cfnubbler
May 5, 2009, 1:09 PM
Views: 10059
Registered: Oct 31, 2003
Posts: 628
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If all I get, or feel I need, is a 2-piece anchor (typically blocky alpine terrain where a high force fall is unlikely and speed is more of a consideration), I'll typically go with a sliding x on a beefy nylon sling. I'm not comfortable with one of the dental-floss style skinny slings for this application, though I love them for clipping pro.
That said, when relying on 2-piece anchors, I NEVER redirect. Why double the potential force placed on a 2-piece anchor? In such cases, I'm belaying off my harness, or on truly easy terrain where I expect my 2nd to move quickly, using a hip belay. My aim in such situations is to absord as much potential force as I can with my body and sound position, with the anchor merely a back-up.
In fact, I essentially never redirect. I'm hard pressed to think of any situation in which there is not a clearly better choice.
(This post was edited by cfnubbler on May 5, 2009, 1:15 PM)
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