duet

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Took me a few tries to work out the crux mini-roof, but luckily there's a nice standing rest from which to work on it, so sent it first go on lead (after TR'ing in the past). Loved, loved, loved the slab at the top! Delicate, balancy, thought-provoking, and delightful.

Lady Buggery

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I slipped 4 ft from the bolt (it wasn't even hard at this point!!!) and lost the onsight... c'est la vie :(

Other than dashing my hopes and dreams, however, this is a super fun climb!

Unnamed #1

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - I climbed this under the impression that it was a 5.10b/c. Seeing as I'm new to the 10 range, I have trouble believing it's a 5.11a... but the description fits the climb so whatever. My friend lead up to the crux and I finished the lead to the anchors. After that I cleanly topped it. Anyways, the climb is super-sketchy. There are some unbelievably awkward moves; in particular, I had to jam my leg into a horizontal offwitdth/crack thingy and at one point virtually my whole weight was supported by this thigh.

Peacenik

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - A nice climb that gets the blood flowing w/ a little pump....good finger and hand jamming for those learning crack climbing.

Vinyl Siding

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Lead it on hangdog and then topped it cleanly... pretty much the story of my life for the 5.10s right now. Also, I love Farley rock!

Cemetary Vault

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Extremely fun lead the arching roof was a blast
good pro too.

Cave Crack

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - 4th trad lead. great route, have seconded it before.

Jack Knife

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - 3rd trad lead, had seconded it once previously.

No Sweat

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - my 2nd trad lead

Cruisn' for a Bruisin'

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Took me a bit to figure out the crux; not what I expected at all. End of day, no time to redpoint.

Yee Haw

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - my 1st trad lead. have climbed it before on top rope.

Preemptive Strike

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - And I didn't go too far right either! I'm not sure this is a 10c, even with the crimpy start. Above the first bolt it's no harder than 5.9 at most.

Bitter Ray of Sunshine

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I should have gone for the onsight.

East Ridge

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - My two friends and i left the car at 12:30 am after a full day of work from all of us. We went as light as possible(we thought) dont need harness or rope. missed the fork for the switch backs from hell and over shot by about a half mile. made it half way through the frozen to death by sunrise. by this time we have passed two teams on there way out after reaching the summit that day. at the end of the frozen to death we pass two more teams getting out of there tents, we changed and drop down into the saddle. Passing yet another team we set off. the snow bridge had only three steps through the snow. little exposed through the chimney but great views. we reached the summit at 9.15 am after about a half hour on the summit resting and just enjoying the view we set off for home. we were back on the frozen to death by 11.30 where we ate lunch with some goats. after about an hour we decided to leave making back to the car at 6 pm that night. all that was left was the drive home and a stop to fill up on Chinese food. all in all we were on the go for 17.5 hours and awake for 38.

2046

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Would like it better after it's been cleaned up a little more.

Serena

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ... oops! Oh, and one of the bolts needs to be moved. It causes the bolt-side biner to be weighted over an edge.

Persephone

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - thoughtful.

Zyklop

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

Parasitos

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

Myrthe

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

Serena

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - Totally missed the traverse sequence. Sandbag.

Persephone

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - My favorite of all the slab routes at Ghost Kitchen.

Zyklop

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - and very very run out.

Delta

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

Parasitos

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Much more comfortable than Myrthe.

Thimari

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

Myrthe

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - Run out and slick.

Elia

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Very tricky sequence. Maybe easier if you're a boulderer.

Remember Wadi Rum

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - I thought it was harder than Dafni.

Dafni

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Couldn't get my ass onto the the stupid blobs! Well, by couldn't I mean I did, but with great difficulty.

Totenhansel

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Took some fighting to get up this.

Dafni

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Great fun!

Remember Wadi Rum

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - I'd say 6c+

Remember Wadi Rum

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Another very vaginal route. Although there were plenty of penii, too.

