Rockclimbing.com

Stefanos

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Left of the gully, climb the slab. (Fr grade 5c)

Zio Gio

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

The middle route. Slabby beginning, followed by face climbing at the top.

Little Gio

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Face climb on the right of the slabby area. Joins Zio Gio at the top.

L'amico Ralph

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

between nonno ringo and l'uomo che non credeva.

Janas Kitchen

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

A bit run out at the beginning, but reasonable climbing for the grade. Crux is a bit blind.

Panselinos (Full Moon)

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Moderate tufa line just left of Carpe Diem. Bumpy!

Eureka

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Slabby route with super spikey rock. Good warm up for the area.

La vie selon Gege

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Near the far right end of Panorama. This line follows natural features up and right from the same slab as Eureka.

DTF

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Very wandering, quite sharp, with relatively long distances between bolts, and somewhat friable knobs.

Carlo non Farlo

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

First of three nice easy slab routes on the right of Arhi.

Ariana

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Pleasant slab climbing.

Dell Mabul

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

One of a few grey slab routes on the left side of the Arhi formation. Nice. Grippy rock. Easy for the grade.

Poseidon

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Very bouldery start leads to technical stemming, followed by face climbing at the top. Goes up the right side of the enormous tree trunk-like tufa just right of Thetis.

Kastor

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Couple hard and reachy moves in the middle. The rest is just tufa blobby goodness.

Blues

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Nice grey slab route. Just look for the name at the bottom.

Samba

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

On Noufaro Left. Bolts are a little spaced at the top, but easy climbing.

Polka

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Between Blues and Boogie.

Boogie

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Try without hands.

Jive

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

fifth slab route in section

Sirtaki

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This route on Noufaro Left is between Jive and Cha-Cha.

Cha-cha

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Just to the right of the slab routes. A bit technical on small sharp holds.

Rumba

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Just right of Cha-cha. Careful if someone is on Cha-cha. They come quite close together by the .

Reigen

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Towards the right side of Noufaro Left. Easy slab leads to some technical face climbing, and then big moves on tufas and holes. May be harder if you're short.

Totenhansel

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Superb technical Tufa climbing. Not just another jug haul.

Joy in the Garden

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Nice consistent face climbing on pockets and good holds.

Dafni

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Huuuge tufas! Fantastic climbing right through the middle of the biggest tufas in Ghost Kitchen. One of the coolest climbs at this moderate grade on the island.

Totenhansel

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Just to the left of the prominent blank black streak. Mostly pumpy sustained tufa pulling.

Elia

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

bouldery crux 1/3 of the way up, then tufa-pulling goodness to the top.

Myrthe

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Left-most slab route on the lower grey slabby area. One of the easiest routes, so its waaay polished.

Thimari

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Go up the prominent black streak towards the left of the overhanging area. Technical and pumpy.

Parasitos

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Very nice slab route. Lots and lots of bolts.

Delta

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Slabby start, then technical, balancy, and reachy.

Persephone

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Almost on the right side of the slab. Friendly bolting.

2046

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Very interesting face climbing, and very thoughtful movement. Totally different from anything else I've done on the island. As of November '09 it still needed more traffic to clean it up a bit.

Cruisn' for a Bruisin'

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Crimpy start, to interesting face, to "perplexing bulge", to the top.

Preemptive Strike

Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

First bolted climb to the left of Boltergeist. Crimpy start (don't go too far right or you'll drop the grade by a couple of letters at least), then fun and varied breeze to the top.

