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Re: [spikeddem] hopefully not Tufa King Much III (equalette-esque anchor):
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j_ung
Jun 4, 2008, 1:37 PM
Views: 15196
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
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The same disclaimers apply.
Normally, I steer clear of these threads beyond a cursory glance. For one reason or another (or many reasons) I'm usually unimpressed with what they produce.
This time began similarly for me. My first thought was that it wouldn't work for three and four-piece anchors. My second thought was that it would be a pain in the ass to tie with equal arms. Well, my first thought was wrong and my second, though right, is easily avoided by pre-tying it before you climb.
I adapted it for more pieces by piggy-backing sliding Xs onto it. I suppose you could also tie limiter knots on those Xs if you want, but I think it's overkill and takes up too much cord.
Here it is adapted for three pieces, with the single arm tied short with an overhand (a clove hitch also works and is more adjustable).
Here it is with four pieces.
An important note is that the unloaded top strands have to remain unloaded for this anchor to equalize in all three configurations. As soon as they pull tight, you reach the limits of your equalization. However, if you use them for a shelf, an interesting thing occurs. The shelf and the master point begin to equalize independently of each other. Here it is with the shelf.
I'd love to see some testing done before I use it instead of my tried and true rope anchors, but still... pretty damned cool.
Lastly, you should change your thread title. 
(This post was edited by j_ung on Jun 4, 2008, 1:39 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by j_ung
() on Jun 4, 2008, 1:39 PM
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