Joy in the Garden

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Anchor is sketchy.

Totenhansel

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - ...

Black Mouse Squeaks

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - fun easiest climb up there with the exception of hummer

Rumba

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

Reigen

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

Sirtaki

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - ....

Rumba

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - Pretty good holds.

Cha-cha

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

Cha-cha

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - tricky crux

Boogie

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - another easy slab route

Sirtaki

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

Jive

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - .....

Blues

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - ...

Pumping Huecos

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - A really awesome climb!

Polka

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - .....

Polka

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - one hang, when a foothold popped off.

Boogie

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - ok

Samba

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - ok

Blues

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - Good for beginners, warm up, no-hands climbing practice, or climbing with effed up fingers.

Samba

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

Dell Mabul

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

Kastor

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

Il Pittore

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - but I think I liked it?

Poseidon

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - consider using a stick clip unless you're solid at the grade. Crux comes before the first bolt!

Dell Mabul

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Good warm up route.

Minotauro

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Good warm up.

Minotauro

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

Il Pittore

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Quite pumpy.

Thetis

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Pumpy fun climb.

Thetis

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Almost a chimney climb!

Carlo non Farlo

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

Ariana

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - Good for kids, probably.

Ariana

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

Carlo non Farlo

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - The slabs in the section are quite nice.

Optasia

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Good slab climb.

Optasia

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - The slabs in the section are quite nice.

DTF

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - I thought the route sucked.

Eureka

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - First half of the route is just walking up a slab, though.

La vie selon Gege

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - I did have some reach problems - but damn! Thin!

La vie selon Gege

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - I found it quite tricky for the grade.

Eureka

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - Pretty good slab route.

Panselinos (Full Moon)

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - ...

Carpe diem

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Nice Tufa pinching!

Panselinos (Full Moon)

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Sure is pumpy. 1 fall.

Trela

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Unfortunately, I got off route. I climbed the middle section of the route Tufantastic (5.12c). But I managed to recover, climb back over to Trela, and send.

Carpe diem

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Robbed I say, robbed.

Monahiki Elia

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Getting polished for sure, but amazing.

DNA

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - And waaay steep! My neck got pumped from holding my head up backwards! Thank god you can hump tufas for rests.

DNA

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - OMG fun.

Swiss Baby

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Really fun face climbing. A few interesting sequences.

Janas Kitchen

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - I remember liking it.

Janas Kitchen

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - The crux confounded me! D'oh.

Swiss Baby

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - but don't remember much about it.

Bye bye Doc

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ... but I think I thought it was nice!

Bye bye Doc

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Tricky top half.

Blu

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - First 6 in Kaly.

Blu

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

L'amico Ralph

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

L'amico Ralph

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - More technical than other 5s.

Nonno Ringo

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - More technical than other 5s.

Origano

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - More technical than other 5s.

Nonno Ringo

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

Little Gio

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - Cool route

Origano

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ...

Zio Gio

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - I like limestone.

Stefanos

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - A good intro to Kalymnos slab climbing.

Stefanos

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - Cool rock.

Zio Gio

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - A good intro to Kalymnos slab climbing.

the right side

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - "The Right Side" starts on the ramp at bottom right, heads to the middle bolt that is shared with all routes (runout) and heads up and right again. A couple of balancy moves at top right, and worsening rock quality. Had to stop and clean mud, sand, and pine needles from the holds, and the rope drag was pretty decent by the time you get up there. Fun, runout, great views. I'd do it again. Safety rating is for the decking potential and not so great rock. Guidebook "Bellingham Rock" has it at 5.9, but doesn't feel like it.

55 Montoya

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Buena

40 Mugrosa

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Buena

38 �xtasis Total

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Gran Ruta

Savwafare Ist Everywhere

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Good hands, tricky feet.

Sail Away

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Now I see why it's so popular. Was worth the wait.

Just Another Roadside Attraction

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Really fun - it was a warm up to my partner. One tricky move for me at the top.

