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Rock Climbing : News : Ascents : Caldwell and Sjong free Magic Mushroom in a push.

Caldwell and Sjong free Magic Mushroom in a push.


Submitted by twbaker on 2008-05-22

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by Ted Baker


"Tommy Caldwell, continuing his historic Yosemite free-climbing sweep, has confirmed the first free ascent of El Capitan’s Magic Mushroom (V A3 5.7, ca. 2,900', Burton-Sutton, 1972). He was joined on the climb by Justen Sjong, who, among other El Cap ticks, has freed Golden Gate (VI 5.13b, Huber-Huber, 2000), the Salathé Wall (VI 5.9 A2, Frost-Pratt-Robbins, 1961; FFA: 5.13b Piana-Skinner, 1988) and the Muir Wall (VI 5.9 A2, Chouinard-Herbert, 1965; FFA: 5.13c, Caldwell, 1995). The pair began up the route on May 12; it is believed they climbed it all free ground-up in a push... The free ascent marked the eleventh free climb Caldwell has done on El Cap..." -Luke Bauer, Alpinist

Follow link for More info: alpinist.com

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8 Comments CommentAdd a Comment

 flamer
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 2008-05-23
The title should be changed. The style was not "in a push", it was ground up. I know that this site only use's info from news sites ( instead of getting their own), but interpreting "in a 5day push" to mean "in a push" is silly.

This was a very proud send by 2 strong climbers. Please don't confuse people by changing the "style" of ascent.
 notapplicable
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 2008-05-23
Very, very impressive climbing. Much respect to Caldwell and Sjong.
 flamer
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 2008-05-24
A 5day push and "in a push" are 2 different things.
"In a push" is a standard way to say they did it without stopping to sleep, which is a weird way of saying it but gtes the point across. There is a big difference between a camping trip and a long hike.
While ground up way not be the correct way either, it was not "in a push".
Another way to look at is in context of "in a day". Some single push ascent's are not accomplished in under 24 hours, thus not "in a day". But the team didn't stop to sleep or rest or what have you. Thus you have fairly continous motion. This is "in a push", and would be a much "bigger" acheivement than "in a 5 day push".
Look at Tommy or Lynn's free ascent's of the Nose...then look at how much attention it got when they did it in a
day.

The most fitting description would probably be "Alpine" or "capsule" style...but those just don't seem to fit.

In any case this was a very big accomplishment and both climbers deserve big kudos. but it was not done "in a push".

josh
 flamer
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 2008-05-26
How about Trust fund style? Or maybe "I'm off my meds again" style? No Wait!!! "I'm a self righteous asshole" style!!
 flamer
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 2008-05-26
...or you could take a look at the other folks who think "in a push" means no bivi's.......

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=599796&tn=0

josh
 blitzkrieg_climber13
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 2008-05-29
or you can both stop being gay and go rock climb
 wolfdog
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 2008-06-03
How about Friggin totally Rad badass Groundup Push style. What it is, is what it is. Blitxkreig got it right, climbing is everything, these forums really suck.
Congrads and best wishes to Tommy and Justen, the two best rock climbers in the world. Long may you reign!
 flamer
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 2008-06-10
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/newswire-magic-mushroom-free-day

Now that's 'In a push'.
Holy shit Tommy.

josh

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