Rock Climbing Routes

Arrowhead Arete

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

fun route

17. Bowling Ball

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Stand start is v1. sit start is v2. and left variation is v0

Crack Kingdom

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Awesome link up of Crack of No Hope and Wild Kingdom. Start same as West Face but trend left on gritty runout rock to gain left side of large ledge. Continue up obvious cracks to chimney then laser-cut fist crack. A 5.2 gully leads to aa PERFECT left facing corner to a super thin tips crack (crux) then wide crap then a flake then you are done! WooHoo. Great route.

Regular Route

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

5 short pitches, with sections of 3rd and 4th class terrain in between; often crowded as this is a popular guided climb for beginners

West Face

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Great route linking the best of a couple others. Reference Peter Croft's "the good, the great and the awesome." Four pitches, short cruxes, three bolted belays (one gear belay) and an easy rappel w/ a 70 meter rope. "Great", but maybe not "awesome"

Yellowstreak

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

steep desperate face, can be linked with Tiananmen Square

Should be...Do What?!

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Starts left of Repo Man. A very nice route, with good moves from bottom to top, that deserves more traffic. Climb past 4 bolts and mantel up onto the ledge. Then, bridge across a chasm for more excellent climbing on the adjoining face. You may find that the technical crux and the psychological crux are different. 3+ stars.

If your guide book says that there are anchors before you cross over to the other wall, there are none. Also you might wish for a 5th bolt before you cross. You can traverse to the anchors of Repo Man if you decide you don't want to cross.

Mono Punks

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

The route is just to the right of the V shaped dihedral that is just to the right of Sam and the Dial Tones. The OK climbers guide has this one at 5.10. It's called mono punks i assume for the two mono pockets right above a very large shelf on the route.

Larry king live

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start left hand on crappy crimp, right hand in two finger pocket and right foot in a high heel hook. Pull up to left hand crimp. Work your way up to the crimp on the right side of arete and throw for the top of arete.

3D

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Three feet left of the corner. The gouged-out hourglass hold is off. climb more or less straight up in very very very small edges. Lace'em' up tight for this one.

Battle of the Bulge

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Six feet left of the 5.7 Crack.

Amphibian

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Four feet left of the corner.

Kendos Only

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Starts in front of the tree, follow the bolts.

The Thing

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Four feet left of Kendos.

Robotron

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Two feet left of Robo Crack. Finger pockets.

Awful Width

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

central wide crack on the East Face of the Great Flake.

guide book says, "Right side in and off-width technique makes for this an effortless levitation. Lieback it for strenuous excercise"

Khazad Dum

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Inside the Inside passage. To reach, enter the inside passage from Fingernails and follow for 30 feet untill you see a dead end passage. This is the Khazad Dum chimney.

the guidebook says, "The Inside Passage tunnels through the formation to Dinkum Gully. It passes beneath a neglected chimney climb bellow the Khazad Arete"

-15 feet up you get your first pieces, small cams in an undercling crack
-above that you get a #6 and a #4 big bro (recomended)
-when you reach the small ledge, place your 3" and pull the mantle.
-bolts are lie awkwardly to the left (share bolts with Chaimberlin's Chimney)

13 Crack

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

The crack to the right of the painted 13, one of the first routes you come to. *Note*- It looks easier than it is.

Ghetto Blaster

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Short overhanging route on southside bluff. The climb is all by itself. Climb on huge holds to anchors. VERY overhanging with some big moves between bolts. Cool climb. The route is longer than 25ft since you start so far back in the cave. Probably only .11a/b but could be harder for a shorter climber.

