Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [billcoe_] Doubles, rope stretch and a sore tail bone: Edit Log




gblauer
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Aug 17, 2008, 3:43 PM

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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824

Re: [billcoe_] Doubles, rope stretch and a sore tail bone
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"I think this is one of those easily avoided things. The climber should have yelled either "UP ROPE" "WATCH ME" or "TENSION" when they felt the difficulties. Up rope means to take up the slack. A belayer should basically make sure the rope is almost snug, in effect nearly pretensioned. Yelling Tension is the next step up. "


Bill, I was watching the rope, it was very tight, there was no belly, no slack as she was climbing. The belayer wea taking up slack every time she moved and my friend even reported that she felt the tug of the rope on her harness. This accident was about rope stretch. It was actually almost shocking to see how fast she fell, as if she was not on a rope at all.

Contributing factors; Very thin rope (8.5, with 9% elongation), 160 feet of rope out above my friend.


(This post was edited by gblauer on Aug 17, 2008, 3:45 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by gblauer (Moderator) on Aug 17, 2008, 3:45 PM


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