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j_dub
Apr 13, 2004, 4:18 PM
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Just curious what people like for belaying. I recently bought the Petzl 'attache' biner, and it doesn't feel as secure as the Omega Pacific 'Jake' I used at the gym. The screwgate doesn't feel like it screws shut as securely. And the thing is small.
Also, do you feel safe with a quick-lock biner or just with a screwgate? I get nervous with the quick-locks, because it seems like the rope or your anchor could open it pretty easily by sliding over the gate.
Preferences? Thoughts?
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trenchdigger
Apr 13, 2004, 4:21 PM
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I like the big bend of the OP Jake for use with my ATC-XP.
~Adam~
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mtman
Apr 13, 2004, 4:24 PM
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i use a black diamond airlock, it is big and is exelent for belayng, i have the one with the screw lock, i agree with you on the Autolock
mtman
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euroford
Apr 13, 2004, 7:41 PM
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the yates gecko is the ultimate locker. hands down.
for starters, its a keynose autolocker, to my knowedge the only one in existance. to back this up, its strong with a nice sexy form :P
oh yeah, and screwlocks suck.
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crazygirl
Apr 13, 2004, 7:43 PM
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i make my own
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frosty
Apr 13, 2004, 8:10 PM
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Petzl Am'D Ball Lock. You can open it with one hand even in ice gloves and it automatically locks when you release the gate.
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geezergecko
Apr 13, 2004, 8:13 PM
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The Petzl Tri-acts are also keylock auto lockers. The Petzl Williams HMS and Am'D come in Tri-act versions. 3 separate actions are required which make these as reliable and idiot proof as possible currently.
As for Petzl screwlocks, the hoods do not go all the way to the nose of the carabiner so that means they won't get stuck when used in an anchor unlike some other makes. No partly turning loose required.
My favourite belay carabiner is the DMM Belaymaster, especially when used with a Reverso. A big piece of plastic in the middle prevents the carabiner from ever flipping over and cross loading - a good thing.
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j_dub
Apr 13, 2004, 9:07 PM
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In reply to: As for Petzl screwlocks, the hoods do not go all the way to the nose of the carabiner so that means they won't get stuck when used in an anchor unlike some other makes. No partly turning loose required.
Ok.. that explains my problems/fears with the screwgate (yes, I've been tightening it all the way, but was living in fear that it would get stuck).
Somehow I trust the auto-lock on the auto-belay (clip it into both anchor points on my harness, though, and make sure the gate faces away from me so it isn't catching on my harness), but don't trust one when belaying. :? There's too much stuff moving through and in the biner. Call me paranoid.. I just have this vision of a sling twisting the gate open somehow. Don't know how that would actually happen, but it makes me nervous. (I'm also a little reluctant to use equipment like autolock biners, gri-gri's, and the petzl auto-double-back harnesses, just because they all could make you somewhat lazy and less awake, not because I think they are actually less safe.. but complacency can be dangerous.)
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adeptus
Apr 13, 2004, 9:10 PM
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Petzl Attache because it's easy to see if it's locked.
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euroford
Apr 13, 2004, 9:11 PM
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In reply to: The Petzl Tri-acts are also keylock auto lockers. The Petzl Williams HMS and Am'D come in Tri-act versions. 3 separate actions are required which make these as reliable and idiot proof as possible currently.
yeah, except all of those biners are a total PITA. why can't they just make a normal autolocker instead of all this stupid funky stuff?!?
i've never even had a non locker open up on me, i certainly don't expect a nice normal autolocker do it. its nice, its simply, its easy, and it WORKS.
why screw with that. like i said, the yates gecko is the only game in towne.
on another note, i love my petzl corax harness and my petzl gri-gri. the gear doesn't make the climber safe, the climber does by how he uses it and i find these all to be very good tools.
my gri-gri is my primary industrial rope access rapell device and i think it rules. i attach it to my petzl harness with an autolock biner!
my god, i can't beleive i'm still alive.