Ebony & Ivory

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Left of Energy Crisis. Starts by going up the off width then traversing the big ledge. You could do a direct start too though. The crux is sequential. Nice top-out

Processed Meat

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Overhanging flake system on orange rock. Interesting climbing past four bolts to a two bolt anchor. 50 feet

Wormhole

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Arete located on the right wall. Stem up between two walls to attain the first bolt. Stimulating climbing with serveral moves leads up the arete past four more bolts and a two-bolt anchor, 60 feet. FFA: Tony Morris 1995

Mirage de Sade *

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Classic sport route for Arkansas. Great moves all the way to top with sustained moves the whole way. Crux comes around the middle to top half of climb.

XXX

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Hard start to easier climbing up top. Rarely climbed to it is dirty. Stick clip.....

Hausenfeifer

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

A fun slabby climb- guidebook say originally done on trad with 3 pieces.

Trubador

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Overhung arete.

Groovy

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Starts on the left side of small overhang. High step to start then good movement to anchors.

Red Bush

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Just left of the regular route, climb a finger crack with a pod up a clean blank granite face.

Party Panties

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Great sport route, 75 feet of 5.11 climbing, great, classic t. morris route.

Wizard and Glass

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

great slab climb. dr. siederburg got the f. a. on this. not sure he named it. i think it is harder than what i'm rating it, but i'm just quoting someone else's grade.

The Prow

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Do first piich of West face. Head left after exiting the 5.8 arching handcrack to a bolted belay. Head straight up from there for the crux...11b R to a rest then 12b fingers and thumb stacks to a bolted belay. Last pitch is a slab to a steep wide handcrack.

Tips V4

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Sit Start on West facing boulder thats slightly over hung. Sit start on far left side on slopey holds. Move up to shelf that leads to a series of crimps and slopers, move all the way right and top out. (not an easy top out)

DWS 5.8 (?)

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start on the low angle area on the left, traverse right across a low foot ledge about 6', climb up to a large flake continuing up right to the gnarly dead tree.

Many locals use this area for cliff jumping, but check the depth of the water before jumping, especially from the dead tree.

Pirate's Lookout

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Walk down from the upper jumble of boulders. follow single track to the left less than 100 yards. There will appear to be more small sized boulder, poison oak, and the tallest tower which is the Pirate's Lookout. Start matching on undercling and make your way up the left side of the small tower.
Highball

Barbed Wire

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

On the opposite side of bee's nest in the gully between rocks or through the corridor past trailblazer arete. Sit start at the right and bottom and cramp your way through first moves. Follow the arete up staying on the left side with good feet and left hand crimps. bust a big move and avoid throwing to the flake on the left at top because of possibility of the hold coming off and grab the crimp to the left. mantle on jug at top.

Tree Trouble

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Short, sharp, crimpy problem downhill from trailblazer arete and around the corner from barbed wire facing the south side. start with jug and traverse and mantle to the left of the tree avoiding all mossy areas and using the one uncovered left hand bomber and right slope to low mantle.

Wanted Man

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Climb the dihedral crack. Make sure to communicate loudly between your belayer, popular hangouts make commands nearly impossible to hear.

Unknown

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start about 40 feet right of the right hand start to the West Face route at a right trending flake system. Climb up the flakes/small corner past two bolts to a stance about 15 feet up. Move up into an obvious dihedral above then stem and layback up this to a sloping terrace. Move left to an anchor.

Vitamin P

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Some of the rock between the 3rd and 4th bolt seemed like they could be pulled off if someone really tried hard to yank it off. Be careful when you're on it, and be sure and give your belay a heads up when you reach that point just in case.

Follow the crack up to an awesome small ledge then a cruxy move to the 4th bolt and you're home free. Shares anchors with The Endorphinator

Oompa Loompa Traverse

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Traverse starting on big crimp over to finish on the right.

Superdoo

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

quick access route to the top of the Upper Tier. Much shorter and easier than it looks.

the guidebook lists it as 5.2 but the general consensus is higher, either way it is a simple climb

New Deli Line

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Unnamed #42

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Bird of Prey

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Cool arete traverse (one bolt) to steep fingers on diagonally double cracks. Pumpy to place gear.

