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sizzlechest
Jan 8, 2002, 6:29 PM
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Bolted Multipitch Climbs Good or Bad?
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Here in the Canadian Rockies we have alot of bolted multipitch climbs, they are mostly on blank sections of limestone that are unprotectable by gear although some are both gear and bolts. These take a massive amount of work to set up and personally I enjoy them alot, there is all varieties, easy to very hard 5.8 - 5.13, what is everyones opinion on them?
And don't panic I do trad climb alot so take it easy on the sportclimber bashing !!
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rrrADAM
Jan 8, 2002, 6:33 PM
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Bolted Multipitch Climbs Good or Bad?
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Good. If it cannot be protected traditionally, then bolt it if it's allowed in the Area concerned.
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paintinhaler
Jan 8, 2002, 6:58 PM
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Bolted Multipitch Climbs Good or Bad?
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Adam said it great. When a climb can't be protected traditionally bolts should be used. Many multipitch climbs are sport. So yes I think its jest fine to have bolted multipitch climbs.
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wolftek
Jan 9, 2002, 7:26 AM
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Bolted Multipitch Climbs Good or Bad?
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There's a multi-pitch bolted route out here in JT. If it wasn't bolted I don't think too many people would attempt it...it's staight face climbing. I think it's great it makes a climb you would be skeptical about into a climb you're confident of due to the bolts.
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pianomahnn
Jan 9, 2002, 8:13 AM
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Bolted Multipitch Climbs Good or Bad?
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El Potrero Chico....
Enough said?
Jeebus, I need to get down there.
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ryanguy
Jan 14, 2002, 3:04 PM
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Bolted Multipitch Climbs Good or Bad?
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Multi-pitch sport routes rule. No screwing with gear and you get plenty of exposure.
Where exactly are you refering to? I should come check it out.
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mikedano
Jan 14, 2002, 3:21 PM
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Bolted Multipitch Climbs Good or Bad?
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I totally agree. I actually wish there were more bolted multipitch routes here in Colorado, just because bolted routes are faster to climb. But, as with most posters, I agree bolts only belong where pro can't go.
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camhead
Jan 14, 2002, 3:44 PM
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Bolted Multipitch Climbs Good or Bad?
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I feel that the ethics concerning bolting are the same whether dealing with single or multi-pitch routes. Basically, if the route is not in a wilderness area, and it cannot be safely protected naturally, it is proper. There are even some mixed-pro routes where I am, and I believe that this is totally acceptable given the above criteria.
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gekolimit
Feb 16, 2002, 11:55 PM
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Bolted Multipitch Climbs Good or Bad?
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I think natural climbers who Disssss Sport climbers are selfish...
Why don't they just let us enjoy what we climb? They can go climb anywhere they want...we can't...so just beat it if you have a problem with us.
Maybe they haven't considered the fact that not everyone is stinking rich. The gear is expensive...and if you have it...well lucky you, i'm glad for you. I don't have it, so how about giving me a break and letting me climb what i can climb.
I'm willing to take on an email argument with anyone who wants to diss me. Common Natural people???????
How about supporting those who don't have the possibility? (long live the BOLT)
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gekolimit
Feb 17, 2002, 12:00 AM
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Bolted Multipitch Climbs Good or Bad?
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(sorry for the temper)
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greatgarbanzo
Feb 17, 2002, 5:32 AM
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Bolted Multipitch Climbs Good or Bad?
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If the routes CAN NOT be protected the traditional way I am OK with it... otherwise... :mad:
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buoux
Feb 16, 2006, 6:04 PM
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If you can't place gear......bolt away. Make it good for all.
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raymondjeffrey
Feb 16, 2006, 6:29 PM
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Routes should be 'couth'. Bolt them so that they get lots of traffic. A bolted route that gets gets only little traffic is a waste of the bolters time and money. You dig?
Jefro
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kricir
Feb 16, 2006, 7:58 PM
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everyone else already said it:
bolts next to cracks=BAD!
bolts on long blank sections=GOOD!
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climbingaggie03
Feb 16, 2006, 8:51 PM
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I like bolted multipitch, especially at potrero, but one thing that bothers me is if someone is bolting a line and they decide to make it an R/X climb, I just don't see any reason to do this. If you are bolting on lead, maybe, but why? I don't think we should grid bolt, and I'm not even a huge fan of how close the bolts are on most sport climbs, but it seems silly to have to risk a deck on a bolted line.
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