Entrance Highball

Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This striking, yet filthy, face is located near the first warm-up boulder encountered from the approach trail. Start on crimp at eye level move up and right to large undercling. Make use of poor feet and small crimps, finish on large jug at top.

finger crack left

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Dobong san is a large crag. Around the left side and higher, is a smaller subsidiary crag with two excellent routes. Yosemite like cracks. These routes are several hundred feet higher than the main crag.
The left route is an 11C finger crack. One can place gear high, from a ledge, to protect the opening moves. At the top, the crack narrows and is lost. Really excellent climbing for the Yosemite veteran. Yvon was proud.

dihedral right

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

and odd start-- see finger crack left for crag location. In fact. Here is a decent description on how to get to Dobongsong. The dobongsong subway station is on the north end of town. After departure, head toward the mountains through a cluster of 1000 restaraunts. Head up the 30 ft wide trails, with 10000 office workers.
the start. Lean off a ledge 30 ft up the route, and place a cam or two. Climb down into a hole, and start the rout> (alternatively, lean over, jam a hand, and start from the ledge.) climb up through a dihedral, corner and roof features. There was also a second pitch that was less good, but still 2 star. There were rap anchors in 2000.

fender dihedral

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This is the dihedral a few feet right of Wunches. It is easier, and not as good. The crux is at the top- a flare with thin hands in the back, and OH Yea, covered with shit.

unknown bolted route

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

this route starts near the top of route 66. Initially, the route goes through a deteriorating overhang, and then onto a slab, ending at the big ledge where the center route ends.

Z Crack - Alphabet rock

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

the obvious Z shaped crack 15 feet left of Meat Grinder

Off Width Your Head

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Locate a nice looking handrack that begins 15 feet off the ground about 50 feet left of Flaring Crack. Climb up to the crack to a ledge then continue through an offwidth.

Piano Keys

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Just left of the tree, and right of the big roof: Begin at a high undercling and slopey slot and climb straight over the bulge on imaginary slopers to a distant knob and better holds. Very hard if you're short.

Groundscore

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

The low start to Piano Keys. Begin matched on the obvious rail down and left of the stand start and make some heinous moves to join it.

The Diggler

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

A good eliminate. Start down and left of the big roof on jugs, slap to the corner out right and stab left hand to the tiny slot. Grab the rail over the roof and fire out right to a jug. Very footwork intensive.

Grove Street

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Maybe the most stunning line at Groom Creek - climb the tall steep face with amazing moves to a terrifying slab finish. Impressive.

The Crucible

Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

One of the hardest lines at Groom, on the face left of Helen Lieback. Start at the high sloper and make massive lockoff moves straight up.

sea ward routes.

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

About 150 ft left of the left face routes there is a cave. Several routes climb out the cave and the face above. After leaving the cave and overhang above, these routes are not as steep as the others. However, in some areas very small features are climbed, keeping all the grades 5.12

Bienvenidos

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This is the obvious black crack near the right end of Mosaic wall.Follow the crack to two bolts before starting to go right through chickenheaded streaks.

Left face routes

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

There are three routes 10 or so meters left of the big cave. All of these start up a beautiful limestone pillar. A right route branches hard right above the pillar and stays climbing in a severe overhang--about 12 b. A middle route goes almost straight up, and then through a small scoop to meet up with the right route. This one is hardest at about 12 C. The left route swings slightly left for about 30 ft, and then joins with the middle at the top with a rightward traverse on a delicate ledge. Some of these have larger than average fall potential. These routes overhang the whole way, and any fall is clean.

The Puffer

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

The bolt line to the left of Ajax. Nice jugs down low, and technical face climbing as you get to the top.

Beginner's Hand Jam

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Despite the name, this route can be tough for the climber new to jamming. Perfect hands to a small ledge, then thinner and thinner to finger locks to finish. For an easier finish, traverse slightly right.

Circular

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

this route was bolted rope solo, on lead with removable bolts. A real adventure in 35 ft. the route is close to the water entrance of the cave, and climbs accross the roof, with the beginning and the end at the same verticle height. Start on either side.

meada cave bouldering

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

There are endless possibilities for bouldering in the cave. It is possible to go completely around about 11+, to cross the roof in areas 5.12, to go up to various cranies and ledges--as easy as 5.10+. The cave is deep in all areas. When you are tired, let go.