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halcyon
Apr 13, 2004, 9:37 PM
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OP jake. I have no worries about the autolock. It would take quite a bit of play to get that gate to open, and besides, the chances of it opening and 8 kn of force put on the BELAY at the same time is slim. That's a mighty whipper. I've never had any problem with the autolock even snapping on it's own. For anything else but a belay biner though i do only use screwgates, just to be safe.
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vegastradguy
Apr 13, 2004, 9:53 PM
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Petzl Attache. Absolutely, hands down the best belay carabiner out there.
The Williams are far too large, along with alot of the carabiners mentioned above. This isnt to say they dont work (any locker will!), but why use such a big carabiner?
I use the attache to belay both on a single 10.2mm and double 8.6mm and i've never felt like it isnt big enough.
Keep your williams and other large lockers for your power points on belay, use the little pears for belaying!
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jajohnst
Apr 13, 2004, 10:52 PM
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Registered: Apr 5, 2003
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OP Jake hands down, got four of them.
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emtclimber
Apr 13, 2004, 10:54 PM
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Registered: May 26, 2003
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BD airlock 2 screwgate, got 3 of them, one for me, one for the wife, and a spare.
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andypro
Apr 13, 2004, 11:03 PM
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In reply to: OP Jake hands down, got four of them.
I third (or is it 4th or 5th by now?) the Jakes. I use regular screwgates. Have a bunhc of them.
I've seriosuly been considering the Belaymaster to go along with my TRE though. It would help keep things stable when that little rubber doodad takes a hike (I'm just waiting for that one...that thing worries me sometimes).
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climberpunk
Apr 13, 2004, 11:22 PM
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i use the BD Mini Pearbiner. its a nice size, shape, and handles the rope well. before that i used an airlock, but as mentioned, its kinda huge.
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lukeskywalker
Apr 14, 2004, 12:15 AM
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Registered: Dec 26, 2003
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Get the DMM Belaymaster.. It has a plastic catch that ensures the biner won't crossload and that it's locked.. I got this one after I saw how frequently my DMM Boa got crossloaded with the rope running right accross the gate, didn't like that very much..
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cragmaster
Apr 14, 2004, 12:15 AM
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I have used my petzel am de ball lock for about a year and a half now. Works great, don't let any sand get into the gate. Also the lock mechanism will not open if something rubs it like a screw lock might.
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boss
Apr 14, 2004, 12:47 AM
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Registered: Sep 29, 2002
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Definitely OP Jake. They're huuuuuuge and really easy to work with. I stick with the screw gate.
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dirtineye
Apr 14, 2004, 4:00 AM
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I use petzl williams bacause if I lose my atc I still have a good munter biner.
I totally despise the attache, and I have 4 nearly new ones that I will trade for something I do want, such as an aid hammer. Any takers?
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nthusiastj
Apr 14, 2004, 4:26 AM
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Registered: Sep 3, 2002
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I use BD mini pearabiners for almost all of my lockers. They are nice and multi-functional. They are great with any device and a munter or clove hitch fit in it nicely.
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madyak
Apr 14, 2004, 1:41 PM
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Registered: Apr 7, 2004
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I love my attache's but they're a bit small when you have to drop a bunch of stuff into your main biner (i.e. escaping belays/raps). I've come to really love my DMM mamba - big 'biner, autolocks w/ a safety. Other than that, I reserve my williams for my ascenders b/c I prefer a shaped 'biner for actually belaying.
Just so long as it has a wide rope bearing surface, a nice shape to prevent rotation, and plenty of room inside, I'm fairly happy with it.
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reedcrr
Apr 14, 2004, 1:45 PM
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Registered: Mar 26, 2004
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Williams hands down!
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petsfed
Apr 16, 2004, 7:00 PM
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I use the OP Jake screwgate because its gigantic. Which is good when you're tired/cold/etc. Gives you a bigger target. Works very well with the reverso. It does not, however, like the little hole on the gri-gri. So I use a petzl attache for that.
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climbinginchico
Apr 16, 2004, 7:33 PM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
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I love my OP Jake screwlock with my ATC-XP. great, secure combo.
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