Trespassers Will Be Violated

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

This classic line climbs the obvious dike on the south-west face of Little Hunk. If you've acquired a taste for runout slab, you'll find this to be one of the best face climbs in Joshua Tree. I consider it to be the Stitcher Quits of 5.10. Yet despite it's striking appearance and easy approach, it's rare to see a party on it. It goes into the sun in the late AM, making it ideal for cool winter days.

5.5 juggs lead to the first bolt - you'll be about 30 feet up now so go ahead and clip that sucker. Start traversing with your hands on the dike. There's a knob you can tie off about half way between the 1st and 2nd bolts - whether or not it would hold a fall is a crapshoot. A little ways after the 2nd bolt you'll want to climb upwards and get your feet on the dike. There's another bolt here which is part of the route Gun Shy. Clip it, or don't clip it if you want to do the route as it was done on the FA. But if you skip that bolt it might be a good idea to put a locker on the 2nd, it would be a disaster if that thing came unclipped during a fall. There's a couple crux moves here as you shuffle your feet along with poor handholds. It feels soft for 10c but it could just be that the rock is getting cleaner the more it gets climbed. After you clip the final bolt there's a 5.6 runout with another untrustworthy knob you can tie off if you want. Either head to the anchors off on the right, or go up and over the top (gear anchor here I believe, not sure about the walk-off).

The final runout is dangerous for the follower so make sure your partner is solid at the grade. If you want to climb this but can't find someone willing to follow you, you can go to the bolted anchors and get lowered off - essentially setting up a toprope on the climb. Then just switch places with your partner and clean the route yourself. If you've got a group of 3 or more and at least 2 ropes, it's possible to have the follower "lead" on another rope and re-clip behind him. This prevents a pendulum because he is being belayed from both ends. But someone will still have to clean the gear off.

Arm Bar

Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

A good crack climb. Great for practicing pro placements.

The Popsicle Kings

Thu, 20 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Twenty feet right of XL Puff Sneaker. Climbs the not quits as blank face right of XL Puff Sneaker to juggy face finish. Anchor above juggy face.

12 pack

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Stick clip high 1st bolt. Pull overhang. Veer right to 2nd clip. Back left then you'll have to commit at the top to reach anchors.

Attack of the Moss Clods II

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

East of 12 Pack. Left side of face. Still needs some cleaning.

Bloodmutt

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

!st route right of descent. Long reaches over nice bulges. Got the name when a newbie (nicknamed Mutt) tried the start and promptly cut his finger on a limestone pocket.

Digitalis

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Route furthest north. stick clip. Direct start off ground. Avoid detached boulder on right. Reach to mono is crux. 2 moves past anchors to top ledge gets the tick.

hellstrong

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

arete left of Left Eye. S.C. first bolt.

Whodunit

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

more later

Hot Monkey Love

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Found on the wall to the right of the S crack. This climb is slightly overhung and will dish out sloppers, monos, painful underclings and the like. Use the chicken head cautiously and enjoy the finishing crux. easy toprope access

Oh so slippery

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

The dihedral directly to the left of Hot Monkey Love. Must top out and walk around or rap of trees. Wet and mossy are not uncommon conditions.

3 pockets to heaven

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Overhanging pocket wall three or 4 big moves.

Devil cheats at Cards

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Long traverse to the link up with Hells Overhang

Acid Wash

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

sit start

Ring Eater Crack

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Chimney sized crack with lots of face climbing on edges. Walk past bluff around first arret. Crack will be obvious.

unnamed

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Farthest crack to the right on this rock, next to the trail going to the top. one well protected 5.8ish roof to a fun top out.

Between Love and Hate

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

hard little problem...very overhanging

Freddy Kreugar

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Climb the start of Fred P Jones. At the big "Fred P" ledge. Climb up left between two separately formed calcium stains in the rock that have been formed by water runoff.

unknown

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Line left of triangles, sloppy side pull crux after the second bolt, would like more information and name of this route.

