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Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [jt512] Belayer Failure = Broken Back: Edit Log




billl7


Feb 23, 2007, 10:41 PM

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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1890
Re: [jt512] Belayer Failure = Broken Back
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jt512 wrote:
gblauer wrote:
Basically, yes.

I believe a more capable/experienced belayer would have been able to effectively lockoff in the position. Her 2 years of experience, coupled with all of the other stuff mentioned above seemed to have impacted her ability to lock off with her hand outstretched. (away from her body).

Huh? That is not how you lock off an ATC -- ever! You bring your brake hand down to your hip.

Jay
More to the point, the break hand needs to pull in the opposite direction of the load strand for max breaking. In a typical gym setting, that is down at the hip. But the analysis included that the belayer was in a poor position. Worst case would be if the belayer was way way out from under the 1st clip with the break hand in the general direction of the first clip. Edit: with an ATC.


(This post was edited by billl7 on Feb 23, 2007, 11:05 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by billl7 () on Feb 23, 2007, 11:05 PM


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