Slave to the Grind

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Long climb

Sister of Pain

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - S.

Glitter Gulch

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - And fun with one mini crux low. 5.10 all the way

The Gambler

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - S. Steep with big holds all the way

Poppies Will Make Them Sleep

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - do it

Check Engine

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - check engine has a nice crux with cross moves. it has lots of rests before and after it.

Stacked Deck

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - this is a classic route at GW. very fun and flows well.

It Crack

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - i've been climbing for a long time, but i'm no billy badass. it was pretty hard for me, but lots of fun.

Etude

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The climb was nothing like I imagined from the ground. It looks like a flared crack but really it quite good.

Valhalla

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - After the crux, the climbing is super fun with little risk of falling.

Travis is Soul King

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - the first three clips had slab moves but then it got really vertical and weird. Didn't like it very much but other people around thought it was fun.

Sugar and Spice

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - I didn't really like this route. The routefinding was annoying and the moves were not all that interesting. The top is sharp.

Short and Sweet

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Not a bad climb, the first portion is mentally stimulating. The rest is pretty straightforward but seems crowded by the other climbs around it.

Down and Dirty

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - This is a great climb that felt as hard if not harder than access all areas. The crux is definately the crack portion. One could bring a few finger size pieces if they were not comfortable with the bolt spacing.

Goody Two Shoes

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Nice cuts, fun top especially over a bulge with a crip to slab move.

Bottom Feeder

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - This was my third time climbing it and first time getting it static and quick. Love the beginning of the climb. Might try a lead next time.

White Heat

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun moves, safe clips and a few crux moves. Do before noon, this wall hits the sun first at the Quarry.

Mantle Marathon

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - This was a great LEAD. Simple 5.10 moves, many rest along the way, crux near top over the bulge.

Cheers

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This is a nice little corner that has some nice moves but it just seems weird near the top. Not hard, just weird. It made a good first lead for one of the people in our group.

Access all areas

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This is a nice technical route with a little pump to it. The only detraction is how close it gets to the route right of it. The guidebook gives it a 5.10d which I'd agree with. No way is it 5.11a.

20th Century Man

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This is a nice climb. the routefinding can be a little weird because all the chalk doesn't make it obvious where to go. The crux was a little bouldery but after that it was really fun jug hauling.

Hit and Run

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Trigger Happy

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Foreman Ferris

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Battery Powered

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Parts is Parts

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Kokopelli

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Creature Feature

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - start on the dirty slab, then pull a roof, then jugs and plates to the finish.

Time Share

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ascent note

Twinkie

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - nice 10+ techie slab to a jug hauling overhang. actually a few of those jugs are less than desirable, but still manageable. take a long rest on before the overhang, and on the no hands rest, then fire the top. good end to a week at the red...

Overlord

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Pogue Ethics

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Watermark

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Actually strayed off bolt line a little and think I made it harder than the 5.10a to the left of it. Fun route though.

The Serpent

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Pitch one has cleaned up a bit...2nd pitch is very clean. A very good route.

The Acquittal

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - ....

"Harvey"

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Fun route....much cleaner than Babe Ruth which has too much stuff coming off of it. 2nd pitch was pretty clean.

Potato Chips

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - I actually liked climbing it without using the crack better.

Black Buttress

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Probably my favorite climb of the day

Burning Balls

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Felt like a flash, did it second try, the first time i got on it i was still a noob.

Sun Bowl

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - ... although speed leading it in the dusk probably didn't help.

Murk Trench

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - I enjoyed this short little line. It's a good confidence booster for somebody new to the 5.10 range.

Trigger Happy

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - I love the overhang. Some really enjoyable moves and lots of ways to do the climb!

Free Range Chicken

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - Very short

Dolt

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I must have missed something because this was way harder than Jolt. Anyway, I got up it on lead somehow.