Turkey Beard

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

A classic Linville Gorge experience. Begin on the Open Book. Climb through crux and up about 35 ft. Traverse along faint legde right to next dihedral. Compose through lower section and blast through crux (exiting dihedral). Recompose on face above for a few more exiting moves to a mantle on lichen covered jugs. Simply awesome!

variation: Ray of Disintegration

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

5.9+. Climb 22-Eyed Beholder Hovering Near By for 4 bolts, then cut left to a different 5th bolt and continue left to the leftmost two route's anchors (left of the Troll Bridge).

Chelsea Piers Sports Center

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

- Over 10,000 square feet
- 46' high x 100' wide main wall, with an adjacent 10' high x 73' wide bouldering wall
- Over-hung, 17' competition roof provides climbers with the ultimate challenge
- The Sports Center offers:
- Private/semi-private instruction: Non-members of Sports Center wishing to become belay-certified should take this class. One-hour private and semi-private sessions are available for beginner, intermediate and advanced climbers. Receive the special attention you need to target the appropriate techniques and/or challenges that you seek to conquer.
- Climbing school: Tuesdays, 6:30pm - 8:00pm and 8:30pm - 10:00pm
Participants must be belay-certified prior to the first class. This month-long program is open to members and non-members. Watch your climbing movement and technique become more fluid and efficient. The low student/instructor ratio allows instructors to focus on your specific needs. Novice climbers will discover the basic body movements used in climbing to facilitate their improvement and efficiency.
- Gym to crag: Members and non-members who take a lesson at the Sports Center may then take it outdoors to the cliff with EMS Climbing Schools. Trips are made frequently to the Shawanagunks in New Paltz, NY. Special rates are reserved for those who have taken lessons with us. Call the Rock Wall at 212.336.6083 for scheduling and information.

Cold Feet

Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Directly off of the white trail, you'll see a boulder that has two vertical parallel rock pillars with about 4' between them. The route starts on the bottom of the northwest face.
Two hands on the crack feature with an under-cling for a right and a small jib for a right foot. Big left move to a left facing sloper and the a big right to a right facing crimp on the west face. Next is a left hand just above the sloper, to a flat left facing hold stick it and use the protruding vertical feature slightly right to top out.

buddha's delight

Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

5 move problem...start with both hands on the slopers on the right..

Hobo

Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

probably v9/10 now was the broken holds..

The Opus

Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

left version of hobo

Karajo

Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

New Pair llow start

Flight of the Bumblebee

Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

1st Pitch- 30m- 5.9/ Start up the short, but steep, wall past a bolt to access a corner. Move out left and clip a bolt on the wall and enter the steep corner above. Place gear and jam at will. Past a ledge with a piton belay (A-Route) and follow a shallow groove to a comfortable one man belay ledge with rappel rings on the left.

2nd Pitch- 30m- 5.9/ Continue up the groove past a bolt, making a move left to another bolt below a steep wall. Climb the wall on thin holds (crux of the pitch). Angle right to clip another bolt. Surmount a shattered bulge and continue angling right to another rappel ring belay on yet another ledge.

3rd Pitch- 50m- 5.9/ This was the rope drag from hell the way I did it and is the crux pitch of the route. Climb a groove directly above the belay past a bolt gaining a short slab. Continue up the slab and make a crux move over a bulge at another bolt. Climb a finger crack with good pro to just below an overhang. Gain the roof on the right via a mantle move and traverse far over into a steep and loose gully. I went left up a loose and precarious wall as the guide book suggested. Instead, stick with the center of the gully and climb up to a ring bolt belay on a solid piece of wall to your left at the top of the East End. This is a rope stretcher. Place double length runners where possible.

The Good Stuff

Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Fun Patina crrimps curving left to a juggy steep finish.