DWS routes

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

At least two DWS routes are possible out the cave mouth, over the water. Do it at high tide and there is about 12 ft of water. at low tide it is as shallow as 3 ft. left route about 5.8, right route about 11A

more description

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This is more description for climbing cave. This cave is about 50 ft above the water, and can be accessed from below, or from rappel anchors above. There is an old dump on the climbers left. There are also two main walls. On the climbers right is a slightly overhanging wall, the color of dog doo. It has a couple of 5.11 routes which are pretty good. There is another route that starts much lower and goes through some poor rock. The left wall can also be divided into two sections . The first is the cave endurance area, on the right and center of the cave. There are a number of very overhanging routes that are all accessed from a single pillar of OK stone at the base. There is one short section of very soft stone litter about 20 ft up. Check this bolt close. These routes are all 12 B to about 13A. On the left side are a few short bouldery routes that end in odd features about 40 ft up. These are 11+ to 12 B. The walls all look awful, the climbing is actually pretty good.

Ulna

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Find the line that looks good. search like hell for RB holes.

9/11 Blues

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

There are about three routes down in the trees. Two are short boulder problems with a bolt or two. Another is a slab with several bolts. Look and find.

The bow route

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

The oasis is about 150 ft up and the easiest access is runout 5.9 slab. This route starts off the right side of the oasis. I was told by a local welder/climber that the name was the bow, for the stellar pitch. I think the real name is Korean. First pitch is 5.9 crack, second pitch 10+ slab with a broken crack above. 4th pitch stellar corner arching crack--the bow 5.10. Above this is a low angle OW grovel which leads to a short hard roof, capped by a bit of endurance crack 11B head right to the belay.

roofs and bolts

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

There are several bolted climbs above the oasis. All of them have short areas of trad climbing. The best has a 12A slab (I was told "10C") with a short 11+ roof higher. Excellent 10 slab high several pitches.

movie star

Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

4 bolts plus shuts

"51"

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

easy 5.9+ climbing with 2 cruxy sections. a little runout at the top.

Abby's Lead

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

easy lead. nice scenery. immense owl nest to look at. overly bolted... like every 5 ft

Orangatang's Under Side

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start as if you were going to do Oragatang's Overhang, however when you reach the point where the rock bulges out go underneath. Top out on the other side of the corner.

Moonpie

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start as if you were going to do Juggernaut. Go until you get the section of jugs before you go straight up to the Juggernaut top-out. Instead keep going to the right about 3 feet past little jut-out of rock. Then go up to the top of the ledge. This is variation is just a little harder than Juggernaut, but not a V3.

Dyno-saur

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This is probably the shortest problem at Alum Springs. It is 2 dynos. Start close to the top out for Monkey's Den. There you should see a jug for your left hand and a crimper for you left about 6 feet in the air. Grab these and dyno to the right about 4 feet. There is a jug for both of your hands there. Once there, dyno up and to the left about another 4 feet. It is super tricky, and the first dyno is the hardest.

Ichor Sunday

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

short 5.6

Bolted crack

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

this is the grungy bolted crack to the left of the decent slab.

Roofed

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This is the route with a small roof about 20 ft up. First route left of bolted crack

laybacks from hell

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

The name says it. You'll know if you get on it. Left of roofed. Capped by a bit of sticky muddiness.

Witches Promise

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

this was my hardest non-roof route in Okinawa. It is left of laybacks from hell, and I can't remember if there was a route between the two. Anyway, 11+ to a non-restful stance, then 5.12 to the slot and small roof, capped by a boulder problem. choose a dry day and good luck making the last clip or two--I choose to take the big falls on redpoint attempts.

Holger onsight

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

There are right and left variations to this route (I think) the first couple bolts are shared. Named in honor of a visitor who onsighted the route. Delicate start followed by big good moves.
this is left of Witches Promise

Water world

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

this is the route that starts on the right side of the huge cave. This cave is about 100 ft left of Holger onsight. It starts on a slab (10+) and goes straight up to the overhang. At the overhang, it heads almost directly left and the follows the line of bolts around left and up to near the top of the cave, following pockets and reasonable rock.
I was only able to do this route with two ropes. The line produced too much rope drag with one rope. Often wet, always slimy.