Jolt

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Great route, way easier than Dolt

Hammond Organ

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The foot placement is key on this one. Fantastic climb.

Frosted Flakes

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - none

Victim of Love

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - none

Blustery Day

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - none

Return of Darth Moll

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - mikey like

Roof Romp

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Sickbird!

U Slot

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - It was great, loved it. That move is big, scary, but solid.

Nostalgia

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Bagged the redpoint today. This is a great route on its own, and also a good way to set up a toprope on Hanging by a Thread, which one day I shall lead as well.

Under the Boardwalk

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - great movement in the middle, hard at the top.

Entrance Highball

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - There are a few flakes on this face that are not solid and will fall if you use them. Only use what's solid or risk pulling a rock onto your spotter. The feet are dirty but the jug is massive!

Nowhere to Go

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - One of the better lines at Clack. Brushing the slopers up top makes a major difference.

Pikes Peak

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun Route

Electric Swimming Pool

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - First three bolts are 9 then easy after that.

The Mantle of the Leprechaun

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - I love this climb!

Broken

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Good problem, got it second go.

Butthead

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - *

Beavis

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - *

The Great Milenko

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - fun moves on an intimidating overhang

Sand Stoner Reverse

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - fun moves! awesome climb

No Sleep 'Til Campton

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - some crazy varied stuff which all seems to be around mid 10 grade. the route winds around a bit and culminates in a roof and then some slab up top. if you are in the area - get on this climb - even if 10 is easy for you - this thing is FUN!!!

Kentucky Flu

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - this slab seems to always have an out when you think you're stuck. nice holds diminish in the middle and it's time to will yourself to stay on the wall. after that pleasantness, heroically romp up the larger holds to the picnic area of a finish.

Amarillo Sunset

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - this thing is quite a sight from the approach, and doesn't disappoint when climbed. stellar moves, and hard to stay calm with all those big moves. and just when you think you can clear the overhang to a slab stance, think again...

DaVinci's Left Ear

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - solid 10b climb seems to not be traveled that much. good moves on varied holds. some jugs, some crimps, some bad feet, some good.

random presicion

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - nice line of face/slab climbing. super moves. maybe a little easy of 11b.

Murano

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - this one looks pretty bland from the ground, but has spicy climbing with a touch of lime.

27 Years of Climbing

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Super Monster Killer

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun, typical Josh climb

Grain Surgery

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - because I was scared of the old rusty bolt that protects runout face to the top

Jumping Jack Crack

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun climb. Good technique will make this a lot easier.

Grey Goose

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - started as for windy slabs, climbed gray goose and finished off on western union (5.8)

The Nose

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - mmm

Off Width Your Head

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - This seemed difficult for the grade. A bit chossy at the ledge. I wouldn't recommend this climb.

Come in Your Lycra

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - One of the best 5.10's in the Red.

Dog-Leg Crack ***, Alphabet Rock

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 1 - very popular climb in the area

Captain One Eye

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Really fun.

coffee talk

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Decent climb, but no where the quality of the other 5.10's.

Z Crack - Alphabet rock

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - very good climb with a bouldery10c start over the little roof and though the Z then a nice 10a crack finish to a nice set of chair anchors

Classic Crack, Eightmile Rock

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - one of my favorite climbs I have ever done. and the first crack I ever climber besides bassballs but that one didnt count

Givler's Crack, Givlers Dome

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - fun easy climb the first 10 feet are the hardest then its easy peasy from there

Meat Grinder, Alphabet Rock

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - it does what it says it will

Pony Keg

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - nice

Air Guitar

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - bring a number 4 for the top

Outer Space

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - really fun climb with a crappy walk off lol........ bring your shoes and dont end up in the river

13 Motavision

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - super nice climbing

Yankee Clipper (13)

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - very nice route the final 10b on this route is very trick and I took a wiper on it!

Steroids to Heaven

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - start directly under the first bolt and climb through a couple of razorblades to get the grade. if you start left and traverse in, it drops the grade by a full number. recommend a stick clip to climb the direct steroids to heaven.