Roratonga

Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Starts in the crack, move up and left on touchy-feely face climbing.

ratraversy

Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

start low/sit start with both hands on the prominent "bulge" used as a major foothold on the flake problem. move left to the flake, up a bit, and then further left into the middle of the tweaky shit crux. move up to the rail, traverse it left to the small corner above small chossy boulders (bad landing), and follow the flakes at the corner to the top.

Chip Seal

Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start on Roratonga then move right and up to a chain anchor.

Zip Drive

Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start in a layback corner, move up and over bulge on hard crimp moves to a small ledge, then move up the thin slab to anchors.

Zip Drive

Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start in a layback corner, move up and over bulge on hard crimp moves to a small ledge, then move up the thin slab to anchors.

Chimney

Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Fun Chimney, like the book says maybe better with knee Pads.

Twilight

Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Left of Carol's Crack, climb large grooves that turn into cracks.

Rollercoaster

Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

The book shows this as a TR, but has now been bolted. Left of Private Idaho, climb past bolts to chain anchor.

Float like a Butterfly, Sting like a Scorpian

Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

This is on the rim of the left-most part of the cave. Follow the corner up and as you hit the top of the arch moving right, reach behind you and cut your feet to the large bulge and head straight up to top out. Named for the dead scorpion found caught in the web at the top of the arch.

rat rock traverse

Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

start on the "starter flake", or at the bottom of the layback crack, on the right side of the north face. traverse left, using polished and sometimes crappy footholds. turn the corner and either step off onto low angle rock or return back right. The lip is "off."

Cuba Creepy Crawl

Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Located on the rightmost wall of the cave at the front. Start matched on a nice smooth limestone feature on the front of the bulge, now reach with left around back to a nice hold. Get your second hand around and scramble up to the top. This route is names for the extreme creepiness of the cave. Pockets go deep into darkness where who knows what lives.

At the Bees Knees

Tue, 18 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start on the low center bulge with your left hand in the giant handle. Work your way up and slightly left (to avoid the giant bees nest on the right) and then straighten out and up.

Infinity Minus 1 Possibilities

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Route sits on the NNE face of Ray of Light Spire (behind, or south of, the main rock comprising Sokehs Rock), Pohnpei. To set the toprope, you MUST have a long rope (over 330 feet) or use two ropes. To set the toprope, you must free solo the back of the spire (Jungle infested 5.7 if dry). Only protection option I found was a tree halfway up! As of right now, I know of no ascents, so this one is still a project. 2 bolts and chains are located at the top of the cliff facing the pipe commonly used to climb the main rock of the Sokehs formation. Rating is only a guess, as I haven't had time to work the route except for the first 80 feet or so. HAVE FUN!

Jupiter 2

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

1. Funky 5.9+ groove
2. glassy 11c stem and lieback corner
3. wandering 10d past a bolt
4. cactusy 5.8
5. Indian creek style 10b fingers to hands dihedral

Nationwide

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Yikes! Got to love the Sun Wall for the infamous dirty holds and adventure climbs. Every time I get out here I feel like I'm doing some FA. Dirty holds and at least some sketch rock. That said the climbing is great if not bold as hell.

This route starts just right of Dialing for Buckets under a left facing blocky corner/roof. Look straight up at the water groove and shoot for it. Our final belay was just below the last groove. Expect run outs and some bad gear. Also plan on wiping off the dinge from every handhold as not too many people get over here. Wherever the route gets really cruxy try wandering left of the groove. After pulling through the final groove bust it up and WAY right to the rap ledge with rings on the far side. Full length. One rap to the ground with two 60ms.

Broken English

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

On the left side of the Gill wall, starts in high crimps. Thin face climbing to the top. A rap from the top to clean/inspect holds is probably necessary.

Brothers of a Different Mother

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

This route is to the far right approx 200 of black and tan. You will see the bolts going up the blank left face of a dihedral

Swingtown 13b

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Amazing!

Allison's Tower

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

This tower is short and sweet. The route is on the north side of the tower, towards the right. It follows two short slightly overhanging dihedrals to a ledge. From this ledge, climb up the huge scary looking flake, and continue easily to the top. The two cruxes are in the dihedrals at the beginning, and are finger-size dependent.