The big one

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

toward the left side of the big cave there is a ledge about 20 ft above the cave floor. Access the ledge by about 5.10 climbing. there are two variations out the cave. The right is hardest, and forks right after the first 4 bolts. Shallow two finger pulls, with jugs in between. About 60 ft of roof climbing. I redpointed this in a gale, with my 12 year old belaying.

Lack of Vision

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Follow up the arete on easy moves to a mean crux with terrible feet, finishing up and left.

workout route

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start from same ledge as the big one. go straight up instead of right.

Chunky Monkey

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Technical climbing to two big pulls and then a cruxy section at the end with multiple ways to go. Great route.

Disturbance

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Bolted crack line to the right of the Genesis Cave

Treasures in Heaven

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Starts in a dark alcove 50 ft. left of Cruise Control. Surmount a low overhang to climb a hand/fist crack to a bombay chimney. Ascend the chimney ( easier than it looks) and wide crack above to a grassy ledge.

Gettin Dirty and Bleedin

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

200 feet right of Block and Tackle and left of a golden colored portion of the wall. A left trending crack starts on a small ledge/platform behind some rodos. May be slightly overhung. Has a short wide section near the top.

Cracking the inverted Y

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Route is visible from the road approaimately 100yrds west of the big pullout where you park for climbs at Inspiration Point. The route is located approximately 100yrds off the road and is clearly visible as the route is an inverted Y. There is a great platform at the base of the climb so you do not have to stand in the brush. There are two possible varations the climb has a good ledge half way up that you can stand on for a full rest. To get up to that ledge the first varation is to follow the crack under the inverted y to the top of the ledge or start climbing to the right of the Inverted y as there is some nice face features.

Phil-fit Corner

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

A nice right facing corner the only corner that is climbable. Its Located Center of the crag, begin under the small roof and to the right, contiue on the face for approximately 8-10 feet and then work the corner to the top. This climb is also top rope able.

Plumbers Crack

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

A classic Yosemite fist crack or really big hands. A good starter crack fun and easy. Located 100 feet left of Phil-fit Corner. Near the end of the rock face. The climb is easy to spot, and is generally in the shade.

Shortie Cant get by

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Begins with some big jugs and then goes into a roof that is a fingers crack. Very difficult once over the roof you can top out with relative ease

Skinned

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

A rough climb its a thin crack most of the way up but if you fall you will get skinned by the tree that is in front of the crack. as the tree grows it will make this climb harder without some gardening... not reccommended in the park.

Wapama Mama

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Grade VI 5.10 A3+ This is a route that has not had an ascent in a while please add beta if available.

South Face - Lower Half

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

5.10 A3

atlantis

Tue, 03 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Obtain a topo from the Ranger station. Head down Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gully to the river. Head upstream a few hundred yards-walk along the wall. Atlantis is marked by a cairn which cannot be seen from the river. The first 30-40 ft wander up a slab to a crack system. P1: 5.9 Climb an easy crack up the right side of a pillar in a right-facing corner to its top. Go over a small roof with good gear near by, and face climb (a little runout) up and right over the bulge to a good belay ledge

P2: 5.9 Climb the beautiful flake up to a right-facing corner, to a massive ledge-belay on the top left side of the corner for a better start to the next pitch.

P3: 5.11 Head up a crack 20 ft to a horizontal, and follow the horizontal 20 ft right past a pin. Somewhat run out. Head up crack to bolt, crux at bolt. One bolt belay.

P4: 5.10+ Up a right-facing feature right off the belay to under a roof, belay at right edge of the roof.

P5: 5.10- Fun pitch, annoying belay in the chimney with some flaky rock.

