Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [fluxus] Question about weighted pullups: Edit Log




k.l.k


Feb 2, 2008, 4:55 PM

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Registered: May 9, 2007
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Re: [fluxus] Question about weighted pullups
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"Training is very new in the world of climbing. Over the years I've seen only a small number of elite climbers who actually utilized organized training."


I am curious about this claim, and especially about the time period you have in mind. By "organized training," do you mean something akin to the highly specific regimes you've been advocating? Because most of the strongest folks I knew (or knew of) in the 1980s trained very seriously, if in lots of different ways, and many if not most of them had programs pretty firmly grounded in the period professional literature. Supplemental training was more highly regarded then, or at least even the sports-specific folks tended to recommend off-season resistance training and aerobic work, but training was clearly a common focus. I suppose that could be an artifact of the folks I climbed with or heard about, but it seems unlikely.

The Brits knew about systematic training by the late 19th century, and lots of the German and Austrian climbers trained carefully by the early 20th. Gymnastics-- which meant something much broader than what it means today-- was usually at the core, but hangs, pulls, and traverses on finger apparatus also appear to have been used as well.

Or do you simply mean that we didn't have climbing gyms and dedicated artificial walls until quite recently? I know this is something of a tangent to the main skirmish here.

[edited to add the quote]


(This post was edited by k.l.k on Feb 2, 2008, 5:00 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by k.l.k () on Feb 2, 2008, 5:00 PM


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