Slope John Paul

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

As you walk down the trail is on the outside
of the left part of the boulder, facing the trail. The problem starts
in the middle, a little to the left (if looking at the boulder) on a
ledge (stand start). You traverse right a couple moves and find
yourself on a big sloper. once you are on the sloper you go straight
up to some ledges.

Big happy family

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Starts on the far side of the boulder and follows the arete up.

A walk on the Swasey Side

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

P1: Climb 5.7 past 3 bolts, then follow the ridge to a huge belay ledge. Set a gear anchor.

P2: Move out onto the exposed arete, climb up past a few bolts to the final summit block. 5.8+

Jacks' Tower- Pair of Jacks

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

5.8 A0. The 3 bolt section might go free at 5.11? This route climbs the north face up a series of meandering cracks which lead to a diagonal seam protected by three bolts, then on to the summit.

The Moqui Dugway

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

As you enter the canyon from the trail you will look right and see a large fin which stands about 150 feet from the big log jam in the creek. Trigonometry is to it's right, The Moqui Dugway is on the left side of the fin. As you walk toward the fin and up the hill at the base of the fin, go around it's left side and you will see a crack starting in a short dihedral then continuing about 80 feet. Sweet hand and foot jams on steep rock.

Firewire

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

start as for bladerunner
at the second bolt trend left to the arret. move up on big steep jugs to the roof crux and PULL !!

Wild Rumpus

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

This route is at the far left end of the Lower Sullies, and is the start of the Nursery Wall.

Bam Bam

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Climbs the arete to the right of Wild Rumpus.

Big Bowl

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Starts just right of the Bam Bam arete.

Keystone

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Starts on a crack running up an arete, then traverses right on a black face.

Pocket Full of Lichen

Sun, 16 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Dihedral left of Scared Seamless, continuous offwidth up the corner.

I doubt this has been climbed before. It didn't seem to have had any traffic. I haven't done much offwidth, so rating is iffy.

Salmonaid

Sun, 16 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Some of the A2+ rating comes from rock quality. Tap tap!

Jurassic

Sun, 16 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start between the egg's crack and climb up in the center of the taller side of the crack. Bring two pads so that if you fall down you won't hit your head behind you.

The Plague

Sun, 16 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Brick Wall - Retroed

Vaselina (??)

Sun, 16 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

First rout left from "Curto grosso e cheio de v�ias", at the edge. The bellay must be careful during the first moves of the climber. If the climber fells down he may hit the ground. Some parts of the rock are loose and may break apart.

Little Foot's Spine

Sun, 16 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

The lower arete/ ridge starting from the side closest to the trail.

Mineral Engineering

Sun, 16 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

sit start to pinches and crimpy goodness!

Dyno-Bites

Sun, 16 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start sitting at the end of the crack that is farthest away from the trail. Climb up the bigger side of the egg on the arete.

Yavasky

Sun, 16 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

over hung start

vertical to a crossarmed high step right crux

variation: Tim, the Goatheaded Wizard

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Easier variation of the pure face climb Gelatinous Cube's Deadly Solevent (11c). Both are a sweet routes, though the bolts are right of the variation and falls involve swings.

Clip the safety rope to reach the start on the wedge-shaped boulder. Belayer can go up that boulder and sling the 1st bolt, or else belay down below the boulder (clipping into the safety rope).

At the start, go left along the undercling flake and then straight up on crimps left of the bolt line. Cross back right onto Gelatinous Cube when the holds get better.

Cosmic Horror

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Climb Shubb Niggorath's Pinky Boulder (just right of route #12's crack) to the landing. Climb the face left of the ladder.

muck slide

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

A more direct descent route only. Not more than a class 4.

variation Psychic Venom

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

A variation on route#12. Start between the cracks of routes #11 and #12; both cracks are off-route. Pull the little roof. Stay left of the bolt line on your right. A fun variation that makes for a sustained challenge compared to route #12.