P6: 5.7 This would be the easiest pitch to get lost on, I did. Continue up the chimney and ramp til its end. Traverse right, then go up a right-facing feature for about 5 meters. At this point, you are probably 25-30m out from the belay. You will look up to some broken features in the 'black grotto' and even some fixed tat hanging off the roof-this is NOT the way. We belayed in this area where there was good gear. Standing belay. Look right and down and you will see a massive, hanging, left-facing corner and roof-step over the corner to get on the ramp that would be the top of this feature.

P7: From our belay, we traversed down and about 30 ft straight right. The first 20 ft has no gear, and the first part of this is 5.9 slab--dangerous for follower. After going around a corner following a crack with good gear, head straight up through tiered roofs 5.10 with good, but spaced gear. A fixed pin you climb up to will blaze the way a little bit as you work your way to some right-facing features. Keep climbing out of sight of your belayer till you get to a good ledge belay with 2 fixed pins.

P8: 5.11- Crux off the belay protected by a bolt. Pull through some steep overlaps, and then climb easily to another massive ledge.

P9: 5.9 Follow topo, belay on block-tight little belay for 2 people-finger-size pieces and nuts for belay.

P10: 5.11- Another fun pitch off by yourself as you can't see your belayer. Belay on a small ledge at the top of the groove-corner feature. I think there was a fixed pin.

P11: 5.8 (R?) The pitches get short for a bit here. Peg pitch with a bolt-wow that's nice. Easy climbing, on good rock, I don't know if it's really R, but don't fall. Get on to another massive ramp and go up and left on 4th class til you see the next pitch with its bolt.

P12: 5.10 Short crux protected by the bolt, don't blow it after that, another small ledge belay.

P13: 5.10 Short crux after some peg wandering-its a little loose in the peg, but the hard climbing is on good rock, with a fixed pin-follow the topo, go up off the belay, then do a straight left traverse into the spot marked 'awkward'.

The belay is on the huge ledge feature with a tower-you could theoretically unrope here and bushwhack off the route, as per the Lost City escape However, the last three pitches are super--don't miss them. Take off the rope off walk up to the prow of the headwall about 200' away.

P14: One of the best pitches on the climb. 5.11 Climb some groove and face features unprotected and easy for the first 20' to the obvious, right-facing corner til you get to the bolt. Clip it, climb the crux, and use face holds to climb the sides of the OW, because who wants to climb an OW anyway? Belay on the pedestal.

P15: 5.10 Short crux off the belay, to easy crack climbing to large, broken ledge with boulders.

P16: 5.10 Climb through a few awkward roofs until you get to the narrows overlook. Enjoy the sunset.

femme fatal

Tue, 03 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

ya lo dijo juan: Enga�osa, ma�osa y traicionera,como su nombre lo indica. Pero tambien segura, divertida y tecnica.

Denture Grip

Tue, 03 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Follow "Indian Head" to 1st belay. Then up steep wall of horizontal cracks above.