Makin Bacon

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - relaxed and you'll flash it... great warm up

Midlife Crisis

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - climb... great movement

The Happy Fisherman

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - funniest key chain ever at the anchors. check it out!

Queer Bait

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - It has been a few years, but I remember a varied excellent route, with a fair bit of OW (not the crux). We took several big pieces and used them.

Blue Monday

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - First trad lead! Actually, first time placing gear ever too. Top roped it twice while placing gear then led it. Felt great. Never fell so didn't get to test the placements, but everything looked solid when removing. Great route for trad beginners; most all placements can be made with the use of two hands.

Shredded Wheat

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - lovely tips crux

The Fear Of Having Sex With Dead People

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fingers were pretty sore by the time we got to this route, which made the start more challenging than necessary. Gets easier after start. At the top there is one hanger on a bolt, the other bolt that's missing its hanger. There is a bolder to sling but it's pretty far back, take a lot of slings, or you can place a stopper in a crack up there and use less sling, or do both for safety. We top roped it after climbing Brown Sugar. You could scramble up to top rope.

Grandma Got Run Over By A Raindeer

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - The granite I'm use to climbing doesn't have holds like this. It was real fun. The start is tricky but made it exciting; it's probably the only 5.9 part of the climb. After the start it's probably a 5.7b climb. At the top there is one hanger on a bolt, the other bolt that's missing its hanger. There is a bolder to sling but it's pretty far back, take a lot of slings, or you can place a stopper in a crack up there and use less sling, or do both for safety. We top roped it after climbing Brown Sugar. You could scramble up to top rope.

Brown Sugar

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - I think getting to the first bolt may be a little scary for a 5.7 climber to lead. I think after getting to the first bolt it's probably a 5.6 climb. The climb was fairly easy, but fun. It was nice to have holds on granite. The finish is unbolted but easy climbing. At the top there is one hanger on a bolt, the other bolt is missing its hanger. There is a bolder to sling but it's pretty far back, take a lot of slings, or you can place a stopper in a crack up there and use less sling, or do both for safety. You could scramble up to top rope.

T-Roofic Detour

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - If it looks like a jug....it must be a jug.

Prototype

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - sustained 5.9-5.10 moves; really pleasant climb

Rhododendron

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Led the route, and set a TR for others to climb

Clover

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Tr's after Julia led. Sustained.

Bisector

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - weird start

Horseman

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Led up to the pitons. Pauline took the top part.

Triple Bulges

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Followed Pauline on P2, after having led Fingerlocks as first pitch(instead of Twin Oaks start as the original route).

Finger Locks or Cedar Box

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Led. Pauline followed and linked tp p2 of Triple Bulges

Crankenstein

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - once you pull the roof, dont stop moving. Take a load off at the middle jug and pump to the finish

Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Pauline led the route in a single pitch, and I followed. Climbed this route in my first year(fell near top) and hadn't been on it since. Nice route, and especially when done in the one long pitch.

Erect Direction

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Followed Peter, and Ha also climbed with us. Then they went on too have Ha lead CCK Direct, which I totally failed off of. At any rate, the climbing on p1 of ED is fun, sustained for the grade but with big holds. Has a nice power move for a crux.

Belly Roll

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Led P1, and Ha took P2

Limelight

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Followed Ha, who led both pitches

Lonesome Dove

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - I have been breaking into 12s the past year or so. This was my first 5.12 redpoint and it was an onsight. Even though the roof is only 3 moves... none of those 3 moves were close to V4.

Booze Cruise

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - nice to start the day on

Center-Red Cross Rock

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - keep up some momentum if posible

11th Commandment

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Pumpy and steep on the bottom, the bolts are widely spaced on top and the climbing is lower angle. This route feels a little harder than 10a mainly b/c there doesn't seem to be one specific crux but rather sutained climbing the entire way. A great route.

