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Re: [jt512] Great Ideas!:
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jimdavis
Jan 6, 2007, 7:16 AM
Views: 1768
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935
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jt512 wrote: jimdavis wrote: I get of lot of bull, from various users questioning what I know, based on what level I climb at. Jim, what you fail to understand is that it is not "bull." If you only climb 5.9 or .10-, then your understanding of climbing movement is rudimentary. At the end of a 4-day course in climbing, the best students in the class will likely already out-climb you. You are under the bizarre misconception that introductory climbing instruction should be restricted to safety and equipment. Hence, you think that you are qualified to design climbing curricula, in spite of your paucity of actual climbing skill. That could not be farther from the truth. Even back in 1985, when I took my first climbing lesson at the Yosemite Mountaineering School, we were taught rudimentary climbing movement skills before we ever put on a swami, tied a single knot, or learned to belay. Jay
Jay, I don't really disagree with you that much. And your welcome to not belive a word I have to say now, but it's not so much that I don't have an understanding of climbing movement, I just don't often build up the finger strength to do much harder stuff.
I've climbed a 12 on slab before, and a short 11 or two...when I was climbing strong, and was motivated to climb harder. I've spent a lot of time working at a gym, and get to boulder a lot too...it's usally my wrist that give out...not get stumbled by a lack of technique. I'm not the type of person to give excuses, but as I chose to say in confidence to Plexus, which is apparently fair game for the rest of the boards...I still have a bone chip in my wrist, about the size of a dime, from a snowboarding accident. It only bothers me when I have to crimp hard with my left hand, or pull really hard...but I don't think not having my left hand for 6 months after surgery is worth it, at this point in time.
I'm not claimed to be some kind of expert at movement, but I do have a decent understanding of technique. I'm not gonna say I can coach some one up a 13, or even a 12...depending on the nature of the climb....but I know enough to teach beginner courses, and a few intermediate ones.
I've yet to have a student sign up for a intro trip that could climb above 5.9...it hasn't been a problem. And on my trips, I do offer some beta on routes, or techniques to try. Every trip I lead, I get anonymos feedback forms from all of my participants...if it was a problem, I'd address it, and admit to it.
If I was embarrased about the level I climb at, I wouldn't have put it up in my profile.
When users call BS on my hard skills, due to what I climb at...then yea, that's bull.
Jim
(This post was edited by jimdavis on Jan 6, 2007, 7:27 AM)
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Post edited by jimdavis
() on Jan 6, 2007, 7:27 AM
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