Crystal Vision

Tue, 03 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

The rappels to access this climb are close to the Painted Wall overlook. Go to the overlook, and head about 200 yards right. Anchors to start the rappels are about 100 ft down a very small, steep gully. There are 4 double rope rappels into gully below. Follow this gulley nearly to a river. The approach was reasonably pleasant. There are two huge blocks leaning against the wall. the route starts above the higher one.
Obtain a topo from the ranger station. 5.10a The first pitch follows a rather dirty wet section up a crack and into chimneys. After chimneys follow low angle crack to small cave. long pitch 2. 5.10 pull out of cave, and up V. go right around roof and wander up a long slab past one bolt. Belay someplace left on a ledge or in the grass. 3. fourth class. head across large ledges with grass to face. The correct line is the most obvious one, about in the middle of the face. 4. Excellent pitch. It starts with a hand crack, which narrows higher. 10+ Find a reasonable spot to belay. Ours had a block in the chimney where a rope could be stacked. 5. 5.10 Some roofs followed by a huge unpleasant chimney, rotten on the left side with sparse gear on the right. 6. 5.10 more chimney, followed by an excellent fists roof. Up low angle OW 5.6. 7. 5.10 take rightward option. Good climbing first 30 ft deteriorates into mossy broken stuff. 8. This belay is in a rubble filled slot between two towers. From here to the top is excellent rock and features. 5.10 On the left side there is a hand crack that goes up 50 ft to a roof. Climb this and turn roof left. 9. Belay on top of tower. Make a very secure belay, because the next pitch 5.10+ (I thought 5.10+++) has very long fall potential. Step right, and clip marginal fixed nut. About 10 ft higher, there are more marginal placements. I was able to slot a wierd czech nut that might have held. Pull a few more hard moves to a very small stance, then one more boulder move to improving holds. A fall from this last hard move could dump you 60 or 70 ft into the rubble. Set the belay low in an arching crack beneath the Crystal Vision slab. 10. 5.11 Climb slab diagonally right, and then right into a crack system. Wait to place pro as high as possible. Follow crack to a roof and horizontal tending right. Uncomfortable belay. 11. 5.9 Go right around corner and follow interesting features upward and right. At a horizontal, go back left and up to a slabby belay, beneath a slab capped by a small roof. 12. 5.10 A OW follow thin crack on right to roof, traverse under roof left to OW, pull roof and climb OW. This is unprotectable for about 20 ft unless you have a # 5 camalot. Belay at top of feature. There is still about 400 ft of climbing up to 5.8 to get off. Wander up, then rightward. Spot a slot about 100ft up, and slightly left. Aim for this. We did it in two long pitches, which took about 45 minutes.

The Clacks

Tue, 03 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

The Clacks are located in Clacks canyon, Kingman, AZ. 15 or so free standing boulders, ranging from 12-25 feet hight.
all are unclimbed, unmarked, and unrated.

Latitude, Longitude
35.207092,-114.065072

Get Some

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Good bouldering wall with inverted and ceiling section. Great for workouts here on this little FOB. 3 routes taped, more planned

Store

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

The right route near the arete. Climb pockets and crimps to the arete and continue to the right of the arete.

Camp

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

To the left of Store. Power through tough beginning moves to a small overhang. Then power your way up through jugs to the top.

the spirit of adventure

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This route is in the middle of the cliff. It starts about 100 ft up at the big dihedral and ledge. On the left side of the large dihedral, a line of bolts up and left. There is a low crux and a high crux on the first pitch. A few medium cams needed. At the first anchor, go left about 30 ft to a crack and bulge (5.10 r). At the top of the crack, snag a hidden jug and pull onto the face. Make an improbably traverse back right with RP gear (I believe I used 2 # 5 offsets) and very delicate moves. Traverse further right into the obvious crack. The second belay is abut 30 ft above the first, after 70 ft of climbing. Climb the crack, and run it out to the top.
Every pitch contains 5.11 to 11+ climbing. The Adirondack guide rating of 11 B is a bit of a sand bag. This is an extraordinarily good, bold and rewarding route.

The Pink Hole (Is too small for Daddy) V2

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Across from the Boulder with no name. Start with the jugs traverse left and top out over the arete.

MJ

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start in the underclings just right of the arete and below some beautiful pockets. Work your way up to grab the flake right handed and top out.

Atlas Shrugged

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Hang off a left-hand pocket and right-hand pinch. Get a high heel hook and go for the right-hand V. Scurry/flop/scramble past the bulge for an easy top out.

Moots Madness

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Begin with a reachy move below the first bolt and relax the rest of the way to the final overhanging section.

Stealing Melinda

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Around the corner from Animal Crackers. A difficult start leads to surprisingly fun climbing to the anchors.

Isogram

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Steep finger crack that rises from the stream about 6 feet left of the arete (Alien).

Alien

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Climb the east side of the arete that rises from the stream.