V3

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

the overhang to the right of the V2. sit start and use anything for you left and the jug pocket for your right, then make the moves straight up, and either dynoing or using the sloper and crimp jug, but either way the feet will cut, finish up top; awesome route

V5

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

this route starts on the jugs used for the V2, using a heel cam as well because you must then traverse right, climbing up the V3, and instead of making the crux moves, you proceed out left to hit the huge jug pocket (with potential to fall into the water), and then cross through to top out and finish.

looks ridiculous............

traverse curse

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

traverse the entire wall from right to left with the pockets, slopers, and jugs and constant heel hooks

Biceptor

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

walk far right to see a boulder that has a large shelf for feet, start with hands crossed in the jug undercling, a heel hook and make a hard move to the left hand sloping jug, then cross right to the top jug block, match and finish up top

Not a One Mover

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

to the right of small start, grab the jug ledges that extended right from small start, and then move onto more jugs to realize that the top is slightly harder than it seems

Cyclops' Eye

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Stand on a boulder left of the "ruined castle wall", left hand in a huge bumpy pocket. This route also starts the two traverses Siren's Song Forever (high traverse) and Deadly Breath of Dragons (low traverse).

Hydra's Hissing Heads

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start standing on the leftmost point of the �ruined castle wall�.

variation: Hundred Handed Ones

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Clip 2 draws and then merge right onto the high traverse (Siren's Song Forever), keeping hands above the first 5 chained biners, clipping 15 total draws. Downclimb to the ground. The Hundred Handed Ones (Hecatonchires) were monster-giants so ugly their father Uranus pushed them back into mom�s womb.

Basilisk's Glance of Death

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Clip two draws,then merge right onto the low traverse (Deadly Breath of Dragons), keeping hands below the first 5 chained biners. Downclimb to the ground.

Runout Chimney

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Start in the Chimney work your up way up past this section, then transfer out onto the ledge system. Once you pass the ledges, you will be left to a large runout of simple slab. Be sure you are ready to commit to the slab. As you climb the top rope drag becomes a problem as well as communication. Recommend radios if you have em. ***Didn't find any information on this route in the guidebook or online, so if anyone knows the name of the route, or the FA just contact me to update it.***

Medusa's Snakes all Staring

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Stand on the rightmost point of the "ruined castle wall".

variation: Poseidon and the Sea Nymph

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Clip 2 draws, then merge right onto the high traverse (hands above chained biners), clipping 13 chained biners. The god and nymph coupled in Athena�s temple; she dealt with it by turning the nymph into Medusa.

V4

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

start the V2 boulder with the lower crimp holds, adding 2-3 moves to the V2,

although the guy who showed me this extension was strong, its a V2+ at the most

Indian Beauty Queen

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

left margin of south face to the sw ridge. skirt around the upper ridge gendarms to the east. follow nice crack system to the east ridge. summit boulder problem is about 5.11+.

Meltdown

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Left of Devils Highway.

Triple Overhangs

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

A few strenuous moves through overhang sections spaced between the large ledges.

Turning Point

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

This ascends thin cracks that begin to the right of a tree on the south face. From there, move left following a series of bulges, finish on easy face to a one bolt/gear anchor.

Two Sigs

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Short traverse followed by slight gaston. Top out possible if desired and rock is dry.

Rigamortis

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Fun boulder problem. Works along a lower crack. Juggy till the end, gets a little crimpy.

White on

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

forty feet left and up from space cadets. climb the bolder (slim pro) but gain the left leaning crack and and to the right of the overhang in the crack system to two bolt anchor immediatly to the right

Smiley Face

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 00:00:00 -0800

Almost right on corner, nice big sit start, bump right hand to side pull, work up and right. Good, easy problem, finish with a smile on your face!