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Re: [treddy] Belaying two seconds on double ropes?:
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rockguide
Mar 10, 2007, 6:31 AM
Views: 3088
Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1359
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treddy wrote: I'm heading out on a trip where I will probably be doing some climbing as a party of three. I've done this before using my reverso to bring up two seconds at once, drastically cutting down the time required to do a route. On this trip, however, I have a brand spanking new pair of double ropes I plan to start using, and was wondering: is it safe to simultaneously belay two seconds on double ropes (i.e. one on each strand)? Thanks, Tim
It depends.
For a straight up route that has no sharp edges and low chance of rockfall, yes.
If one pitch wanders and you are planning on clipping separately, then consider - are you exposing one second to an unforgiving swinging fall? Best to go with two single ropes and belay one at a time (with the middle back clipping the second rope.
If there are sharp edges and traverses (I am from the Canadian Rockies, BTW) then 9mm too thin to handle the abrasion of a second fall. Belaying two people at once on major traverses has problems as well if one person falls and knocks the other off.
If there is likely rock fall (again ... look where I am from) then 9mm is too thin.
When I bring up two seconds, I often do it on 2x10mm or 10.5mm ropes. I lead on one while clipping the second one to important directionals and belaying one at a time. Burly? Heck yeah. I take care of my seconds. Powered by dark beer.
I then have the option on leading on a single rope with the other rope between #2 and #3 if the individual pitch warrants it.
Granite slabs and straight up routes? I would go light. If only my life was so easy. Sigh.
I don't think any of the rope manufacturers advocate belaying a second on a single half rope or twin. Their scientists may be smarter than me, so I go with their specs.
(This post was edited by rockguide on Mar 10, 2007, 3:29 PM)
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Post edited by rockguide
() on Mar 10, 2007, 3:29 PM
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