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Quick-tips to save time on the rock.

Submitted by crux_clipper on 2002-04-07

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I think we have all encountered a time at one stage or another, when hanging from a crimp with burning forearms trying to find that elusive peice of gear needed at that moment. So I decided to create a list of tips that could help to save precious time and energy by making gear finding faster and easier.

Now I know that many people may already know of these tricks, but for those who don't, they are godsends on the face.

TIP #1:
Ever needed a runner for a short traverse? Ever tried to MAKE one while holding on? Don't bother, here are two variations of pre-made runners that are easy to clip.
- First one is to simple double up the sling you wish to use as the runner, and clip the biners into it, making into a long 'draw. When it comes to using it, simple unclip ONE! of the loops and pull out.
- The second, I find, is a better way of making the runner. Clip the sling as normal, as it would be when used as as a runner. Then pass one of the biners through the other biner. You should be left with two loops of sling. Clip theloops into the biner that was passed through. This is shorter as a draw than the first, and a bit stiffer. When needed, again, unclip all loops except for one, and pull out.

TIP #2:
It not a good thing to drop gear, and it is possible everytime you unclip from the pro on second. So here is a tip to make sure that the risk of dropping of gear is minimised.
- Carry a 60cm sling around your torso (make sure the leader doesn't take it up), and as you approach a peice of protection, unclip it from the rope DIRECTLY to the sling (or even to the gear loops on your harness)without taking the pro out of the rock. Then if you dropped the cam as you extract it, it will fall onto the sling or gear loop, and not the hard ground 20 meters below.

TIP #3:
It becomes a clutter to carry all your 60cm and 120cm slings and/or cordelette around your torso. So to keep them together, easy to get to, and easy to carry, try tying them into daisy chains.
- Start near the knot of th sling or cordelette, and form a loop, with the rope finishing on top of the other. Then pull a bight of the top rope trough the initial loop, and continue to the end of the sling/cordelette. The loop-in-a-loop method. They take up a lot less space. And to pull it all out, simply grab the end bit of the rope, and pull. It should all come undone if it was done correctly.

I hope what I have said makes sense, and if you have any questions about anything I have said, PM me, and I will try to explain it better.


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