R.C. Direct

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - i think the bottom makes this a 5.9, the crack is pretty easy. great lead

Spider Balls

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - want to lead it.

Weber Seam - AKA Stolen Delights

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - do this one every time i go to whiskey, definitely one of the better problems in the area

Tomb Raider

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun top out after the problem

Moby's Dick

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Ketron Classic

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - my first V4 onsight - the crimp before the move to the jug isn't really that bad.

Traffic Jam

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - loved this line. Short, but great

Front C

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun

Beavis

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - a good warmup, but feels harder than a 10a when its cold.

Le Gourmet Direct Start

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - first lead at seneca, pretty chill

Marshall's Madness

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun, tricky

Butthead

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - after taking scary falls into the pit area on the first three times, finally redpointed it. great fun... classic climb. love the three and two finger pockets

The Streak

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - pretty easy with a big move before the anchor. toproped it first

Tap Dance

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - .

Slab Dance

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - got into a sticky situation trying to get to the first bolt. after that it was smooth sailing

Jingle Bells

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - decent climb on birdsboro choss

Jays

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - /

Jim Dandy

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - bouldery start to sustained 5.10 climbing. Lots of fun

Look Who's Pulling

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - was a little intimidated by this on my onsight, was able to redpoint easily on my second go though. The bottom is definitely the tricky part.

Sheer Energy

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - had to hang once at the crux. going to red point this guy first thing next spring

Exoduster

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - one of my favorites. short with a cool crux. one of a few dry routes on a rainy day. tricky for the grade

Upheaval

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - surprisingly dry on a rainy day. fun climb

movie star

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Total-E-Clipse

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - fun

Distortionist

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - it was okay. decent warm up.

New River Gunks

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - super fun. thin gear, took me a while

Rico Suave

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - for some reason i feel like this is always dry...fun climb

Mrs. Field's Follies

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - fun

Geisha Girl

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - was my first real lead. loved every minute

Bobby D's Bunny

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - nice fun long easy lead

That Eight

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - fun climb, good easy lead

She Got the Bosch I Got Drilled

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - i dont know about "best 10 at the lake," but fun. Did it at the end of the day spent, and it started to rain, so maybe it is way better than i remember

Baby's Got a Bolt Gun

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - probably my favorite climb at oswald. love the overhung end

Strong Arming the Little Guy

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - really enjoyed this. got beat up by it last year, came back this year and set, still messed up the crux and had to hang once, not too hard though

Orange Oswald

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun

Chunko Goes Bowling

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - fun climb, great warm up for the rest of the wall

Roadkill

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - At most a V2.... I was a weakling back then. Poor judgment. My bad

Back Door To Paris

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - after doing rock wars, do yourself a favor and warm down on this one. surprisingly nice moves for a plain looking line.

Rock Wars 5.9+ (10a)

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - everything has been said already on here. awesome line.

Autumn 5.9-

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - nice consistent crack with varied movement. like those laybacks a bunch.

Butterballs

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Surprise whipper, good climb will send it next time

Need To Rest

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - short but pumpy overhanging climb on large holds. great.

Magic Triangle

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - this is a great line. the first two pitches can be linked with a 60m rope. I found the first two pitches to be the crux. Then an easy traverse leads to a large ledge and the pitch up from that ledge is great with a nice traverse. next a short pitch through a short but fun overhang. The last two pitches can be linked again to the top out. recommended. We got a rope stuck on the last rap.

Inti Wantana

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - this is a great line with mostly sport climbing and the odd trad pitch. the grade at 10c is very soft IMO (I would give it 10a). The second pitch was the hardest, everything else was significantly easier. There are many bolts. Finishing off via the upper pitches of resolution arete adds a little bite to the climb with rope drag and less than ideal rock quality. But great way to end up on the summit.

