Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [mturner] Training for dynos: Edit Log




ghisino


Oct 25, 2007, 7:32 PM

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Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 249

Re: [mturner] Training for dynos
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mturner wrote:
ghisino wrote:
-building specific strenght to improve some specific technique is often the fastest way around a problem/move/route, but not always.
Sometimes working out a different beta works better.

Working out a move using different beta requires a different skill, therefore a different technique is used.

yes, of course.

what's the problem with this?
some techniques are better than others?
Are we climbing a different boulder problem or route if we solve it in a totally different way from the established beta???
Do we care about sending the f*cking thing, or about doing it "the right way" ???


then, as far as training goes, one might think "I suck at dynos. They might be useful some time in my future. Let's improve them", and I totally agree with this.

But if one looks at it from the sending point of view, one should be open to different techniques and possibilities, and care about getting the most from his current potential.
Even if this means going static where everyone else dynos.
Or, on the contrary, dynoing where everyone else does some clever move that's way too complicated for you.




edit :
I can't understand training without a sending purpose, be it a specific route ("I want to climb la rambla"), or something more general ("next summer I'm going to céuse and I want to onsight everything". "I want to become an Indian Creek legend". "I want to pull the most spectacular dyno ever seen". "I want to climb a 5.13a that doesn't overhang" etc etc)
Becoming a better climber means sending your projects, or getting closer to them. It's simple.
Then I repeat in a different way :
training to get the established beta (=improving those specific skills and techniques) is often the fastest way.
But sometimes working out your own beta (=using different skills and techniques) might get the job done faster...


(This post was edited by ghisino on Oct 25, 2007, 7:44 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by ghisino () on Oct 25, 2007, 7:44 PM


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