Thieve's Reprieve

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

The left most route on the south facing wall set back from the stream (right of the East facing wall). Follows the smooth face a few feet right of the broken chimney that separates the wall.

Face the Fax

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Climb the center of the south facing slab past two bolts. Between Thieves' Reprieve and Intern's Burn.

Intern's Burn

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Dirty, broken, vegetated left leaning crack right of Face the Fax. A few good moves near the top.

Chutes and Ladders

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Climb the thin face past two bolts right of the arete.

Raisin Bran

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Climb through diagonal cracks up the center of the East face. Start up a right leaning finger crack to a very thin left leaning crack. Continue up the face to the small bush at the top of the wall.

Slammin' the salmon

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Hirn Tod (brain dead)

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

The easiest of the roof routes. Start left side of wall beneath roof. Follow wall to roof crack. Climb out roof crack, and then up roofed tiers. Last bolt on roof requires care to clip. The clip is hard, and if you blow it, you may injure yourself. Long clean fall potential high.

Tree Route Dyno

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

sit start as for tree route but when matched on the stand start jug, dyno for the two separate holds up high before the side pull and then top out.

Craig's crack

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

A beautiful hand crack at the top of the Limbo Area. Well worth the hike up there.

Granted

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Nice hand crack

Hole in the Wall

Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Finger Crack

Long Neglect

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Just to the right of the verticle line of choss. A long sport route with a traditional feel.

Chain anchors with biners.

Tizzy

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

I was hopeing someone else would clean this one up. It's a little short, but it climbs nice on Jugs.

Character Assassination

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This one has it all Jugs, Crimps, Lie backs and Hand jams.

White Lighting

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

In the middle of the wall, there is a set of steep jugs that run there way to the top.

Dealers Choice

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Place your gear, clip my bolts. Choose your ethic, have fun

Hold em or fold em

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Punchy, very punchy

Aces and eights

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Thin moves to a muggy middle with an exciting finish

Juggernaut

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Near the far right side of the cliffs there is a little section where the wall leans outwards. Start with matched hands about 8 feet up. The first move is up and to the right to a little jug. From there move down and to the right to a little section of jugs. Go up 5 feet to the top edge of the wall to top out.

Flake (var)

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start up the large obvious flake and pull through easy moves to a stance. Hand travese the small ledge rail pull the ledge and topout.

Baby Robbins Dike

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

climb the obvious dike just right of baby robbins

Thin Face Problem

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

on the right side of the corridor heading down to cornflake. a thin face problem with a few fun moves

Upchuck mantel

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Start this mantel with decent feet and slopers for hands. slap up and bump your feet and tenaciously top it out

La valse

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Can't top rope this one unless you rap down from the uper bolts and setup an anchor midway down. Nice classic 3 *** classic.

Dulfer

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Nice classic in Val-David rated 2 stars.

This one will take a full 60m rope, so watch those ends.

If you're going to throw down a rope from the top anchors, you might have to rap down (hard to get it to land on the deck).

Go up on the right of the mountain, but it's a long walk, so rap back down. Pro is good if on lead.

There is a top variation (5.5) where you top out from the left instead of the right.

Feel Around for it

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

Small Bouldering problem starts far right with a right hand 2 finger pocket and a left hand reach for a sloper, right leg hooked around the edge and left compressed. heads over and up the right side of the bulge.

Feel Around for it

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This problem is on The Kroulder Boulder in Todd, NC. It is on provate property off the new river. Small Bouldering problem starts far right with a right hand 2 finger pocket and a left hand reach for a sloper, right leg hooked around the edge and left compressed. heads over and up the right side of the bulge.

Feel Around for it

Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800

This problem is on The Kroulder Boulder in Todd, NC. It is on private property off the new river. Small Bouldering problem starts far right with a right hand 2 finger pocket and a left hand reach for a sloper, right leg hooked around the edge and left compressed. heads over and up the right side of the bulge.