Sour Mash

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - a great line. on some pitches there are bolts so close together, you can clip two from the same stance. in the handren book, you can link pitches one and two as well as three and four. It's soft for the grade. We would have been fine with a much smaller rack than the guide book recommends.

Chenard B

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - This route is toward the right side of the cliff. It is right several hundred feet of a feature called the oasis (aptly named.) It starts as a crack system in a shallow corner, with some OW about 5.6> Higher, the crack steepens, until about 3 pitches up where there is an overhang with a tricky move. After the overhang is 50 ft of 5.9 hands. After the hands are some discontinuous face, and runout climbing. Tend toward the left and the anchors. I've rope climbed this with a fotographer, free soloed it, and rope soloed it. A nice route.

???

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - I had no idea this was a climb before seeing the anchors so we hopped on it and turns out its harder than what i usually do. who knew. It's also a pretty crumbly rock in some places, and cleaning up is a pain in the... neck

Barrel Rider

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Straight up face and bolts and water groves (pro), a long route up great rock. Thinner than Majestic Arch, more of a slab route with great pro.

Majestic Arch

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - A classic route, something a 5.8-5.10 leader shouldn't miss if out there. The best rock for the grade at Shuteye. Climbs the plated face up rad granite under the chimney and arches left to anchors. 140' I think?

Changing to Shadows

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - This was the only route in the sun and was barely tolerable.

Arkenstone

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Did it with Grahm. We took snow mobiles in to nab it. Sweet!
Thin and sequency down low, juggy above.

Watermelon

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - alone, at night

Beginner's Hand Jam

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Fell on the last move to finish. Luckily the undercammed red metolius held. Finished on the easier terrain to the right.

Mother Goose

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Hard for me!

The Puffer

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - The bottom is pretty straightforward, the top is where it gets fun!

Tidy Up

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - good moves down low pulling the little roof, and a fun mantle finish.

Thornbush

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - best trip so far

In Vitro

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - The roof is the highlight of this climb, cool movement.

Lucky Pierre

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - super fun layback flakes up top! One of the best 5.9's at the Cliffs.

Twin Cracks

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - No comments

Midway, Upper Castle Rock

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Catapult, Jello Tower Chimney, and Midway to the top. My first multipitch follow. Would be awesome without the road noise.

Catapult

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Catapult, Jello Tower Chimney, and Midway to the top. My first multipitch follow. Would be awesome without the road noise.

Twin Cracks, Eightmile Rock

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - No comment.

Givler's Crack, Givlers Dome

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This trip was my first time following multipitch climbing and it was day-after-day-after-day. I finally hit burnout on Givler's - first and last climb of the day. Awesome climb with fantastic views.

The Lizard

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - My first time at Index, followed, got dragged through the chimney, and took the left undercling option to the twin cracks to finish.

Fixer

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - 4 moves....

99 Red Ballons

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Seemed easier than the grade the first time, the second I made it harder by pulling the small roof. I think you must go straight through the small roof to achieve this grade, otherwise much lower if you traverse left to the arete.

Fatigue Syndrome

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - powerful climbing

A Face in the Crowd [Out of Africa]

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - good moves...but sharp

The Fire Swamp

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - One of my first successful sport leads. After, the old man had me downclimb, and re-climb several times with a huge rack on my waist to get used to the weight and balance for future trad leading.

Sheila

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Great climb. The (optional 6in pice is a must unless you want to run out the crux only protected by your last nut placement.) and the rap down... I was told you could rap with a 60meter rope. unless there was another set of rap anchors that are not there anymore I don't see how this is possible. Getting down was interesting. All in All A Must Do Classic!!!

Inspired By an Idiot Roof

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - upside down....

Slaper

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - heel toe...squeeze....repeat

Revenge of the Elderly

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Another fun 1st multipitch or 2nd's first multipitch climb. Depending on how you route a single rope rappel, watch out for a small pendulum when crossing over near the "cave."

Burst of Joy

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - finally...went with different beta for the beginning and sent.

Flake-n-Bake

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - Fun for first multipitch lead and first multipitch follower...2nd pitch is almost not worth doing.

Gritstone Arete

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - perfect stone

Big Bad (right)

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Bathtub Mary

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - this climb has it all. highly recommended. starts with technical face moves up to a stance, and followed by some crimps and pockets to a sit down rest. hang out for a bit, and head up to the long hanging chains. hit the top hold over the chains for full value - you'll be glad you did. have fun.

Captain Blondie Sinks the Ship

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - soft start leads to a high traverse roof crux. not so hard if you hit it right.

One-Armed Bandit

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - nice route with varied moves from crimps up high to jugs down low

Cindarella

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - stiff start. and probably slightly harder when it's hailing outside.

White Trash

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Fixer

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 2 - .

The Wave

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Mystery Groove

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Tri-Star

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

The Shotgun

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - one of the better ones

Super Mario Bros.

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

The Pinch

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Cronic

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Dragon Lady

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Crack of Doom

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Grimace

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Golden Child

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Tunnel Vision

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Slaper

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Nose Candy

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Sherman Photo Roof

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - .

Tying Tubes

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Pinch / a.k.a. Pythagorean Theorem

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

The Scoop

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Gritstone Arete

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Little Bad Boulder

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

The Island of Beautiful Women

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - .

Die-Hedral

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Left hand palm, left foot on the black smear spot, and the key is the right palm on the right wall and press youself up so you can get both your feet into postion. You are not done yet. you will still have some delicate palming to standup. Work yourself up one more step to the nice flake in the middle of the left wall. Once you get the first section done, the rest is cake.

Bizarro World

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Use the right edge and lay way back up the first section.

Yaak Crack

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - a long time ago...

The Streak

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - two unsuccessfull attempts on TR earlier this summer, couldn't get the finish hold. took care of it on lead. beautiful november day!

No Calculators Allowed

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Fun climb, didn't think it was quite a 5.10, until you reach the top two moves.

Fire in the belly

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - hung dog it. i'll own it next time. has a bastard crux at the very top before the anchors. its been often called the steepest fiveten in NA.... i think that is because it isn't an fn ten.
ps. if you ditched a red white and blue draw from climbaxe... its me n skylers booty now.

Dream of Wild Turkeys

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - First long route. Lots of 5.9 climbing, small bit of 10a traversing.

Sour Mash

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Excellent climb. First pitch seemed a bit sketchy, the rest was well-protected. A few small - medium cams, nuts and tri-cams works wonders.

Camp Mather

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - fun quick and easy or moderate

Limelight

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - A difficult climb for the new trad leader, per routefinding, but doable. Fun!!!

Gory Thumb

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 5 - Cleaned after the leader, dropped my nut tool but had a no fall/take climb. Can't wait to lead it!

Something Interesting

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Cleaned gear, no problems. Fun climb!

City Lights

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - I followed cleanly, leader really wanted to get this one clean.
I would do it again on lead.

Baby

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Fun, had to figure out the offwidth, wish I had a #5 for my own comfort but I didn't so I wiggled my way up to the next placement.

Birdland

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Only did pitch one, was very wet that day

Toxxxic Entertainment

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Give this a go, totally worth the effort, FUN!

The Stand

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Nice good rock and well protected.

White punks on pockets

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - Nice pockets and sharp rock, don't use the cracks or your off route.

The Book of Dude-Aronomy

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - If you can stem, this is a very fun, easy climb! SHORT, but sporty, maybe not the best for a new leader.

Chunky Monkey

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - Took me a few tries but finally figured out the beginning, the rest is really easy crack and stemming. SHARP in the crack.

Slicer

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 3 - The beginning is a bit tough but the crux is high enough for a safe fall...I know by experience :-)

Politically Incorrect

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Rating: 4 - This is an endurance climb, that keeps getting harder all the way to the anchors.